> There are some low voltage tubes around
ALL tubes will run at low plate voltage. Normal "100V-300V" tubes "kink" around 50V and work less-well at low voltage. Some low voltage tubes optimize away a little of this kink, but you can't cheat Mother Nature too far. Many of the "low-voltage" tubes work little or no better than a high voltage tube fed low voltage.
So if heater power is a non-issue, don't limit your choices. The TV Tuner tubes work quite well, for tubes, down to 24V or 12V. (But they all draw about 2 watts of heater power, far more than you can get from Phantom, and only a couple hours on a stack of D-cells.)
If you want to heat the cathode with Phantom, your only choice is battery filament tubes. Probably not the Beach Radio tubes, because these all draw 50mA at 1.4V. Better than wall-plug radio tubes, but still fairly greedy. (Big secret: battery companies promoted and designed battery radios, so there was not much urge to really reduce battery consumption.) Some other mini-tubes were made for Bomb Fuses, and battery size is not an issue in a 500-pound bomb. The Hearing Aid (and Secret Bug) tubes are your best bets.
> 40some volt to 1.2 volt DC-DC, assuming 50% efficiency (typical for a low voltage output - the rectifier losses
Just to blow your mind: there is no NEED to run these filaments on DC. They work fine on AC 50Hz and up, except you get a helofalot of hum. So use a 100KHz oscillator running on the 30 volts, wind a few turns on the core, and feed the filament from that. Stick a cap on the audio output and use a transformer, 100KHz leakage is manageable.
Small detail: many of these battery-filament tubes used DC filament drop as part of the grid-cathode bias, so you may have to add bias. With a 4-tube radio and a common filament battery, this was a pain. With a single tube and a floating filament winding, just center-tap the winding and return to ground via a few-K of resistor.