ForthMonkey
Well-known member
Yes,i checked and it's humming around 100 Hz.So this hum coming from PSU?
By the way it was humming before mod,too.
By the way it was humming before mod,too.
Khron said:Well, i was close - it WAS, after all, the heater supply that was the issue
Khron said:If possible, try to make sure the new cap is rated for 105C. In fact, just to be on the safe side, i'd replace both of them.
Khron said:470uF is about 20 (that's TWENTY) times LESS than 10000uF, isn't it? Do you really think that wouldn't make a difference?
If you had said 4700uF, that would've been a bit more... realistic
http://www.changpuak.ch/electronics/power_supply_design.php
Trafo sec = 8v / 0.5A
Regulation = 10%
Load = 30 ohm (for the worst-case 300mA draw if both 12A_7 heaters are powered)
Storage cap = 470uF / 10000uF / 20000uF (this last one because there are two in your power supply, most likely in parallel)
See if and what differences show up, particularly on the red trace
Khron said:That's kinda why i'm not a big fan of "spoon-feeding" ideas and advice for mods and stuff - it's often important to know the "why"-s behind doing certain things, not just the "because"-s
Or rather, it's kinda like that saying, "Give a man a fish and you will feed him for a day; teach a man to fish, and you've fed him for the rest of his life", or something like that
That, and i'm the skeptical / cynical type ;D But when it comes to cold hard technical facts... No, blind following random internet ideas is not the way, imho
0dbfs said:Good find on the swollen cap and seems like a likely culprit! Gotta wonder why it blew. Can you measure the voltage at and around that node with mic connected just to confirm that it's well rated @ 16V?
Maybe it was previously set to a 120V line and somehow ended up on a 220V line? If so you may want to also check and/or pro-actively swap the B+ filter caps too - since you want to get it working and keep it that way If you're ordering parts that is...
Cheers!
-jb
ForthMonkey said:Changed R7 to 2k2 and increased the level!
Khron said:What brand and/or series are/were those caps? Photos of the markings would help.
Should i check caps when PSU is on? : I don't want to work with on when it's on...Just changing components when it's off.
I ordered 10000uf 16V caps.After replacement i will see result.
0dbfs said:Good find on the swollen cap and seems like a likely culprit! Gotta wonder why it blew. Can you measure the voltage at and around that node with mic connected just to confirm that it's well rated @ 16V?
ForthMonkey said:Xiahui brand and CD110 series i guess.
Tube mics are typically run around 0.6 to 1mA - mostly for noise optimisation, I think. 0.5mA isn't far from there, especially with a slightly under-heated tube.Matador said:I'm not sure I understand why MXL designed around a high transconductance tube, then run it starved at 0.5mA. Especially when you can easily get several milliamps from a passive plate supply. The distortion would be really high especially on hot sources.
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