My first mod (Trion 8000 valve mic)

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Actually by replacing that caps does not change the sounds too much but instead of useing different style of caps it will producing a different feeling of the sounds maybe cleaner or muddier , and I think the 50V could be an issue well just leave it in and try it , worst come to worst the cap might just blow up , I found that the Muilti Layer BC ceremic cap does produce a good result on cleaning up the Harsh in the highs , and I like it very much
also you should replace the Cap (2.2uf 250V ) to the nicest film cap you can find can also try to sub it with a 1uf 250V , and might as well replace all caps with better one that also produce nicer sounding and cleaner effect , but dont forget to replace the TUBE as well , I got 6AK5 , which is smooth
 
Actually by replacing that caps does not change the sounds too much but instead of useing different style of caps it will producing a different feeling of the sounds maybe cleaner or muddier

This is the sort of change that I was hopeing for. I dont want to alter the charicter of the mic I have just felt that it has more to give.


also you should replace the Cap (2.2uf 250V ) to the nicest film cap you can find can also try to sub it with a 1uf 250V

You mentioned this one before but I still cant find it :oops: Please help locate.

As for the 6J1 Valve I just got a SYLVANIA GOLD BRAND 5654 Tube (6AK5 EF95) and a CV4010 (EF95 6AK5) M8100 MULLARD VALVE.

I have yet to try the new glassware as I wanted to get a feel for the new cap with the origional valve first.

Regards,
FTI
 
the 2.2uf is indicated as C2 on the board
and you can take a look at what I did
I am not sure is this right or wrong but hope this could help
the Blue cap is a BC and is 1000nf ? 400V

IMG_0875.jpg

IMG_0876.jpg

IMG_0877.jpg
 
Looking at your work realy makes me feel quite a 'hack'......Hold on, I am :roll:
Nice pics and nice work. How long did it take you to do the work?
Im going to show a friend your mod and see if we can figure it out.
Thankyou for your help and posting the pics, no doubt I will post back after I have had some more use out of my mod.

I just noticed
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=290080691709&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=019

Any opinions?
Edit :oops: Its a .1uf :oops:
FTI
 
I know this is an old thread, but should I post the schematic???  I have a copy of the mic and the power supply.

Does anybody know if this is ok?  Since I got it from CAD :)
 
mista min said:
I know this is an old thread, but should I post the schematic???  I have a copy of the mic and the power supply.

Does anybody know if this is ok?  Since I got it from CAD :)
Please do, or I'll ask CAD for it myself.

Edit: Found it here: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=44060.0
 
Just bought the mic. $200 (+ all the extra to Norway)
First impression is.. very nice :)

Planning to mod later, but will run the mic stock for a period.
 
Correction: Yes you CAN remove the inner mesh. Seems it was just florescent lighting that caused the issue with JJ where it was quickly tested. I could MAKE it buzz a little but I was also able to do it with all my mics when I cracked the gain WAY up. The sound difference with the basket cleared of the extra mesh is very noticeable but you will HAVE to use a pop filter now but the results are worth i.

FYI: ALL the mics I've had modded reside in Nashville under control of Richie Owens. So far EVERYTHING jj audio has done resulted in them becoming "go to mics" and never are put away. The Sterling 77 mods produced the best recorded slide & Dobro to date so said Richie. I mean it was/IS a big deal and happened about 6 weeks ago. They'll be out soon on an upcoming CD plus are being used for any project needing his slide parts. I'll never see those mics again! LOL

The Trion 8000 mod is a thing of beauty and creativity. i don't have a final word on the outcome as it hasn't been called to duty. However from what I have seen I have little doubt of the outcome. That was a serious mod and its time to track vocals so I'll know soon enough.

Sorry about the absence from the forum. A lot is going on as doors opened for me and I ran in. To be truthful about it this happened as a direct result of Jim Jacobson's master skills. If not for him I'd still be trying to find an open door.

END of Update.



On this mic do NOT remove the inner screen on the head basket as it IS needed for shielding.

Also I have one I sent to JJ for a mod that's due back next week. I'll make an A/B recording as I have a pair of stock mics except for a better tube. Should have a great example of what can be done in the right hands. 

Not a DIY project tho. He went all out on this one and says it sounds sweet. Will post a recording asap.
 
psycom said:
On this mic do NOT remove the inner screen on the head basket as it IS needed for shielding.

Also I have one I sent to JJ for a mod that's due back next week. I'll make an A/B recording as I have a pair of stock mics except for a better tube. Should have a great example of what can be done in the right hands. 

Not a DIY project tho. He went all out on this one and says it sounds sweet. Will post a recording asap.
Looking forward to hearing JJ's take on the trion 8000 :)
 
When I look at the schemo (http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=44060.0)
it seems like the C3 1000p/1KV is the most important cap, being directly in the signal path.
Is that right?

Is this the one I could try a paper/oil cap on?
Is 1kV necessarily? As long as it's above 120V, shouldn't it be ok?
 
The Cad Trion 8000 is an interesting mic in that the transformer is directly coupled to the anode and the low side of the transformer is terminated with a 10uf 400v capacitor to ground. There is not the standard coupling capacitor from anode to the transformer that is in most plate driven mic designs.

The 2.2uf 250v capacitor is used in the polarization voltage for the pattern.

The 1000pf 1kv blue capsule to grid coupling capacitor is ceramic. I use Polystyrene

The mod that I did to Psycom's mic was to change the mic to sound like my Akita microphone.

I changed the tube to a 6au6 variant that Sony uses in the C800g.

I  increased the B+ voltage to 225vDC unloaded (160vDC loaded)
.
Added additional filtering for the B+ in the microphone.

Changed the transformer to a transformer used by Sony. That meant removing the transformer can and cutting the PCB to mount the transformer and adding a 1uf  Vishay MKP transformer coupling capacitor.

Rewired the mic with Silver Teflon wire.

Recapped the mic and power supply.

The capsule in the mic sounds very good and does not need to be changed.

By increasing the B+ voltage, the polarization circuit voltage must be adjusted (dropped) so that it gives a max of 120vDC. Once that is done, the backplate voltage can be adjusted to 60vDC by the trimmer pot on the mic.

The finished mic is very clear and detailed, bright but not harsh, with a rich solid bass response.
The tube has a nice mildly compressed sound when pushed. 


8) 8)​




Jim  Jacobsen
JJ Audio
 
Thanks again Jim!

I wonder how easy it would be to put an MK47 in there..

I find the problem with the stock mic is a little unsmooth high end.
 
Sorry its been so long. Busy. Here's whay I can tell you about JJ Audio's work.... impeccable. Also the screen mod din NOT affect the shielding. Opens it up but you MUST use a pop filter but I think it was worth it.

Jim is an artist. I'm totally sold on his work. He's straight forward and easier to work with than Mr. Joly I think. Nothing bad about Mr. Joly other than I never heard back from him after his trip and buying 2 mics. Questions I did ask came back with wrong answers ... like "I donlt know anything about that mic so I'd have to get one an bench test it" which is fine if it wasn;t this one and it was listed on his site as one he'd mod.
 

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