My New 1U GSSL Design (AKA SB4000) RELEASED!!! - GOTO PAGE 9 FOR ORDERING INFO!

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canidoit

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This build looks really tempting ruckus especially how sourcing the parts seems to be an easy process!

I am debating whether I ditch my API 2500 and build me one of these beasts?  ???
 

SSLtech

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Ruckus and Ptownkid,

That's a REALLY great project; well done in making this available to everyone!

For anyone who's interested in an 1176/LA2a style gain-reduction display, the Expat VU meter driver will still work with this version.

Keith
 

Ptownkid

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Oddly enough Keith...I was just thinking about that this morning. I still have 90+ of the VU boards around, maybe I'll grab some extra THAT chips and see if anyone wants them...I'll try it on mine for sure!

I'd like to add a caveat here...all the praise goes to Mike (Ruckus), he's the smart bastard who came up with this version and made a fantastic layout and front panel. I had very little to do with the development until it came to discussing specific parts, and even then, credit still goes to Mike.

Cheers
 

ruckus328

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Actually, the real credit goes to the guys like Jakob, Keith, Harpo, Kingston, etc.  You guys all layed the ground work for this thing, and my hat goes off to all of you.

In any case, thanks for the compliment Keith, the support you guys have shown is a real honor.
 

Ptownkid

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ruckus328 said:
Actually, the real credit goes to the guys like Jakob, Keith, Harpo, Kingston, etc.  You guys all layed the ground work for this thing, and my hat goes off to all of you.

In any case, thanks for the compliment Keith, the support you guys have shown is a real honor.

Quoted for truth!
 

canidoit

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You have a VU meter and a led meter? Can you please explain how they work?

Is this build newbie friendly? With step by step build manual?

How is the calibration process like?
 

ruckus328

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canidoit said:
You have a VU meter and a led meter? Can you please explain how they work?

Is this build newbie friendly? With step by step build manual?

How is the calibration process like?

Canidoit, I posted this in my white Market thread but I'll copy it here as well (should answer most of your questions)

"I am working on assembly and calibration instructions.  Assembly is as straightfroward and easy as it gets and will be fully documented.  It will be available far in advanced before anyone receives the boards.

Calibration is very easy and can be done with your soundcard & RMAA (free).  If you have a true RMS meter, calibration is even easier but it is not required at all.  Calibration process takes about 30 minutes.

I am going through the BOM and triple checking for correctness, it will be posted later this week.  However Ptownkid will be providing component kits for the unit at an amazing price.  It includes everything to build the pcb's, the ribbon cable, connectors, AS WELL as nearly everything you need for the front and rear panel (pushbuttons, toggle switches, LED, power switch, bargraph, xlr's, etc etc.)

The only things not included in the kit that you need to build an entire unit:

-The boards and (Optional) front panel, which are purchased through me
-Case (Can be purchased from parmetal or modushop)
-Power Transformer (Farnell, mouser, digikey, newark, etc)
-IEC Connector and fuse (Farnell, mouser, digikey, newark, etc)
-Knobs (Farnell, mouser, digikey, newark, etc)
-Wire (Farnell, mouser, digikey, newark, etc)
-Meter (Any meter can by used but my front panel is designed for the Sifam AL19 style) (AL19 clone meters can also be purchased by Ptownkid)
-Hardware of your choice for mounting boards, the star ground, etc. (Farnell, mouser, digikey, newark, any hardware store, etc) - Board holes are sized for M4 or 6-32 screws with plenty of clearance for washers, standoffs, etc.

That is absolutely everything you would need to build an entire unit.  I will provide support & recommendations for these items if anyone needs help on what to select."

As far as your questions about the meters:  The bargraph is a VU style scale, full wave peak detection.  It displays eithe In/Out/Left/Right levels.  It is extremely useful as in old versions there was no way to determine how loud of a signal you were putting in/out of the compressor.  I've also found though that my most favorite use for it is being able to quickly and precisely adjust makeup gain.

The analog meter shows your gain reduction.  Cool thing is that you can see both at the same time (Level on the bargraph & Gain reduction on the analog meter).

If you have any other questions, please feel free to email me at [email protected]
 

DanH

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Apr 5, 2010
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Awesome. It would be great if the kit included a BOM / model # info for the parts not included in the kit. I, for one, have done several builds but never had to purchase my own case seperately; I'd want to make sure I get the right one, etc.

Not asking for support at this time, just providing my point. May make it easier for others to enter this build, as well.

Thanks for the hard work!
 

Ptownkid

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To my knowledge, Ruckus is working on the BOM and will post it when it's ready. As for the parts NOT included in the kit, it's only IEC inlet (27.5mm x 31.5mm cutout), transformer 18V-0-18V 35-50VA,  knobs (1/4 shaft), and a 1U rack case (minimum 8" deep, preferably 9"+)
 

evilcat

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ruckus328 said:
The few critical parts as well as stuff not in the kits will have part# specific information on the BOM.

This is too good to be true !  ;)
Ptownkid, the Vu-meter need to be add to your future kit, what about the LED-meter ?

Thanks to you two guys for this awesome project !

Ben
 

Ptownkid

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evilcat said:
ruckus328 said:
The few critical parts as well as stuff not in the kits will have part# specific information on the BOM.

This is too good to be true !  ;)
Ptownkid, the Vu-meter need to be add to your future kit, what about the LED-meter ?

Thanks to you two guys for this awesome project !

Ben

The meter will be available to order along with the parts kit, and the LED meter is included.

Cheers
 

ruckus328

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Actually a 18V-0-18V 25VA should be plenty sufficiant.  I had one in to test but it was either mislabelled or defective because with no load it was only putting out 18V.  I just got my replacement so will be verifying functionality with it tonight.  On paper everything's fine but I'm one of those guys who likes to see it work.

snipsnip - as far as a 15V.  I have not tested it with a 15V, full load unit's pulling about 400mA.  XFMR output voltage needs to be at least 18V or higher to feed those 15V regulators.  You might have enough overhead on your 15V 1.6A.  Can you hook it up and tell me what it's putting out under no load?  Or better yet, if you have one hooked up to a GSSL, turn on everything and see what the voltage is on both rails.

And if you do that, I need to know what "everything" is - ie: turbo, led's, illuminated switches, ssc, etc, etc.
 

sodderboy

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ruckus328 said:
A full assembled unit:

SB4000_Full_Unit.jpg

I just had to bump that beautiful picture!  My roving eye first hit the rainbow ribbon cable, which is all over SSL 4000 651 centre sections.

Truly a Smart Box.
Mike
 

Ptownkid

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Ok, minor delay on the parts kit pre-order...but for good reasons

I need to take a poll regarding the meters, as i had a thought to make them a little more interesting, check the black market for details tomorrow. Also, it looks like I will have the chassis (without front panel) in stock with all rear holes pre-done. ;D

Just need to finalize pricing on all the SB4000 related items and list them at the same time so it makes it easier for everyone.

Cheers
 

skot_e

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Jun 18, 2007
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Ptownkid said:
Also, it looks like I will have the chassis (without front panel) in stock with all rear holes pre-done. ;D

Cheers

Which chasis are you planning to use for this? ie parmetal,etc?

Thanks
 

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