Need Help with V1 of Green Pre??

[matta]

"Your" Lorins are Numbered... Mine aren"t....

Then they are not Lorlins :green:

Lorlin is a BRAND, not a switch type. Often the Taiwanse Alphas are called 'Lorlin' because they are a clone of the UK Brand Lorlin who offer Rotary Switches.

You can post a pick and we can see...

Matt

 

[Minion]

Well then these are Brand name "Lorin" switches but I am sure they serve the same purpose as they are 12 position rotary switches...

Here is a Pic:

Cheers

As you can see this one is one of the Ones I screwed up but was able to salvage....

 

[matta]

Hmmm...

This one doesn't look like it has an end stop? Do the switches stop at a point or rotate 360 degrees?

You need one that has an end stop or make one.

Matt

 

[Minion]

I can rotate it 360 degrees...How would I make an end stop and what purpose would it serve??

I thought each postition of the switch had a different resistance and that controlled the Gain?? If that is so then haveing the switch stop at a certain point doesn"t seem like it would matter because each step on the Switch is independant from the others...Does tham make sence??

Once you got to pit 12 going to pin one would be the same as switching it to any setting, it is just a differant resistance then position on the dial shouldn"t matter...Should it??


ThanXx

 

[matta]

I can rotate it 360 degrees...How would I make an end stop and what purpose would it serve??

I thought each postition of the switch had a different resistance and that controlled the Gain?? If that is so then haveing the switch stop at a certain point doesn"t seem like it would matter because each step on the Switch is independant from the others...Does tham make sence??

Once you got to pit 12 going to pin one would be the same as switching it to any setting, it is just a differant resistance then position on the dial shouldn"t matter...Should it??


ThanXx

Are you asking me or telling me? I already know the answer...

Minion, I and other have gone a long way to helping you along, but please remember that this is DIY and not paint by numbers, you need to use your head on this as well.

There is a lot of info on this, from the Schematic you have ALL the info you need, the stops on the Lorlin and their corresponding resistor values. There are threads in the META about wiring a Lorlin, in fact one I started months ago, which can be found here: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=6242 and a few other threads that deal with Lorlins/Rotaries specific to the Green Pre project.

There is even a thread on how to make an end stop for these open frame switches like you have, as I've just had to make some myself for a pair of Neve's I'm building. It is not Green related, it was posted by another Forum member, I'll give you a clue, it was NY Dave, now go forth and search.

Try and work some of this out for yourself, this is life long investment, not a once off project, at least it is how I, and many other see DIY.

Cheers

Matt

 

[peterc]

Take an indelible felt tip pen & write the positions next to the pins of the switch. This will help with the wiring of the resistors on to the switch.

Peter

 

[matta]

Minion,

Sorry if my post above seem blunt and cold... I'd not had my morning coffee :green:

I was trying to make a point though, and it was this, TAKE IT SLOW! Meaning, don't rush things, work carefully, slowly, and be patient. Double, then triple check your work so when you power up and are done it works first time and you don't spend more time troubleshooting it down the line, it also gives you time to soak up what it is you are actually building, so if things do go wrong down the lien you understand the circuit enough to troubleshoot or repair.

The reason for adding a stopper is that at least then you will know where you are in the cycle and have a reference point. Make a stopper, then you at least know where 1 should be and do EXACTLY what Pete said, use a marker and physically MARK the stops so you know where you are.

Hope that is a little more helpful :thumb:

Cheers

Matt

 

[Minion]

Hi Matt, You might not think so But I read those Posts and have read everything in the Metta"s that I could Find about the green... It is just that I have a hard time understanding this that I read because I am Dyslexic so Pictures allways seem best for me....

I knew these switches would work but the Pictures of the wired up Lorins are Confuseing because of the 2 Resistors in series in the Pics makes everything hard to see properly....

I think I have the Whole Wireing up the Switches figured out accept for one thing that I can not make out from the Pictures and which is Probably what screwed me up before....

I can not see in the Picture if it is the loose end of the 150k resistor(Pin 1) or the 1r5 resistor (Pin 12) that goes to the wire and I am getting conflicting info on what it is ,some Posts say the 150K resistor is "Floating" (I guess that is supposed to mean only one end is soldered to a Pin??) and the other end is connected to the Wire Lead and some Posts seem to say that you connect the wire to the leg of the last resistor which is Pin 12 (Which isn"t Floating? Or is it?? Or maybe I don"t know what Floating is?).....


It might seem that I am asking a lot of Questions but I got 2 Channels allmost completely built before I asked any questions and I etched my own PCB"s and before this I had never done anything like this.....

I think once I get these switches Figured out I won"t need anymore help as I will be allmost Finnished...That is untill i plug everything in and It goes up in smoke...LOL



ThanX guys!!!

 

[peterc]

Try it without the rotary switch plugged in, it will give 3dB of gain IIRC

Peter

 

[Minion]

I won"t be able to power them up till I get a couple more Parts (Am waiting for the BC550C Transistors from "Ptownkid" and the 500R Trimmers and Ferrite beads to show up) so that is why I wanted to get the Switches wired up now so I wouldn"t have to do it later....

Can you just tell me if the Wire goes to the Loose end of the 150K resistor or the non-Loose (Soldered) end of the 1r5 resistor??...

In the Pics it looks like one end of the 1r5 (pin 12) is not soldered to a Pin and is instead soldered to the wire lead But in the Metta You said that it is the 150K resistor (Pin 1) that is "Floating"(I take that to mean that one end is not connected to a pin) and has one end connected to the Wire lead so the Pics seems to say one thing and the Meta seems to say another....

I just need to know this one thing and I am sure I will not need any help untill I fire then thing up when the Parts arrive....

ThanXX

 

[matta]

Well I'm counting on the fact the only thing you will need help with when you power up is to contain your joy with your lovely new hand built mic pres!

Pin 12 is 'floating' for me, seems to work fine. So one leg of the 1R5 resistor will be connected to Pin 12 on the rotary, the other will go to the board, likewise the pole pin will also go to the board.

Simple, wrap this one up, put it on the shelf, have a drink (beer, juice, wine, whatever takes your fancy) and then wait for your other parts to come in :thumb:

Cheers

Matt

 

[Minion]

Thanx a Lot Matt, That clears things up for me....My transistors showed up yesterday so I just have to wait another week for the 500r Trimmers and ferrites to show up and I will be ready to fire them up....

I"m pretty sure I did everything correctly on the Boards so I shouldn"t have too many problems from here on out....

When it is Finnished I and working correctly I will Post some Pics.....


Cheers

 

[Minion]

Hi, I feel sort of stupid for asking this Question as I should have probably known the answer but I don"t so here goes....

I am about to Put my Green into it"s Case and wire up all of the Switches and XLR"s ect but I have run into a small problem...

I don"t know which of the Holes on the PCB are the XLR in"s and XLR Outs and I don"t know what the Pin configuration is...I also do not know what one of the sets of holes is for....

Here is a Pic of the PCB with the Areas Pointed out that I need help with...

I"m sure the answer is an easy one but for the life of me I couldn"t figure it out.....

When I finally get this thing assembled I will post some Pics for you....


ThanX a Lot ....

Cheers

 

[matta]

Hey Minion,

If you think about it a bit it becomes clear. I'll try and show you how I deduced it. Firstly, +48V phantom is applied at mic input to power the mic right? So where are the Phantom Caps and the +48V rail heading? That will show you where the input is. And if you follow it you will see the input is on the left hand side of that drawing, making the right the output.

Also how do you plan to switch gain on the pre? With the Lorlin switch right? So since you can see the plug for the +48V phantom switch and we have established the ins and outs, there is only one plug left.

And since we need to connect the gain switch, well there you have it ;-)

Cheers

Matt

 

[Minion]

OK....I got which one is Input and which one is Output and I know that the other 2 pins are for the Lorin but I still don"t know how to figure out which Pins are which for the input and Output??



Cheers

 

[peterc]

Look at the pins & find out which is the GND pin, they connect together. Then the other 2 are the + & - signal

 

[Minion]

I "Think" Hole "B" is Ground But I don"t know what the Ground Pin is on the XLR?? And that still leaves 2 Holes/Pins and I don"t know what Pin(s) gets The Power (-/+??)??

I can see that 2 of the Holes/Pins get Power but I don"t know the Polarity and what holes on the PCB corespond with what pins on the XLR??

Can someone Please just tell me what Pins of the XLR are the 3 holes for the In and out are?? On the Pic I posted I have them labeled A,B & C can you please just tell me what pins of the XLR are Holes A,B & C are??

Please?? Pretty Please?? with Sugar on Top?? :?

 

[peterc]

OK this is getting silly!

The power connecter is marked, from the top down 48v, -ve, gnd, +ve. What more do you need? This is DIY not spoonfeeding so you'll have to look at some in/out diagrams & use your head a bit. Connect up your XLR's, check the phase, if it is out then change it! Easy!

There are so many questions in this thread that have been answered previously.

Tired of this thread, my last word

 

[Minion]

Why do you have to answer every question with a Riddle??

I don"t have a Problem with the Power or any of that I just don"t know what Holes go to which XLR Pin?? Which is not in any of the documentation I can Find and a search Just brings up conflicting answers, some say that Pin 2 is hot some say that Pin 3 is hot some say that pin 1 is Ground some say that Pin 3 is Ground, and even if I kew what Pin is Hot and which is Cold and which Is Ground I don"t know what the Hot Cold and Ground Pins are on the XLR....

You could have Simply Told me the answer 2 or 3 Posts ago and be done with it But Now I got to sit here with a 98% completed Project That can"t go anywere because you would rather Leave Riddles than answers...

What is "Phaze" and how do I know if it is Wrong??

Your riddles are just Bringing up more Questions...

Do you want me to Give you money or something?? Because I will if it helps me get this project completed....

I am on my Knees begging you to "PLEASE" just give me an answer?? Without the Riddles....

Please??

 

[matta]

Minion,

This is DIY, Do It Yourself....

What you are asking is that everyone gives you a step-by-step guide to assembling this project and that is not the way it was intended.

All the questions you ask are valid and all of the answers lie in this Forum with a bit of deduction it is pretty easy.

A lot of what you said is basic entry level stuff and if you don't have that done trying to understand this project is just not going to happen.

With a more reading and searching you can answer these questions you have asked above, many have been asked time and time again, and the same answer is given so it wastes kind hearted folks time to regurgitate what has been said before.

As to speaking in riddles, we are giving you the clues... YOU need to do the work yourself, hence the DIY part of... well DIY.

I feel that what you have/are doing is like taking a walk, before you have learned to crawl...

If you want a kit with instructions there are MANY in the market with step by step instruction. Here you have been given a project that is cheap, cost effective and sounds great, but you got to put in the work here man, the hardest work or redrawing the schematic and making the PCB layout available, for FREE I might add, has been done by Peter.

Before I stumbled across this Forum a year and a half ago I'd never so much as soldered a cable and now I've built PLENTY a project or racked various modules and am all the better for learning the basic and am still learning.

Our PRR put it best when he said a lot of people can build a car, but not not everyone can fix one (my paraphrase), meaning you can assemble the kit and have it work, but you are no better off understanding how it works.

Matt