Neumann M49 Clone : Build Thread Puck Style (TLM49 Conversion To M49 b-c)

[Moby]

I Want to try and build this one for a long time now, I can't find out on this thread if a TLM49 would be a good option for this?
Other option is buying a Flea body which is almost the same price as a TLM49, but it's the only good quality body I've found this far for this mic.
Any suggestions would be very appreciated, thanks!

I agree about Flea. Best mechanical parts on the market. If you don't mind spending some extra money, that's the way.

 

[gbruler]

Chunger's CU49 is only available in B stock right now, Beesneez doesn't make them for a long time, at least it is not on their site for a long time.
Thought of the TLM49 option to get the capsule, too
Any more suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks

 

[mad.ax]

Looks like even B-Stock are out of stock at Chunger's...

TLM49 option is definitely a good one. You get something that looks like a Neumann, the grill is top notch, it sports a legit Neumann badge, and you also get a capsule... But with only the frond side usable. (the back has no gold on it). When I built a 49 out of a TLM, I sent the one sided K49 to Siegfried Tiersch...

Axel

 

[duantro]

After some discussion, it seems like $25 each for 1, or $20 each for 2 or more, plus shipping would be fair. So probably about $45 shipped for a pair within continental US (or a few bucks more for Priority Mail).

I've already converted my previous drilling guide I designed to a laser burning file, and I'm going to test this out on some acrylic material and see how it goes. I'll share a photo of the results.

EDIT: It looks good.View attachment 92483
The text is a little goofy, I forgot to change one of the engraving settings. Oops. Otherwise, it matches my template that I used on my M49 build perfectly. This looks a LOT better than the one I hand drilled.


Thanks,
Josh

Are the extra holes for turrets or screws to mound Dany's boards? Either way I'd take a set Send me a price for shipping to Kansas City, Missouri.

 

[vinylwall]

After some discussion, it seems like $25 each for 1, or $20 each for 2 or more, plus shipping would be fair. So probably about $45 shipped for a pair within continental US (or a few bucks more for Priority Mail).

I've already converted my previous drilling guide I designed to a laser burning file, and I'm going to test this out on some acrylic material and see how it goes. I'll share a photo of the results.

EDIT: It looks good.View attachment 92483
The text is a little goofy, I forgot to change one of the engraving settings. Oops. Otherwise, it matches my template that I used on my M49 build perfectly. This looks a LOT better than the one I hand drilled.


Thanks,
Josh

I would be interested in buying a couple of these too.

 

[amplexus]

Just finished mine- mostly with some leftovers from around the shop. (I had a 7:1 transformer from AA ordered for a client project that we never ended up using, and an RK47 from a build that's sat on a shelf for a while. Cobbled together a saddle mount tall enough from some boneyard parts). I will probably opt for Dany's M7 at some point. I've wired the pinout to work with the Hamptone VPS1 i use with my C12 clone which works perfectly with the variable pattern switch. (Yes, I know the capsule is a tad dusty....)

It happens that I have a client's 1960 M49 with it's original M7 and 701k in for some service to compare with.


Sounding great! Will try and get it in front of some vocalists and isntruments in the studio and see how it holds up, but initial impressions are that it will compare nicely to my Peluso P49 and it's no slouch against this OG...

Looks like I'm post #666 too... wonder what that portends for my build

 

[Greenie]

Any advise on how to wire a 5840 tube in a M49 tye build, options: 5 points marked A, H+, H-, g and K?

 

[Khron]

Any advise on how to wire a 5840 tube in a M49 tye build, options: 5 points marked A, H+, H-, g and K?

A stands for "Anode", H+/- are the two ends of the heater (polarity-agnostic, you can wire them either way), G stands for "Gate", K stands for "Kathode". E

http://www.audiodesignguide.com/New2A3/ETF06TS.pdf

 

[Greenie]

A stands for "Anode", H+/- are the two ends of the heater (polarity-agnostic, you can wire them either way), G stands for "Gate", K stands for "Kathode". E

http://www.audiodesignguide.com/New2A3/ETF06TS.pdf

So, how to connect the other free pins?

 

[Khron]

Have you even opened the pdf i linked? Perhaps i should've also attached a link to a 5840 datasheet as well, though...

http://www.elenota.pl/datasheet_download/157359/5840

 

[Khron]

And a quick google search (note the search terms):

https://www.google.com/search?q=m49...rpBOgQ_AUoAnoECAEQAg&biw=412&bih=647&dpr=2.63

 

[Greenie]

And a quick google search (note the search terms):

https://www.google.com/search?q=m49...rpBOgQ_AUoAnoECAEQAg&biw=412&bih=647&dpr=2.63

You're a nice guy, I can hear it.

 

[Khron]

You're a nice guy, I can hear it.

Sarcasm noted, and i'm fully aware i might've come across a bit... brash(?).

I promise i don't mean to be "gatekeeping" or anything, but could there be a tiny chance you might've potentially bitten off just a smidge more than you can chew, at this moment?

And a quick google search (note the search terms):

https://www.google.com/search?q=m49...rpBOgQ_AUoAnoECAEQAg&biw=412&bih=647&dpr=2.63

First result here is an M49 schematic employing a 5840, straight from Tab-Funkenwerk, right?

Have you even opened the pdf i linked? Perhaps i should've also attached a link to a 5840 datasheet as well, though...

http://www.elenota.pl/datasheet_download/157359/5840

Datasheet linked here, i would hope, quite clearly shows which pins connect to which element of the tube - can we agree on that too?

My apologies if i've offered you all the information you could need, and only left the "put two and two together" part to you.

https://sound-au.com/valves/index.html

 

[Greenie]

Sarcasm noted, and i'm fully aware i might've come across a bit... brash(?).

I promise i don't mean to be "gatekeeping" or anything, but could there be a tiny chance you might've potentially bitten off just a smidge more than you can chew, at this moment?



First result here is an M49 schematic employing a 5840, straight from Tab-Funkenwerk, right?



Datasheet linked here, i would hope, quite clearly shows which pins connect to which element of the tube - can we agree on that too?

My apologies if i've offered you all the information you could need, and only left the "put two and two together" part to you.

https://sound-au.com/valves/index.html

These forums are very helful for people like me, beginners in the mic buisness. Most people ar very kind and helpful. So if you know what wires to omit or doubleconnect, why not just say so. If I wanted to read pages of pdf's I would have, but it's timeconsumming, and if I did, then I wouldn't be here, would I?

 

[Moby]

These forums are very helful for people like me, beginners in the mic buisness. Most people ar very kind and helpful. So if you know what wires to omit or doubleconnect, why not just say so. If I wanted to read pages of pdf's I would have, but it's timeconsumming, and if I did, then I wouldn't be here, would I?

DIY is time consuming. Generally. We all do the google search when we need some datasheet or info about the parts. Nothing weird.

 

[Khron]

Maybe i'm the weird one, but i'm more of the "teach a man to fish"-type person. A tool is more versatile and more useful in the long run, than any sort of instant / momentary solution... Or isn't it?

 

[Greenie]

DIY is time consuming. Generally. We all do the google search when we need some datasheet or info about the parts. Nothing weird.

We all do that, most of the info I of stuff have built are from internet. But the good thing about this forum and others is that much of the DIY stuff differes in many ways, therefore it's sometimes assuring to be able to ask people who, presumably, know better than you. If you know the answer, answer it. Why not?

 

[Moby]

We all do that, most of the info I of stuff have built are from internet. But the good thing about this forum and others is that much of the DIY stuff differes in many ways, therefore it's sometimes assuring to be able to ask people who, presumably, know better than you. If you know the answer, answer it. Why not?

We all do that, most of the info I of stuff have built are from internet. But the good thing about this forum and others is that much of the DIY stuff differes in many ways, therefore it's sometimes assuring to be able to ask people who, presumably, know better than you. If you know the answer, answer it. Why not?

Ok, true, some help is always welcome. Do search "M49 5840 connection" or "5840 as triode".

 

[Greenie]

Ok, true, some help is always welcome. Do search "M49 5840 connection" or "5840 as triode".

Thanks.

 

[doqmemory]

Any advise on how to wire a 5840 tube in a M49 tye build, options: 5 points marked A, H+, H-, g and K?

See post #1, the answer is right there.

For Converting the 5840 Tube to a Triode Tie pin 7-5 Togheter Do not use Pin 4 or Pin 8

5840 Tube Datasheet https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/58d1402a05413.pdf