(newbie) Ordering Parts

[Flatpicker]

[quote author="kungfugeek"]
How do I tell what the lead space is? 2.5mm/5mm etc... I don't see this spec on Mouser or Digikey?...[/quote]Huh? The cap's size and lead spacing is listed in both catalogs right out from the part value - look again. :grin:

 

[pmroz]

... more newbie question.. keep 'em all on same thread...
do you guys have problems using axial caps, and bending a lead over, for radial spots? if the footprint will allow? does the exposed lead cause problems? thanks

 

[OddHarmonic]

Hey all, I've got some Green Pre v14 PCBs on order from Peter, and I'm looking for an updated Bill of Materials so I can begin getting the parts together. Anyone got one handy??

Thanks!
Andrew

 

[tubejay]

[quote author="pmroz"]... more newbie question.. keep 'em all on same thread...
do you guys have problems using axial caps, and bending a lead over, for radial spots? if the footprint will allow? does the exposed lead cause problems? thanks[/quote]

Shouldn't cause a problem, but I would put some heat shrink on the legs so you don't touch them or short them out.

 

[gar381]

HI GUYS AND GALS

I have V14 green pre boards on order. Does anyone have a parts list
they can email me so I can get a jump on things?

Thanks

Gary

 

[asm]

[quote author="radiance"][quote author="kungfugeek"]
Is there somewhere I can see part cross referances? I.E. 1nf = .001uf?

KFG[/quote]

microFarads (µF) nanoFarads (nF) picoFarads (pF)
0.000001µF = 0.001nF = 1pF
0.00001µF = 0.01nF = 10pF
0.0001µF = 0.1nF = 100pF
0.001µF = 1nF = 1000pF
0.01µF = 10nF = 10,000pF
0.1µF = 100nF = 100,000pF
1µF = 1000nF> = 1,000,000pF
10µF = 10,000nF = 10,000,000pF
100µF = 100,000nF = 100,000,000pF[/quote]

hey, heres a good PDF i ran across the other day:

http://www.em.avnet.com/ctf_shared/pgw/df2df2usa/Ceramic%20Cap%20Codes.pdf

good poster to print out and hang over the bench
:thumb:

 

[kungfugeek]

Anyone happen to have a Digikey, Mouser or similar parts list for the v14 PCB by any chance? I have had these PCB's for a few months now and really wanna build them! I have tried putting together a public Digikey list so I could post here for others, but I just can never find all the parts needed, and don't really know what to look for

Thanks,
KFG

P.S. I can offer ice cream to anyone willing to help!

 

[josan]

If you make an order with Mouser they send you a catalogue and then another and then another. This is priceless as the catalogue has a lot of specs such as lead spacing etc . It is a good way to introduce yourself to the concept of electronic parts and ordering without having to surf. I am lucky that I have an electronics supplier within an hours drive. I can get about 90% of what I need there or right next door (lucky two electronics stores side by side ) but the other ten percent takes 90 % of the time to find. If you look at the catalogues you find what's available from Mouser so you can then
focus on what other suppliers offer. It's frustrating at times but you get the hang of it. You need a few different suppliers to do the green pre though.

 

[clintrubber]

from Al:

Ceramic will work.

If anyone happened to do multiple versions,
any difference noticable between polystyrene or ceramic (NPO/COG) for the small caps ?
It'd be hard to tell I guess.

BTW&FWIW, what did the original use ?

Regards,

Peter

 

[Sammas]

great thread... would be cool to add it to the 101 meta



Now my question. I read not long ago on the forums a post that listed cap types from best to worst for audio applications. I tried searching for it but couldn't find it, i think i might have stumbled on it while searching for something unrelated or i actually found it a month ago (time goes quick don'cha know)

Could someone post it again? I think maybe there was tantalum's at the top and ceramics at the bottom but whats in the middle i have no clue.

 

[Guest]

[quote author="Sammas"]great thread... would be cool to add it to the 101 meta



Now my question. I read not long ago on the forums a post that listed cap types from best to worst for audio applications. I tried searching for it but couldn't find it, i think i might have stumbled on it while searching for something unrelated or i actually found it a month ago (time goes quick don'cha know)

Could someone post it again? I think maybe there was tantalum's at the top and ceramics at the bottom but whats in the middle i have no clue.[/quote]
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=7748&highlight=capacitors

 

[Sammas]

:shock: how'd i miss that? i searched for "capacitor"... maybe it needed the plural.


Thank you very much though! :thumb: :guinness: :guinness:

I'll print it off so it aint getting lost again.

 

[matta]

If anyone happened to do multiple versions,
any difference noticable between polystyrene or ceramic (NPO/COG) for the small caps ?
It'd be hard to tell I guess.

BTW&FWIW, what did the original use ?

Regards,

Peter

Hi Peter,

I wondered the exact same question and posed it to Peter C yesterday as I
noticed on the Green he has on his site has polys for the 22pF?s but on a
prototype of his he used Ceramics. I recently built another and
used ceramics and wondered if they sounded different to which he responded
that it wasn?t noticeably different.

I did however notice that using WIMA MKS 2 (Metalized Polyester) series for the .1uF caps in place
of the STI (Polyester) ones I?d used the prototype did yield a ?clearer? more ?open ?
sound. I know this might sound strange, but it is def. noticeable.

Cheers

Matt

 

[clintrubber]

I wondered the exact same question and posed it to Peter C yesterday as I
noticed on the Green he has on his site has polys for the 22pF?s but on a
prototype of his he used Ceramics. I recently built another and
used ceramics and wondered if they sounded different to which he responded
that it wasn?t noticeably different.

Hi Matt,

I only saw the polystyrenes in Peter C's info-pics but based on the JHardy-info on NPO-COG-ceramics I decided to go for those little black-top ceramics. I mean, spending a bit on those polystyrenes is OK, but at over an EU a piece, the difference in price between polystyrene & ceramics amounts to another Green unit like this

and that's about my critical limit :wink:

I did however notice that using WIMA MKS 2 (Metalized Polyester) series for the .1uF caps in place
of the STI (Polyester) ones I?d used the prototype did yield a ?clearer? more ?open ?
sound. I know this might sound strange, but it is def. noticeable.

Hmm, those elco-bypasses ? Remarkably ! Maybe the interaction with the electrolytic ? (that's a vague assumption however).


Regards,

Peter

 

[Guest]

Something I missed... and picked up from another forum
There have been mentions of it all over this forum by the "old timers" - but I missed the connection...
Mylar is a trade name for Polyester film

 

[T-Beam]

A couple of nights ago I had a dream.... I dreamt that someone, in a forum, went thru the part list of Green Pre:s capacitors and told me exactly what capacitors to buy. Even partnumber and where to buy it, and it was the necessary quality needed but not more expensive then it had to be. The perfect combination of price and quality AND it everyone agreed that it was so.

Propably a sign of my last evenings of searching for capacitors

I still wish it was for real.....

 

[matta]

Hi Peter,

So how many other Green things do you plan to drink, I mean build ;-)

Yip the WIMA's make an audible difference. The only difference between this proto and my new one are those caps, all the other parts are the same. I'm not saying it makes a HUGE difference, they pres sound very similar there is just a little more air and openness in the WIMA one versus the non WIMA one. I assume it does have something to do with the interaction with the Electro's and they are strapped across them in the cct. Maybe someone with a bit more knowledge could share more.

Cheers

Matt

 

[clintrubber]

So how many other Green things do you plan to drink, I mean build ;-)

All Green items here are about finished, so I'll need to start using the first one and get a new one for the other one :wink:

 

[kato]

T-Beam, your dream has come true...

PTownKid from Canada has taken the tedium out of Green part sourcing.
Celebrate!
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=7510&sid=8d3db54e32ba7cd4a96d63a83cbbb4a5

 

[T-Beam]

[quote author="kato"]T-Beam, your dream has come true...

PTownKid from Canada has taken the tedium out of Green part sourcing.
Celebrate!
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=7510&sid=8d3db54e32ba7cd4a96d63a83cbbb4a5[/quote]
Thanks for you?re trying to cheer me up Kato...but I'm already in contact with him about it, even before I wrote about "my dream". In our own DIY-forum in Sweden we are four guys who are going to build a Green (14 channel kits all together). Therefore I have taken the role to look for parts and prices here in Sweden, easier shipment, maybe a little cheaper and we can choose more in brand of the parts etc. BUT that is (and was when I wrote the post too) the hardest part of all the work, probably if one's not that good in what parts to use, brand, quality v. price and so on. I have spent many hours in front of local and European dealer?s sites to look for parts. It's no problem to find the parts, it is to choose from the big variety of the different parts. And I have not been lazy reading this forum up and down for all help there of the huge knowledge in this subject.

I am probably too ambitious in finding the best parts for the best price but I will try anyway. Therefore my next post in this thread is a lot of questions in the choosing of parts, hoping that someone have a lot of patience with me.