![[silent:arts]](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/groupdiy/data/avatars/m/0/172.jpg?1620371656){kind=avatar}
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
yes, but don't use the 40V version. all over 80V are fine.Ptownkid said:
official GDIY51PSU Help & Support Thread
- Thread starter [silent:arts]
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Ptownkid
Well-known member
It will be 100V. SO I can't be the only one who can't figure this out...what is the case type and specs of the 4 other regs?
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
Ptownkid
Well-known member
It appears that on digikey's site, they call the package GBJ.
So what do we need in terms of peak reverse voltage and current?
So what do we need in terms of peak reverse voltage and current?
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
I use B80C 7000-4000
Ptownkid
Well-known member
200V 6A is cool then?
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
sure. and with the over sizing we want to keep it cool 8)
sahib
Well-known member
Plenty.
Ptownkid
Well-known member
Sorry for the dumb questions...rectifiers have always stumped me...
sahib
Well-known member
Using higher current rating does not hurt. They don't particularly cost much. Besides, you have 10,000uF reservoir cap there to charge. And on initial charge it puts a lot of stress to the rectifiers and having some headroom is a good practice.
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
Cemal, I hope it is ok posting your great mounting idea 8)
ultra-alex
Well-known member
great idea. cemal, do have any L-brackets left? i´d like one too...
cheers, alex
cheers, alex
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
SK-104-38.1RedNoise said:
me too ;D ;D ;Dultra-alex said:
Ptownkid
Well-known member
As long as it's for a to-220, and fits in a 2u chassis, and has the pcb posts 1 inch (24.5mm) apart, you're golden.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HS346-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HS346-ND
Ptownkid
Well-known member
I love cemal's heatsink idea...but I want to point this out for those who may over look it...THERE HAS TO BE AN INSULATOR BETWEEN YOUR REGS AND THE HEATSINK/CHASSIS!!!
[silent:arts]
Well-known member
unless you like smokePtownkid said:
yes, this is right, the regulators have to be mount insulated, thanks for pointing this out
sahib
Well-known member
[silent:arts] said:
Volker, of course no problem.
I have just used whatever that was lying about at the workshop. I used an L section steel profile and got it plated but the actual production is going to be aluminium profile.
Finned heatsink is the same. I had a big chunk that came from a power amp. I split in two. I have another one. For production I'll order soemthing already cut to size.
Even the heatsink for the phantom reg is from my junk box. Over the years I parted out loads of switching PSUs which are great resources for heatsinks.
I will be ordering the profiles next week and hopefully I'll run a batch of 50 in a week to ten days.
Good point from Ptownkid regarding the insulators for the regulators. I have used silicon sheet type for the prototype, but if you use mica make sure you have heat transfer compound applied.
To take the photographs I just stuck it into a 2U case that came from a power amp. There were screws at the bottom and that is why the module looks standing up. But in reality there are four M3 taps at the bottom for mounting for flush mounting. Same on the side where the regulators are mounted. Obviously if you apply some heat transfer compound between the bracket and the case further heat dissipation into the case is also achieved. But using a finned heatsink is a neater application, though at an additional cost.
