The plug in corner joiners use friction to hold together - once the plate is mounted and sprung the whole thing locks itself together. To build a frame that won’t twist at the junctions you can use flat steel corner gussets bolted to the box frame. I’ve used this method to build lighting frames and also to make a frame for a large projector screen from anodized aluminium box section 40mm x 40mm x 1.5mm. It’s very strong and as the reverb plate is mounted at the corners anyway virtually there is no angular load - all the load tends to compress the frame longitudinally.
Most large hardware stores sell box section tubing and all of the various adapters - my local hardware sells all of that plus metal sheet as well and it’s all dirt cheap. For a larger unit 2000 x 1000 you’d need to use stronger framing and steel box tubing may be necessary or use rectangular section, but for the smaller plate square box section aluminium would work fine and it’s very light.
Examples of different types of corner connectors:
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Most sheet metal suppliers will guillotine your sheet to size - air conditioning sheet metal fabricators is where I’ve purchased cut to size gal steel sheet in the past as they deal in small quantities.
If you don’t want to used galvanised steel then you will probably need to rust protect your steel plate
What I’m trying to say is that if you have to buy a 2000 x 1000 sheet because that’s the only size they will sell to you for a special order and you want to make a 1000 x 500 reverb plate then if they guillotine it to size you end up with 4 pieces 1000 x 500 (or 2 pieces 1000 x 500 and 1 piece 1000 x 1000), one you use and the others are spare.