In most low-level vacuum tube circuits: your currents are low, your impedances are high, your runs are short. The audio impedance of any hookup wire fat enough to handle is very-very-very low. You can take great liberties.
As you know from gitar amps, many different schemes work. Even when there are real theoretical objections. You can even run rectifier pulses through 4 inches of chassis, double-ground your system at input jack and PT bolt, ground-loop the whole pot panel, and the buzz can be acceptable. Some well-regarded gitar amp layouts make me cringe, yet when you work out the consequences, the crap is negligible.
A prime "problem" in tube work is that power return and signal reference are the same place. (In op-amps, they may be separate.) So it is a good thing that any practical wire is far lower impedance than the tube.
Unlike a gitar amp, a mike amp usually has a transformer input. We may treat the external line as "hostile", take XLR ground and transformer case to our overall garbage shield (case). Begin our work at the transformer secondary, which often may be returned to our convenience.
Just run a bus. Start at input transformer secondary. Then take your first tube cathode. Then your first-stage power filter cap return. Then pot returns, cap returns, and more cathodes in the order of signal flow, to your output stage, and then to the power supply negative.
If your output is via a transformer, and there are no intermediate in/out taps, then there is no strong reason to have your amplifier ground bus tied to chassis. Many rack-amps have been built with all internal circuitry floating from chassis. A link allows the guts to be tied to chassis for simple systems, or floated and tied to an isolated studio ground bus for more complex systems.
However, unless you already know you need floating guts, I would tie the input end of the bus to chassis.
Unless you use a main filter cap which solders to chassis. Then your buss must go to chassis at the power supply end, and the input end left off-chassis.
If your output is not transformer isolated, then you will probably want to tie your 1/4" output jack to chassis for safety, and let the input end of the bus float.
Star systems have uses. But in a string of tube stages, it is not important that they all reference the same point. It is important that each stage references the stages before and after it. A bus is natural. A star just adds 0.01 ohm under each stage, and risks injecting large output signals directly to sensitive input areas.
Svart's RF work is different. Audio is mostly under 100KHz and often over 1K impedance. In this world, any happy hookup wire has "zero" impedance, near-enough to swallow most sins. Svart's work is above 1MHz, and often below 100 ohms. In this range, current does not flow "in" a wire, it flows only "on" the surface. The inside of a round wire is a total waste. What matters is skin area. Techniques include silver-plating (small but sometimes useful improvement on 10MC tank coils), tubing, flat bars (very common in power distribution, both for skin effect and for heat dissipation), and PCB layers supplemented by case-metal. These are essential for low impedances and high frequencies, and may be applicable to transistor audio, but are not needed and usually "wrong thinking" in tube audio.
And do NOT over-think in advance. Nor lock your grounding in stone. Build the stages. Tack the grounding together. Try it. Be prepared to experiment. However if you have a holistic plan, then any trouble will usually be one misunderstood connection.