They can, in the sense that any circuit can with some external modification. The ThatCorp chips need a low impedance at the reference pins, so you would need a buffer after the resistor divider that generates the mid-supply voltage. You would also have to consider what that does to the input and output voltages, and check where you have coupling caps. That turns into a system consideration, to be able to use anywhere with any other device you would probably need caps on the input and output.
If you will only ever use it in one system, you could for instance leave off output caps if you know the next device has input caps, or leave off input caps if you know the device which is driving it already has output caps. Slightly dangerous, because in a couple of years when you have forgotten all that, you connect to different devices then have to figure out why everything is suddenly distorted when it was working fine the day before.
Sure, but that only helps if you have some power supply you were already set on using. Otherwise you are paying for a wall adapter, then another $12 for the DC-DC converter, plus a couple of dollars for some capacitors, and you still have to wire it all up, compared to just spending $15 on a bipolar wall adapter.
If you are going to that much trouble you might as well just skip all the hassle with switching regulators, get one of these 12V AC adapters, and build a half-wave rectified supply with a couple of 12V regulators:
12V AC adapter for Australia
Couple of diodes for half-wave rectification plus some electrolytic caps will get you +/- 17V, 78M12 and 79M12 regulators, couple more caps and done.
You really need to decide what you want to do. You started out asking for a phantom powered circuit, which is a few mA at most, and are now up to a stereo circuit with additional input and output buffers, which has nearly tripled the current requirement per channel, and now double that for stereo.
The VERY basics of any project is to first sit down and decide what you want, then go through all of the datasheets and add up the current required for each part of the circuit, then add in the current required to drive the next downstream stage, and add all that up to get your total power requirements.
THEN you start looking for a power supply solution after you know the voltage and current requirements for your project.
So take a few minutes and think about what you really need. Do you need input and or output level controls? Is that going to require any additional buffering? You started out with a simple unbalanced circuit, and now have balanced input and output buffers. Most unbalanced gear uses different operating levels that balanced gear. Have you considered what you want your default input and output nominal levels and headroom to be? Where in that nominal input/output range do you want noticeable colouration/distortion to kick in? Do you want to control that strictly with the send levels of the upstream device and the input attenuation/make-up gain on the downstream device? Or do you want a gain control before and after the colour circuit so you can control the distortion level independent of the operating audio levels (kind of like the gain and master volume controls on a guitar amp)?
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