SB4000 Support Thread

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kazper said:
Hopefully this isn't a one time only deal, I'm interested but want to kill some of the projects lying around here.

Ohh no chance, this puppy's here to stay.  2nd round of boards being ordered this weekend.  Panels already in process.

About 75% of the kits/boards from round 1 have now shipped.  Check the white market thread for your status.  Those that haven't shipped yet will be going out Monday & Tuesday.
 
Hi

When building one of these for UK voltage (230V AC 50Hz) do I need to use a different transformer then the one specified in the BOM?  If so could you either suggest one or list the critical specifications?  Do any other parts need changed vs the BOM?

Apologies if these are silly questions!

Thanks
Ali
 
_ali said:
Hi

When building one of these for UK voltage (230V AC 50Hz) do I need to use a different transformer then the one specified in the BOM?  If so could you either suggest one or list the critical specifications?  Do any other parts need changed vs the BOM?

Apologies if these are silly questions!

Thanks
Ali

Nope, you don't need to use a different transformer, they can be wired for either 115 or 230.  Instructions will come with the transformer to tell you how to wire it for 230.  Everything else on the BOM will be the same, nothing needs to change for 230.
 
Great - thanks for the quick and helpful response.  I look forward to receiving the bits and getting started with the build :)

Cheers
Ali
 
I'm just about done with the build manual.  Another day or 2.  I still need to do the calibration procedure but will amend the build doc with calibration info once it is done.  

In the meantime, if anyone's trying to start, there's no issues with starting with resistors, diodes, ceramic/film/tantalum caps, connectors, IC sockets.  Just the resistors will take 4-6 hours.  Be sure to check values of each resistor before installing - it will save you alot of headaches later.  All the resistor values on the board are for THAT2181A's.  If you are using different VCA's see the table on the schematic for the correct values.  

However do not install relays, trimmers, any of the lorlin switches/pots, or anything in the bargraph section on the control board (there is an assembly method to the bargraph).  The build manual will explain why.
 
However do not install relays, trimmers, any of the lorlin switches/pots, or anything in the bargraph section on the control board (there is an assembly method to the bargraph).  The build manual will explain why.
I built up the whole thing last week when I got it. I think I understand why the specific instructions for switches, bargraph etc.. so hopefully I'll be ok.
 
azone said:
However do not install relays, trimmers, any of the lorlin switches/pots, or anything in the bargraph section on the control board (there is an assembly method to the bargraph).  The build manual will explain why.
I built up the whole thing last week when I got it. I think I understand why the specific instructions for switches, bargraph etc.. so hopefully I'll be ok.

Ohh really?  Did you wire it up yet?  Well the switches are best to mount them to the panel and then tack them onto the control board (just solder 2 or 3 pads per switch so they don't move), then remove it and solder all the rest of the pads then.  As far as the bargraph, as I'm sure you can see it's double sided in that section and there's definately an assembly method.  You want to put the bargraph on the SIP sockets specified, place it on the control board, then mount the control board to the front panel.  Then hold the bargraph flush up to the panel (There's a little jiggle) and tack a couple pads on the SIP sockets so it doesn't move.  It might take a few trys and a few minutes to get it lined up perfect (really helps to have someone hold it in place why you solder).  A little more detail and pics are in the build manual if anyone's not clear with what I mean.
 
Preliminary build manual posted on first post.  Drill templates/chassis mod drawings that are referenced in the manual will be posted tomorrow.  Calibration procedure almost done.  For now it should be plenty of info to get some people rolling though.
 
hello! great work ! i want one soon but i want to know whats the measured noise floor in dbU?

cheers!
 
Hey!

I have two questions regarding the table about the changes you would have to make for the different VCA's (as seen in the schematic).

The table shows R132, but this resistor can't be found elsewhere in the schematic. I guess this has to be a trimpot, but I don't know which one...

Also, are there particular things to keep in mind if you would use different VCA's in the audio/sidechain path, regarding to this table? E.G. the changes are very easy to implement if you would have identical VCA's all over, but what if you would use 2180A for audio and 2180B for sidechain?

Thanks in advance!
 
tzman said:
Hey!

I have two questions regarding the table about the changes you would have to make for the different VCA's (as seen in the schematic).

The table shows R132, but this resistor can't be found elsewhere in the schematic. I guess this has to be a trimpot, but I don't know which one...

Also, are there particular things to keep in mind if you would use different VCA's in the audio/sidechain path, regarding to this table? E.G. the changes are very easy to implement if you would have identical VCA's all over, but what if you would use 2180A for audio and 2180B for sidechain?

Thanks in advance!

Sorry, R132 is a typo - it should read VR16 (it's the ratio calibration pot by the TL072).  I will correct the schematic this afternoon.

Sidechain VCA's - irrelevant to the table.  No adjustments to make for different VCA's in the sidechain and the sidechain VCA's do not have to be the same as you're using for the audio VCA's - they can be THAT2180 or 2181 A, B, or C, doesn't matter, use whatever is cheapest there.
 
Few quick Q's: What all is included with ptownkid's component kit (what's left for us to self-source)?

From what I gather the PCB's and panels are shipping?  What about the component kits?  ETA?

I'm not even done with my 1176's yet and I'm already itching for more fantastic compressors  ;D  I also pre-paid for the SA-3A.  Talk about diving in head first!  :eek:


Thanks  8)
 
I reckon you need to ask ptown about his kits in his thread in the white market. I dont think its got all that much to do with rukus.

The same white market thread also shows you explicitly what is not included.

Jake
 
I'll check it out.  I figured Rukus and ptown were like 2 peas in a pod :)  I guess they do their own thang.  I'm a Prodigy noob - sorry about that!  I also tend to miss tidbits of info in these long threads - so I generally like to do a "reset" (TV production term ;) ) to make sure I didn't miss anything before shelling out the cash...

Thanks for the info  8)
 
Nope, we are two peas in a pod when it comes to this project and you are free to post in either of our threads. There is a pdf bom at the start of the thread and it does outline which parts are included in the kit.

Please note that some of the parts do not exactly correspond with the suggested part number on Ruckus' BOM, but all subs were approved by Ruckus as acceptable replacements. There were some things that were backordered with lengthy lead times so substitutions were made. However all substitutions were carefully selected.
 
Thank you sir!  I'll take a peek and see if I can make heads or tails of what I'll need to self-source.

You, Ruckus, and Mike (Hairball) are class acts all the way  :-*
 
Mike,

J19 on the pcb - next to {R T1 Cal} pot - is not listed on the BOM (nor J18 for that matter but I cant see it on the pcb). Is this in use? Looks like a 3 pin header if it is needed.

Thx
 
skot_e said:
Mike,

J19 on the pcb - next to {R T1 Cal} pot - is not listed on the BOM (nor J18 for that matter but I cant see it on the pcb). Is this in use? Looks like a 3 pin header if it is needed.

Thx

J19 - ignore.  It's for supplying power to external CnB board.

J18 - look again, it's there:)  It's the ribbon cable connector.
 

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