should i dare wire/connect my vintage Neve 1272`s myself? or go to pro?

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okay found this in the forum

nevewire.gif


i can see that on my 1272 the 3 Gain wire are connected the same way... all others are conected beyond my understanding as i cant follow where each of them go

what bothers me is... there are some difference to who mine is wired!

the "L" for the 5k pot for example there is allready another connection on mine.... same goes for the "P"

while the graphic says on "R" there is a 470 uF capacitor connected, there is NOTHING connected on my unit :/

i am confused
 
finished recapp  8) now i am a DIY`ler do i get a medal?  :p

now to the next job

need some input por favor

and thanks Pete for the help so far
 
ion said:
okay found this in the forum

nevewire.gif


i can see that on my 1272 the 3 Gain wire are connected the same way... all others are conected beyond my understanding as i cant follow where each of them go

what bothers me is... there are some difference to who mine is wired!

the "L" for the 5k pot for example there is allready another connection on mine.... same goes for the "P"

while the graphic says on "R" there is a 470 uF capacitor connected, there is NOTHING connected on my unit :/

i am confused

That's the wiring diagram for the B283AV card contained inside of the 1272 line amp. The pinout is totally different on the back of the 1272 module.

Mark
 
i know i know i know.... but its relevant for the 5k pot (TRIM POTENTIOMETER) correct?
 
uhm well.... in front close to the 2nd pot hole there are 2 470uF capacitors...

are those the ones that i should remove in order to build in the 5k pot?

API (who sold these to me) told me to remove the 5k "resistor" and use the 5k pot there... but right now i am not so sure how to do all that and he isnt available for some time...

i will go to an electric shop and get 2 5k pots tomorrow.... i hope any will do as long as the shaft fits my neve knobs


i hope someone can tell me how to wire the pot`s

there is a red wire going to the one side of both (per module!) resistors and another blue one on the other side... i assume i have to connect those somehow to the potentiometer?

do i have to change ANYTHING on that inside-connecore shown on the graphic?
 
am i asking somewhat the wrong question or why is it hardly anybody really really want to help? is it me?  :-\


edit: hmmmmm very weird i jsut found out that the one 1272 modules has 2 470uF in front and teh other one 1000uF i have no clue why`s that
 
okay i found somethign i one of the mails i had with the seller (API)

"Then you will have to ad a 5k pot (can be bought at every electronics shop) which is inserted between two points on the back connector, this acts as a master volume or fader.
If there is no pot connected there is a 5k resistor installed in this place to load the output transformer right."

back connector doesnt mean the inside connector on the graphic above but the rear connector, right?

well... now just need someone who knows, to tell me how to wire the pot :-\
 
thanks
i will give that info to my tech to translate it for me... as i really dont undersatdn those...

allready found out that on the 5k pots (wich i have here now) the first (left) of 3 soldering points is input, middle is output and right sleeve


do i have to connect those 3 with extra wires to the inside connector accoring to the graphic (3 blue wires for 5k pot) ?


PLEASE someone tell me, what about the 2 470uF and on the other morule the 1000uF capacitor... to my understanding those need to be removed when building in the 5k pot YES?

there is a blue and a red wire going into the 1000uF do i use those 2 wires for the 5k pot ???
 
is there any premade complete PSU that i can use for my 2 1272 modules



i am happy to do the full 1272 wiring myself now.... fine

but i really really cant build a PSU as well + the JLM
"audio trex" if that is the model name is not really practical for my case, as i need a external psu


can i somewhere order such a +24V PSU plug&play without paying 100,- eur for it?  ::)
 
hmmm



PLEASE SOMEONE APPROVE:

according to my tech i will leave the 5k`s inside and wire the 5k pot`s directly to the inner connector ( i know how by now)

but why did API tell me to remove teh 5k cap`s?

 
Ion, without meaning to be rude, judging by some of your questions and the fact that you are not
confident about building a fairly simple PSU, the answer to your original question would be NO !
Please get someone else to do it, or come back to it in 6 months when you have taken on some simple projects
and done some more research.

No one is going to give you a total colour coded "step by step" guide, we expect people to learn here and try
to find solutions ( with a bit of help ) mostly from study and trial and error .... you don't want to do that on a
Neve piece ..... just yet !

Marty.
 
i disagree with that stae of mind...

however.. i did learn a LOT in the last days with doing the Pm1000 job and now working on the neves... first recapp done etc

if you guys really cant be bothered to be asked some questions where i would like to get someone at least tell me OK or NOT OK than sorry!


i am not going to get into the DIY SECT... not planed yet at least... i am not gonna overload myself with 10 preamp-clones and working on them day and night while forgeting i wanted to do music originally

i also do not have any other projects for trial and error here and also no money for any more and probably no time either

hope it do not sound rude either, as its not intendet to... i am very thankfull for all (real) help
but a lil less educational-psycholigy and a bit more straight answers may not be the worst scenario!?

thanks
 
Pay your tech to be the lead builder and "guide you" through this and, as stated by the previous poster " a Neve is not the piece to practice on".  Your willingness to learn is great but your not grasping even simple assignments, most likely due to the language barrier.  Awesome purchase, don't ruin them!
 
what is there to be runied???

remember, i asked several times if there are any hidden difficulties and "dangers" nobody named any...

i know how to wire the 5k pot now accoring to my tech... after that ..all that is left to be wired are the rear-connectors wich is not even inside the modules

i honestly dont see how i could possibly damage anythign if i dont act extremly foolish

as long as i get in the best case from 2 sides an OK before i do something (5k pot and later rear wiring) i dont see the problem.


thats why i ask, becasue i want to do this now:

accoring to my tech:

-i will take OFF the 2 wires that are connected to "P" and "L" an let those hang unconnected

- i will connect "P" to the middle POT-pin
- "L" to the left and "R" to the right POT-pin (viewed from front)
-leaving the 470uF`where they are


i trust the man, he is working on highend audio gear all day

all i ask is if somebody who actualy knows can give a short OK

 
ion said:
what is there to be runied???

Famous last words.

ion said:
i honestly dont see how i could possibly damage anythign if i dont act extremly foolish

We've all been foolish, or careless, mistaken, or simply tired.

Hooking up the supply the wrong way around. A solder bridge in just the right (or wrong) place. A connector that's put in upside down. Confusing pin numbering. A missing layer of isolation.

The damage can vary from none at all, to to a blown fuse, to a blown resistor, to blown semiconductors (and those Neve parts are getting hard to find), exploding capacitors, a minor (or major) fire in your studio. This could happen instantly or after some warm-up time.

None of this is specific to these particular boards. There are no major hidden difficulties with this design; everything that can go wrong here can go wrong with any project (although power amps and tube circuitry is hairier than most).

JDB.
 
okay i will let the final rear wiring be done by the tech if you advice me to do so... but at least i want to connect the 5k pot`s now according to actually his instructions...


about soldering bridges.. well i did take care taht on the PCB there is no soldering field connected to any other that wasnt connected before

 
Sorry Ion, I really didn't mean to offend but the title of this post is a question and I gave an honest
answer, which I stand by still.

Regards,

Marty.
 
>-i will take OFF the 2 wires that are connected to "P" and "L" an let those hang unconnected
>
>- i will connect "P" to the middle POT-pin
>- "L" to the left and "R" to the right POT-pin (viewed from front)
>-leaving the 470uF`where they are

I think it should be :

P -> top of the pot 
L -> middle of the pot
R -> bottom of the pot  (power supply common)

Leave the cap where it is. That's for the supply rail to connect to power supply common.
No 5K resistor needed.


 
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