Sound Skulptor: Pre's, Compressors, Tape Simulator, Professionnal Audio Kits

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I can mail you a spare PCB + connector.
Send me an email.
Thank you. I’ll give it some more time this afternoon to try and get it as I’m excited to finish it, but if I can’t I’ll shoot over the email. Thank you for the wonderful build guide by the way.
 
Unsoldering braid. It works fine for normal components but when all of the holes are attached at the same time it’s tough to pull up the component while the solder is hot haha.
Well with the braid you should be removing most of the solder so that you can remove the part without having to have the solder hot. Have you watched any videos on how to use solder braid properly?
 
Well with the braid you should be removing most of the solder so that you can remove the part without having to have the solder hot. Have you watched any videos on how to use solder braid properly?
Yes - it’s just really tough to get all the solder out without pulling out each of the 13 pins out of the plastic, which is what I ended up doing. The “issue” with this is then I jam them back in, but it’s tricky because the plastic is no longer “virgin” so the height doesn’t stay with the pins after that. Unfortunately a bit of the plastic ended up being compromised due to the heat it required to get all the solder out on my first attempt.

Lesson learned, when you’re tired as **** go to bed. In hindsight I should’ve just drilled 2 holes in the backside PCB for the screws and called it a day since they serve no purpose on the actual circuit. Didn’t think of this because i was tired. Oh well.

I’d need to do both sets in order to get it proper so just going to get a replacement PCB/pin set and be done with it so that it doesn’t look like hell.
 
@Spiritworks
Hi Spiritworks, all is well here, thank you! I hope for you too.

@svyet
This offer was not related to us.

@adam.schw
It is quite difficult to remove components on double sided PCB with vias. We usually recommend to sacrifice the component (cut the pins, remove the pins and remove the solder) and put in a new component. Replacing a component is generally 100 times cheaper than replacing the PCB.
 
@Spiritworks
Hi Spiritworks, all is well here, thank you! I hope for you too.

@svyet
This offer was not related to us.

@adam.schw
It is quite difficult to remove components on double sided PCB with vias. We usually recommend to sacrifice the component (cut the pins, remove the pins and remove the solder) and put in a new component. Replacing a component is generally 100 times cheaper than replacing the PCB.
Fair point.

The PCB’s are fine, so I could just mouser the 2 headers I need. I’m not technical, but it looks like this is what I need - can you confirm?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-28-8133?qs=l%2BWx29wYPrwPQBTZUVDqKw==
 
Coming soon:
PAD500 Dual balanced line attenuator
pad500sm.jpg
Look in page 1 of this thread.
 
My MP-66 Rack version is now eleven years old and I took it out of the rack to open it up and give it a good cleaning. One channel was exhibiting much lower input and output signals, along with a little bit of crackling as the pots were adjusted. I cleaned all of the connections and switches with DeOxit D5, but I cannot figure out how to access the pots to clean them. I suspect that they are sealed pots, which require no cleaning. Can anyone verify this? I am hoping to get this unit back to fully operational, as it is a wonderful piece of kit.
 
These pots are sealed.
It is better to replace them if they started crackling.
I have a few left, if you want.
 
A full varimu compressor in a single 500 series slot! Amazing. What a world we live in. Congratulations @JPK , it looks very nicely done.

Gonna need another rack... *sigh*
 
Last edited:
Back
Top