Is your motor 220V or 240V? Or is it 110V on a step down?I will check the gunk again when I have the time for it, take pictures and start a topic... about motorgunk.
Is your motor 220V or 240V? Or is it 110V on a step down?I will check the gunk again when I have the time for it, take pictures and start a topic... about motorgunk.
Ok240V Hammond L100 from Belgium factory (wrecked)
Have hundreds of them are they useless ? Can make closed speakers sound boom boom like basreflex.They are little bombs waiting to happen. Replace with new caps, that generally have lower esr, on a par with the tants.
No. They are fine when fitted polarity correct and where they are protected from the faul conditions outlined in this thread.Have hundreds of them are they useless ? Can make closed speakers sound boom boom like basreflex.
The Hammond on off switch board has two toggles , one starts the electronics and supplies the main motor run winding , but it only spins up when the second momentary action toggle engages the start winding , I have no idea what modifications you've done , but the start winding must be disconnected after the motor spins up or it could cause a heat issue .With a single toggle your probably cooking the start winding
No two stage switch on L100 - there are 250V single pole key switches readily available from most electrical wholesalers:Ah ! ding ding ding !
That must be it, I just flip it on with a single switch.
Somebody at some point put a car ignition key starter on the organ, but I did not have the carkey.
Makes so much sense now as that is a two stage switch.
Thanks for this !
The machine is running ok, starts fine, runs fine, the motor just gets hot.Could be a centrifugal switch on the motor shaft , sometimes they become damaged or stuck , can be difficult to find the right part to fix it .
The two position ignition style keyswitch is well suited to a repair job ,but check the voltage rating .
Having a key to start the machine up would very cool though ,
You should check out Panasonic FR series for railsthanks all for sharing.
I'm gonna go with replacing with Panasonic fm/fm for peace of mind, also Newmarket is right there is probably lots of additional ceramics decoupling at the chip.
In addition:The machine is running ok, starts fine, runs fine, the motor just gets hot.
Ok done. Sorry about the hijack guys.https://groupdiy.com/threads/idea-with-old-hammond.79989/page-4
Let's go there, there's also some pics of the motor
Over-level in the signal path, spiking due to clipping and chip failure can cause failure in tantalums just as it can in supply rail situations. They simply cannot handle overvoltage or reverse voltage. With a reverse voltage applied, a reverse leakage current flows in very small areas of microcracks or other defects across the dielectric layer to the anode of the capacitor. Although the current may only be a few microamps, it represents a very high localized current density which can cause a tiny hot-spot. This can cause some conversion of amorphous tantalum pentoxide to the more conductive crystalline form. When a high current is available, this effect can avalanche and the capacitor may become a total short.Be aware that tantalum caps in the audio path definitely DO have a sonic signature---some like it and some don't. Neve mixing consoles of the 70s were full of them and they are reputed to be some of the very BEST sounding consoles ever made. Many have reported that replacing the tantalums with regular electrolytics ruined the "Neve sound"; also reputed to enhance the sound of some guitar amplifiers. Tantalums are also famous for often shorting out when used as power supply bypass caps, and causing massive failures (Ampex ATR-124, for example)
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