The microphone capsule photo and information thread

[rock soderstrom]

Here two electret capsules, pretty cheap but a good solution for ultra low budget mics. They are better than the low price suggests...

I named them KK12 (V1 and V2) in honor of our member @kingkorg, who discovered them for the forum.

The real names are probably ME-10 and H052(?)


V2 is slimer than V1. 7,8mm vs. 10,5mm, diameter is the same for both capsules ~25mm

 

[Emmathom]

Voice audio test done with the "psychedelic capsule" from Ali Express.
Except the fact that it's too sibilant, this capsule delivers a good sound.
I think it would be more than pleasant with a de-emphasis network...

 

[Emmathom]

Does anybody know if the Studio Project B1 new version has the same 797audio capsule as the old version ?

 

[Murdock]

Nice thread!
I’ll try to contribute with an oddball SDC. Never seen it elsewhere but it has a serial number (049) so there have to be more. Maybe someone here has seen one?

Backplate diameter is around 16mm. With the diaphragm ring it’s 18mm.
There are 6 small screws in the backplate which, I would guess, can be removed to turn the Omni capsule in to a cardioid one?
It is center terminated.
The pin in the middle can be removed.
The diaphragm is glued on to the outer ring which in turn can be screwed on to the capsule. So distance to backplate can be tuned.

I have received it with a ripped diaphragm so I don’t know how it sounds. Will try to install a new one soon.
Does anyone have tips on how to glue Mylar to brass?

 

[kingkorg]

Nice thread!
I’ll try to contribute with an oddball SDC. Never seen it elsewhere but it has a serial number (049) so there have to be more. Maybe someone here has seen one?

Backplate diameter is around 16mm. With the diaphragm ring it’s 18mm.
There are 6 small screws in the backplate which, I would guess, can be removed to turn the Omni capsule in to a cardioid one?
It is center terminated.
The pin in the middle can be removed.
The diaphragm is glued on to the outer ring which in turn can be screwed on to the capsule. So distance to backplate can be tuned.

I have received it with a ripped diaphragm so I don’t know how it sounds. Will try to install a new one soon.
Does anyone have tips on how to glue Mylar to brass?

View attachment 134175View attachment 134176View attachment 134177
View attachment 134179

Regular Loctite epoxy worked great for me so far.

 

[amplexus]

Beesneez K7(K47)

 

[Murdock]

Regular Loctite epoxy worked great for me so far.

Thanks, but what is the regular Loctite epoxy? They have several… maybe the EA3430?
And did you use it without a primer beforehand?

 

[kingkorg]

Thanks, but what is the regular Loctite epoxy? They have several… maybe the EA3430?
And did you use it without a primer beforehand?

This one. No primer needed. I also re-skinned the same backplate several times, several months apart for experimentation, and it was PITA to remove the mylar. I'd say it's very robust and reliable.

 

[k brown]

Thanks, but what is the regular Loctite epoxy? They have several… maybe the EA3430?
And did you use it without a primer beforehand?

Any epoxy will work; no 'primer' needed, just clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol.

 

[nashkato]

neuman m7 serial 342
violet designs

 

[soliloqueen]

Any epoxy will work; no 'primer' needed, just clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol.

It's also a good idea to thin the epoxy depending on how you're going to apply it

 

[Recording Engineer]

Flea F9:

 

[Tubetec]

How is epoxy thinned ? as far as I knew it comes in different viscosities , fast or slow curing etc

 

[k brown]

Here two electret capsules, pretty cheap but a good solution for ultra low budget mics. They are better than the low price suggests...

I named them KK12 (V1 and V2) in honor of our member @kingkorg, who discovered them for the forum.

The real names are probably ME-10 and H052(?)

View attachment 134113View attachment 134114View attachment 134115View attachment 134116
V2 is slimer than V1. 7,8mm vs. 10,5mm, diameter is the same for both capsules ~25mm

It's amazing V2 sounds as good as it does; aside from the diaphragm (and it's spacer ring) this one piece is all that's inside! The exact same piece is found in the (not very impressive) Transound TSB-2555 (just shows how important faceplate, and diaphragm materials/tension are).

And, as I mentioned in another thread, just sealing those holes results in a very nice omni; though due to it's size one that becomes quite directional in the top octave (which in some circumstances can be quite useful).

 

[kingkorg]

It's amazing V2 sounds as good as it does; aside from the diaphragm (and it's spacer ring) this one piece is all that's inside! The exact same piece as found in the (not very impressive) Transound TSB-2555.

And, as I mentioned in another thread, just sealing those holes results in a very nice omni; though due to it's size one that becomes quite directional in the top octave.

On the other hand, it is based on the same principle as CK12, only half of it.


Oktava MKE-2




Beesneez SDC (Can't remember the name)



DPA Core 4099

 

[klem]

I can get more pics this weekend (installed in a 47FET), but here's the back side of a Samar TF08 cardioid, 3 chambered capsule and his mounting post.

 

[Paul W]

How is epoxy thinned ? as far as I knew it comes in different viscosities , fast or slow curing etc

Often with alcohol, but I think some epoxies don't like that. Sometimes with other solvents, but Mylar may not like those.

Thinning epoxy makes it porous when it sets (and the solvent evaporates out) and less strong. It can affect long-term durability... but maybe not enough to matter in this case?

I wonder if it would be better to find an epoxy that is thin by default, maybe even an epoxy "paint" rather than an epoxy "glue."

 

[k brown]

Often with alcohol, but I think some epoxies don't like that. Sometimes with other solvents, but Mylar may not like those.

Thinning epoxy makes it porous when it sets, and less strong. It can affect long-term durability... but maybe not enough to matter in this case?

I wonder if it would be better to find an epoxy that is thin by default, maybe even an epoxy "paint" rather than an epoxy "glue."

Must be denatured alcohol, with absolutely NO water in it.

 

[Paul W]

You can also thin epoxy by warming it, and that doesn't make it porous or weak or affect its long-term durability as much. It does quicken the setting so you need to use a slower setting epoxy than you would if you weren't warming it.

 

[k brown]

Then again, the teeny holes seen in post #104 could probably be sealed with dabs of finger nail polish, or that stuff used to hold trim pots' positions.