1073 1084 with EQ DIY project HELP THREAD

[structuredloud]

Has there been any discussion about the various components that are in between the boards? You can see them in the EH10023 drawing, but I'm not sure what type any of these are and also whether the dark or light line represents the positive side of polarized caps. Does anyone have a parts list for the EH10023 drawing, it's not on the TA website.

 

[structuredloud]

Okay answered a few of my questions. They're lytics, dark is negative - they are 470uF but GT said neve basically put in the biggest that would fit the chassis so bigger could be good too.

 

[flintan]

[quote author="audioforge"]I ve done two input attenuators with the uraltone 24 positions four decks.
http://www.uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info.php?products_id=1078
For 12 euros they seems quite good. not elma quality for sure but as good or better than a classic lorlin.
[/quote]

The "data sheet" doesn't say much... Do you know what contact plating it has? And are they shorting make-before-break type?

 

[structuredloud]

RE: BA283 big mistake!

I've been comparing your 283 to my vintage 283 module. Am I crazy or should you be able to simply rotate the 2n3055 180 degrees and the base and emitter will be going to the correct traces without any PCB modification. I know the pins will have to be bent slightly, but that seems an easier fix than scaping off varnish and cutting traces. Of course a nylon screw will still have to be used for the casing.

 

[kazper]

RE: BA283 big mistake!

I've been comparing your 283 to my vintage 283 module. Am I crazy or should you be able to simply rotate the 2n3055 180 degrees and the base and emitter will be going to the correct traces without any PCB modification. I know the pins will have to be bent slightly, but that seems an easier fix than scraping off varnish and cutting traces. Of course a nylon screw will still have to be used for the casing.

Your only a couple pages late and a email short


Anyone know where to get some Motorola 2n3055's?

 

[flintan]

[quote author="flintan"][quote author="audioforge"]I ve done two input attenuators with the uraltone 24 positions four decks.
http://www.uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info.php?products_id=1078
For 12 euros they seems quite good. not elma quality for sure but as good or better than a classic lorlin.
[/quote]

The "data sheet" doesn't say much... Do you know what contact plating it has? And are they shorting make-before-break type?[/quote]

Ok, got e-mail reply from Uraltone today. Those switches are non-shorting type. As i have understood gain switches are to be shorting type or else it will bump up to maximum gain between every step, don't know about this specific project tho..?

Could someone confirm this?

 

[audioforge]

flintan
gainswiches for the 1073/84 series are non shorting.
look the schematics.
audioforge

 

[flintan]

[quote author="audioforge"]flintan
gainswiches for the 1073/84 series are non shorting.
look the schematics.
audioforge[/quote]

Ok, thanks. I'm not building Neve pre at the moment, was just wondering about the switches...

 

[josh]

Instead of hijacking the other guys build thread, I think this is a more appropriate place to talk about this.
I am sitting on my 2 x 1073 boards for awhile. In the meatime, I'd like to pick everyones brain on how to implement the 1073 eq into this build. Basically it would become a clone of a Vintech X73(i), which is a clone of.... not an exact Neve box is it? The 1073 is an eq, and folks like Brent Averil began racking them and integrating an amplification stage to make a super duper sexy preamp. The correctness of that statement is irrelevant to what I'm asking about.

Does anyone have the schematic of how to integrate the eq stage into this build? I think that would be ideal because the EQ on the 1073 sounds fantastic coming from my UAD plugin, and I can only imagine what a hardware version would sound like. I'm imagining a different sort of "heaven" for my digital synth's to buss into.

MAN OH MAN!

Thoughts, ideas, anything? Let's make this happen guys! :thumb:

 

[Tekay]

Gainswitches in 1073 and similar units are shorting atleast in the units I've worked with. ELMA 04-3133.

 

[audioforge]

thanks tekay
madriananse use a grayhill non shorting gain switche for his "1290" (grayhill 71bdf30-03-1-ajn) project but sca use grayhill 71bdf30-03-1-ajs (s for shorting?) on his 1272 one......
could you tell us more.
what about the others swithes?
thanks again for your help.
audioforge

 

[structuredloud]

[quote author="josh"]
Thoughts, ideas, anything? Let's make this happen guys! :thumb:[/quote]

You're probably thinking it's an EQ only because your plugin is, it's actually a preamp and eq. The eq is part of the design, making a "preamp only" version would be the alternative and is done both by cloners and the actual AMS NEVE comapny (search NEVE DPA or DPD).

 

[structuredloud]

[quote author="josh"]
I am sitting on my 2 x 1073 boards for awhile[/quote]

Wait . . . which boards do you have? You might be more confused than I think.

Ba283, 284 = Amplifiers
All other "B" boards are for the filters. But you'll still need amplifiers unless it's going to be a passive EQ.

If you want to build a 1073 EQ only, you will need these boards still, you could cut one of the transformers out of the picture, but you won't really save that much money by cutting the preamp out of this project. Just do the whole thing man!

 

[digichild]

[quote author="ProfPep"]

By the way: before for any authenticity fetishist says "it's not a 3055", I might point out that 60% of what is labelled 3055 isn't either, unless you buy from a major company. Most 3055's are regarded as 'generic NPN power' and sourced from production drop outs of higher rated devices. The flat pack ones at least come from a major maker, and will have the correct semiconductor die inside the package. At this power level, heat transfer is not going to be an issue, (the flat pack ones have a slightly lower max power dissipation).

[EDIT] Doing some 3055 checking reveals that quite a few bigger makes may be 'selects' too. One Motorola data sheet quoted Ft anywhere from 0.6 MHz to 6MHz. Typical should be 2MHz, looking back at an old original RCA data book. Flat pack 3055's all seem to have a lower max current of around 10A, as opposed to 15 in the T03, (due to package limitations). Not really relevant here - the die is theoretically the same.

I think the flying heat sink method is the easiest. A Hint: when bending the pins, hold the pin next to the case with your needle nosed pliers to avoid cracking the seal. Another option is to solder some wire on to go down the holes and trim the pins to clear the board.[/quote]

the transistor gets pretty hot - is it really safe to use the like this?
or should i concider a heatsink :?:
nice idea by the way to use mje3055 :grin:

 

[bergis]

Has anyone finished one 1073 yet??

i´ve finished mine couple a days ago but the third gainstage isnt working... and when the the eq section is in it goes silent.

And now i have alot of funny debuging to do :shock:

(but it sounded really nice on bas)

 

[ProfPep]

[quote author="digichild"][quote author="ProfPep"]

By the way: before for any authenticity fetishist says "it's not a 3055", I might point out that 60% of what is labelled 3055 isn't either, unless you buy from a major company. Most 3055's are regarded as 'generic NPN power' and sourced from production drop outs of higher rated devices. The flat pack ones at least come from a major maker, and will have the correct semiconductor die inside the package. At this power level, heat transfer is not going to be an issue, (the flat pack ones have a slightly lower max power dissipation).

[EDIT] Doing some 3055 checking reveals that quite a few bigger makes may be 'selects' too. One Motorola data sheet quoted Ft anywhere from 0.6 MHz to 6MHz. Typical should be 2MHz, looking back at an old original RCA data book. Flat pack 3055's all seem to have a lower max current of around 10A, as opposed to 15 in the T03, (due to package limitations). Not really relevant here - the die is theoretically the same.

I think the flying heat sink method is the easiest. A Hint: when bending the pins, hold the pin next to the case with your needle nosed pliers to avoid cracking the seal. Another option is to solder some wire on to go down the holes and trim the pins to clear the board.[/quote]

the transistor gets pretty hot - is it really safe to use the like this?
or should i concider a heatsink :?:
nice idea by the way to use mje3055 :grin:[/quote]

I just showed it that way for speed - I definitely would use a twisted tab heatsink.

BTW - there seem to be both variants of the pinouts on flat pack 3055's. I would use the Motorola, for authenticity. I found some others in the bits box that were pinned ECB, and some BCE. Collector is always the middle pin, but it's worth checking the other two. Both types will fit. I've been away from the boards for a while, (work got 'untidy'), but I'll put up some test jigged pics when I get a moment.

Best wishes

 

[loopermc5]

I just got these boards off the black market and was just seeing if anyone has finished or come close to finishing this project besides bergis?
Thanks Rob

 

[bergis]

I have a question about the schematic..

How do I connect the eq section?? Is the regular connection (without eq)from ba283 bypassed when eq is on? Or do they go parallel when the eq is in?

EQ out: BA283-pin p - ext. link - back to BA 283
EQ In: Same as above + pin p (parallel)- EQ - ext link - BA283
Or
EQ In: BA283-pin p - EQ - ext link - BA283

?? If you get that...

 

[loopermc5]

nevermind

 

[loopermc5]

Anyone know where I can find some inside pics of the 1084 I have found plenty of 1073's I am getting ready to wire this project up!!
Thanks