3D "AIR" EQ - "Night EQ" PCB's Complete!

[laiben]

Here are my boards working in progress. The PSU board is the green preamp PSU board from peter.

The 470uf/63v cap is too tall for 1U rack!! I have to order some Panasonic cap from Farnell to replace them.

laiben

 

[khstudio]

Looks good but damn those caps are BIG :shock: .

:green:

 

[funkdrmr]

I found a small store here on Oahu that has nearly everything I need for this project! They even have the resistors / caps separated and labeled, but not by brand name.

The 470uf/63v caps I found there are CONSIDERABLY shorter than what you have on your boards. I can't tell what brand they are, though.

Is there any color scheme for the caps that I can use to tell what brand they are? Maybe abreviations of the company name on the caps themselves?

 

[laiben]

Those 'audiophile' caps (nichicon KZ muse, elna) are always oversized. :evil:

Next time I would rather get the Panasonic cap from Farnell if they are available.

laiben

 

[funkdrmr]

Sorry for the noob question here, everyone, but I've GOTTA ask.

I just got done stuffing all of the resistors, but noticed something I'm unsure about.

On the PCB there are some 22R resistor spots labeled RPSU.

I'm assuming 22ohm resistors go there....also, could someone tell me what RPSU stands for, or what these do in the circuit?

Thanks and Happy New Year!

 

[peterc]

I use RPSU to indicate a resistor from a power rail to the supply pin (usually on an opamp). It isolates the opamp from the supply line, in conjunction with a cap, usually labelled CPSU

They are usually 22R or so in value.

Peter

 

[dagoose]

My Nite EQ is up and running! well... i tested it and it works great! Now i need to order my frontpanel at schaeffer and it can be racked up
It sounds really sweet, i love the air section on 40khz, it freshens up the sound without getting harsh. Just did some quick tests but so far i'm really happy with the result, no hum, noise or what ever, just sweet EQ'ing.
Here is what mine looks like from the inside right now.

 

[funkdrmr]

I'm getting stoked seeing everyone's progress. I just stuffed all of the resistors yesterday & today and I think it's going ok for a first-timer!

No pics yet, but I do have another question.

My local parts store has both the 5532 and 5534 IC's in stock so I'd really like to purchase them there if I can.

HOWEVER....I'm unsure of the brand name at this time (going back tomorrow).

Is there a preference, or a difference between T.I., ON Semiconductor, Fairchild 5532's and 5534's or is this a case that as long as it's a "5534 IC", it will be good to go?

 

[fazeka]

[quote author="funkdrmr"]My local parts store has both the 5532 and 5534 IC's in stock so I'd really like to purchase them there if I can.[/quote]

IC Supply? Honolulu Electronics? Precision Radio?

 

[funkdrmr]

IC Supply.

I couldn't find Honolulu Electronics, and didn't know Precision Radio existed and carried the type of stuff we can use.

Are you out here, fazeka?

 

[Samuel Groner]

The 470 uF/63 V cap is too tall for 1 U rack!

Which cap is this? Why does it need to be rated for 63 V?

Samuel

 

[funkdrmr]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like this cap is for C1, C14, and C15. 63v is specified for protection in case it's exposed to Phantom Power.

Hope that helps....I'm not sure what it does in the circuit, if that's the info you're after.

 

[Samuel Groner]

It looks like this cap is for C1, C14 and C15.

Indeed it does.

63 V is specified for protection in case it's exposed to phantom power.

Clever idea, but not well thought trough. C1 never sees mor than 18 V as U4 won't swing any higher than the rails. C14 and C15 won't see anything more than ~29 V due to R28 and R33 forming a voltage divider together with the phantom power resistors.

So: these caps can be 35 V (C1 even 25 V), which makes them substantially smaller and easy to fit in 1 U.

Samuel

 

[khstudio]

NOTE:

Cin1 & Cin2 (labeled on PCB) were added for phantom protection by Peter.
The originals didn't have them.
I didn't load them in mine... just jumped them.

#2
I'm not sure how C14 & C15 got so large a voltage. :?
The originals are 25v & that is what I used in my units as well.
I will fix this on the schematic... sorry.

 

[khstudio]

I Have updated my web site with the current Parts list, Schematic & Overlay

www.khstudio.us/DIY.htm

Just click on Nite EQ :wink:

 

[funkdrmr]

Thanks, Kevin!

Can you provide some insight on my NE5532 / NE5534 question above? It seems my local store has the Fairchild model of these IC's in stock so I would like to pick them up.

I'm worried that there is a difference or preference between different brands like Texas Instruments, ON Semiconductor, Fairchild, etc...

Thanks again for all for this project. It's my first one and I'm having a BLAST sourcing and soldering everything up.

 

[khstudio]

[quote author="funkdrmr"]Thanks, Kevin!

Can you provide some insight on my NE5532 / NE5534 question above? It seems my local store has the Fairchild model of these IC's in stock so I would like to pick them up.

I'm worried that there is a difference or preference between different brands like Texas Instruments, ON Semiconductor, Fairchild, etc...

Thanks again for all for this project. It's my first one and I'm having a BLAST sourcing and soldering everything up.[/quote]

ANY of the RIGHT "TYPE = 5532 or 5534, will work fine.

The original used JRC 5532D & Signetics NE5534AN.

I happen to like the JRC's... there cheap & available.

BUT, I would have NO problem using others like the TI's.

If you read back earlier in the thread I get into the IC discussion & preference in more detail. :wink:

Good Luck :thumb:

 

[funkdrmr]

HAHA...I was JUST reading those posts when you replied.

Thanks! I think I'm just gonna stick with the components you used. I hope DigiKey shipping is fast!

 

[bluezplaya]

I have a question regarding the pushbutton switch and the 500k pots. Are there any substitutes for these at Mouser or Digikey?

Adam

 

[funkdrmr]

For the switch, I'm using P/N: 401-1223-ND from Digikey.