3D "AIR" EQ - "Night EQ" PCB's Complete!

[Slenderchap]

26 people have opted for the centre detent version.... and for the people who have been waiting... they came back into stock yesterday.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com

 

[nielsk]

The 47.5 R resistor & the 100uH inducter form a zobel, it is there to keep long cable runs from oscillating. I do not see any need for it on a short cable run, but it probably can't hurt.....
I'll keep you posted on reduced versions

 

[clintrubber]

Not sure the Zobel-name applies here, but indeed, the cap-cable-load is held away from the last opamp for stability-reasons.

 

[fazeka]

I've been reading these Nite EQ threads for a while and maybe I missed something as my eyes are tired...

My V2 boards have two R26: one 20k and one 3k3. Is this a mistake?

 

[khstudio]

[quote author="fazeka"]I've been reading these Nite EQ threads for a while and maybe I missed something as my eyes are tired...

My V2 boards have two R26: one 20k and one 3k3. Is this a mistake?[/quote]


It seems to be a mistake

BUT
it is labeled correctly on the PCB... so no worries. :green:

 

[fazeka]

Sorry!

Noticed this on Peter's BOM:

"Duplicate R26 - Next to Bypass SW - for LED"

 

[louder]

Hi
i have two questions before i finish these eq`s:
in the board there`s a hole marked 2-6,that i don`t know where to connect in the rotary sw.i think it goes in one of the inner poles,but i wanna make sure.
second one:for two channels,i`m gonna use a 635ma sb fuse:is it okay?.
sorry for these stupid questions.
best regards
pedro

 

[khstudio]

[quote author="louder"]Hi
i have two questions before i finish these eq`s:
in the board there`s a hole marked 2-6,that i don`t know where to connect in the rotary sw.i think it goes in one of the inner poles,but i wanna make sure.
second one:for two channels,i`m gonna use a 635ma sb fuse:is it okay?.
sorry for these stupid questions.
best regards
pedro[/quote]

It connects on ALL, 2 THRU 6, on the (a) poll side.
Pin 1 is un-used on BOTH POLLS.

That fuse should be OK... If my math is correct, each card should be drawing less that 100ma.

250 - 300ma TOTAL (LEDs & all) should be enough for a stereo unit.

 

[louder]

Hi Kevin
thank you for the help,and just to make sure:
one side of a wire goes to the hole marked 2-6,the other side goes to the five pins of the sw.
it doesn`t go to the inner pin.
best regards
pedro

 

[peterc]

Pedro

Have a look at this pic:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=19789&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=450&sid=cb2bbd36507b2873337349e8c10c952f

Fisrt half of the rotary switch:
The hole marked 'a' goes to the inner pin of a 2 x 6way rotary. The hole marked '2-6' goes to the pins 2-6 (joined on the switch). Shown by the 2 white wires in this pic.

The second half of the rotary:
The hole marked 'b' goes to the other inner pin of the rotary. The individual wires marked 2 to 6 go to pins 2-6 on the switch. Shown by the coloured wires in the pic.

Peter

 

[nielsk]

when you say "REMEMBER:
I set up the AIR SHELVES - PARALLEL to a FULL bandwidth signal"
do you mean that the output of the air band (U1A) and the output of the "to all Q's" tie together at the "EQ Sum" point (adding the eq'd signal to the input signal)?

Niels

 

[khstudio]

x

 

[louder]

Hi
it`s alive and well,and noise free,and as for the sound,after a quick listening,sounds very good.
tell you all after serious listening.
thank you all that made this happen.
best regards
pedro

 

[funkdrmr]

Could anyone verify that I have the correct capacitors sourced on the BOM link below?

Link: http://www.satellitegrey.com/diy/night_eq/night_eq_caps.xls

*****THIS IS NOT VERIFIED!!!****PLEASE DO NOT USE AT THIS TIME AS A VERIFIED BOM!!! *****

(sorry...but I saw all the problems earlier in the thread when BOM's were posted!)

This is the first time I've had to source capacitors (first project, really!)...and I get a little confused with the different varieties available on Mouser's site.

I think I've gotten close, but I'd really appreciate if someone could verify for me. I've put the mouser links in Column "L" on the row of their respective part, so you should be able to click the links & check real quick!

I've been reading this thread for about 5 hours now and it's helped a ton...I'd just really appreciate a second-check from anyone more experienced than I am (read....ANYONE else!)

 

[Godders]

Link doesn't work for me.

 

[funkdrmr]

Sorry about that...fixed the link!

 

[Godders]

Those 22pf ceramic caps are SMD (surface mount) so are the wrong type. You want something like p/n 81-RPE5C1H220J1A1Y02.

The boxed metal films and nichicon lytics should be fine, up to you to make sure the lead spacings and values are OK though!

Cheers

Nick

 

[funkdrmr]

Thanks for the help, Nick!

The lead spacings is one of the harder things I had to search for. I'm sure I didn't get it correct.

Thanks for letting me know I'm on the right track!

 

[laiben]

funkdrmr, the 470uf/63v capacitor maybe too big for the pcb, also as I remember the spacing of that capacitor is 5mm on the pcb. Pls measure it again.

laiben

 

[funkdrmr]

Thanks, laiben!

I've gotten together with Jed, so I'm using his "mouser" list along with the information I have.

Everything looks good so far. I'm hoping it can be verified by someone here before I order but if not, I think it's close enough to order anyways and figure it out from there.

I'm hoping it will be something that can be shared & used by everyone else to make things easier. Sourcing the parts seems to be such a difficult task when you're new at this stuff and I'd love to be able to give SOMETHING back for this project.

I appreciate all the help so far.....I'm sure I'll have more questions this weekend!