Slenderchap
Well-known member
26 people have opted for the centre detent version.... and for the people who have been waiting... they came back into stock yesterday.
Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
3D "AIR" EQ - "Night EQ" PCB's Complete!
- Thread starter khstudio
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
nielsk
Well-known member
The 47.5 R resistor & the 100uH inducter form a zobel, it is there to keep long cable runs from oscillating. I do not see any need for it on a short cable run, but it probably can't hurt.....
I'll keep you posted on reduced versions
I'll keep you posted on reduced versions
clintrubber
Well-known member
Not sure the Zobel-name applies here, but indeed, the cap-cable-load is held away from the last opamp for stability-reasons.
khstudio
Well-known member
[quote author="fazeka"]I've been reading these Nite EQ threads for a while and maybe I missed something as my eyes are tired...
My V2 boards have two R26: one 20k and one 3k3. Is this a mistake?[/quote]
It seems to be a mistake
BUT
it is labeled correctly on the PCB... so no worries. :green:
My V2 boards have two R26: one 20k and one 3k3. Is this a mistake?[/quote]
It seems to be a mistake
BUT
it is labeled correctly on the PCB... so no worries. :green:
Hi
i have two questions before i finish these eq`s:
in the board there`s a hole marked 2-6,that i don`t know where to connect in the rotary sw.i think it goes in one of the inner poles,but i wanna make sure.
second one:for two channels,i`m gonna use a 635ma sb fuse:is it okay?.
sorry for these stupid questions.
best regards
pedro
i have two questions before i finish these eq`s:
in the board there`s a hole marked 2-6,that i don`t know where to connect in the rotary sw.i think it goes in one of the inner poles,but i wanna make sure.
second one:for two channels,i`m gonna use a 635ma sb fuse:is it okay?.
sorry for these stupid questions.
best regards
pedro
khstudio
Well-known member
[quote author="louder"]Hi
i have two questions before i finish these eq`s:
in the board there`s a hole marked 2-6,that i don`t know where to connect in the rotary sw.i think it goes in one of the inner poles,but i wanna make sure.
second one:for two channels,i`m gonna use a 635ma sb fuse:is it okay?.
sorry for these stupid questions.
best regards
pedro[/quote]
It connects on ALL, 2 THRU 6, on the (a) poll side.
Pin 1 is un-used on BOTH POLLS.
That fuse should be OK... If my math is correct, each card should be drawing less that 100ma.
250 - 300ma TOTAL (LEDs & all) should be enough for a stereo unit.
i have two questions before i finish these eq`s:
in the board there`s a hole marked 2-6,that i don`t know where to connect in the rotary sw.i think it goes in one of the inner poles,but i wanna make sure.
second one:for two channels,i`m gonna use a 635ma sb fuse:is it okay?.
sorry for these stupid questions.
best regards
pedro[/quote]
It connects on ALL, 2 THRU 6, on the (a) poll side.
Pin 1 is un-used on BOTH POLLS.
That fuse should be OK... If my math is correct, each card should be drawing less that 100ma.
250 - 300ma TOTAL (LEDs & all) should be enough for a stereo unit.
peterc
Well-known member
Pedro
Have a look at this pic:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=19789&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=450&sid=cb2bbd36507b2873337349e8c10c952f
Fisrt half of the rotary switch:
The hole marked 'a' goes to the inner pin of a 2 x 6way rotary. The hole marked '2-6' goes to the pins 2-6 (joined on the switch). Shown by the 2 white wires in this pic.
The second half of the rotary:
The hole marked 'b' goes to the other inner pin of the rotary. The individual wires marked 2 to 6 go to pins 2-6 on the switch. Shown by the coloured wires in the pic.
Peter
Have a look at this pic:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=19789&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=450&sid=cb2bbd36507b2873337349e8c10c952f
Fisrt half of the rotary switch:
The hole marked 'a' goes to the inner pin of a 2 x 6way rotary. The hole marked '2-6' goes to the pins 2-6 (joined on the switch). Shown by the 2 white wires in this pic.
The second half of the rotary:
The hole marked 'b' goes to the other inner pin of the rotary. The individual wires marked 2 to 6 go to pins 2-6 on the switch. Shown by the coloured wires in the pic.
Peter
nielsk
Well-known member
when you say "REMEMBER:
I set up the AIR SHELVES - PARALLEL to a FULL bandwidth signal"
do you mean that the output of the air band (U1A) and the output of the "to all Q's" tie together at the "EQ Sum" point (adding the eq'd signal to the input signal)?
Niels
I set up the AIR SHELVES - PARALLEL to a FULL bandwidth signal"
do you mean that the output of the air band (U1A) and the output of the "to all Q's" tie together at the "EQ Sum" point (adding the eq'd signal to the input signal)?
Niels
khstudio
Well-known member
x
funkdrmr
Well-known member
Could anyone verify that I have the correct capacitors sourced on the BOM link below?
Link: http://www.satellitegrey.com/diy/night_eq/night_eq_caps.xls
*****THIS IS NOT VERIFIED!!!****PLEASE DO NOT USE AT THIS TIME AS A VERIFIED BOM!!! *****
(sorry...but I saw all the problems earlier in the thread when BOM's were posted!)
This is the first time I've had to source capacitors (first project, really!)...and I get a little confused with the different varieties available on Mouser's site.
I think I've gotten close, but I'd really appreciate if someone could verify for me. I've put the mouser links in Column "L" on the row of their respective part, so you should be able to click the links & check real quick!
I've been reading this thread for about 5 hours now and it's helped a ton...I'd just really appreciate a second-check from anyone more experienced than I am (read....ANYONE else!)
Link: http://www.satellitegrey.com/diy/night_eq/night_eq_caps.xls
*****THIS IS NOT VERIFIED!!!****PLEASE DO NOT USE AT THIS TIME AS A VERIFIED BOM!!! *****
(sorry...but I saw all the problems earlier in the thread when BOM's were posted!)
This is the first time I've had to source capacitors (first project, really!)...and I get a little confused with the different varieties available on Mouser's site.
I think I've gotten close, but I'd really appreciate if someone could verify for me. I've put the mouser links in Column "L" on the row of their respective part, so you should be able to click the links & check real quick!
I've been reading this thread for about 5 hours now and it's helped a ton...I'd just really appreciate a second-check from anyone more experienced than I am (read....ANYONE else!)
funkdrmr
Well-known member
Sorry about that...fixed the link!
Those 22pf ceramic caps are SMD (surface mount) so are the wrong type. You want something like p/n 81-RPE5C1H220J1A1Y02.
The boxed metal films and nichicon lytics should be fine, up to you to make sure the lead spacings and values are OK though!
Cheers
Nick
The boxed metal films and nichicon lytics should be fine, up to you to make sure the lead spacings and values are OK though!
Cheers
Nick
funkdrmr
Well-known member
Thanks for the help, Nick!
The lead spacings is one of the harder things I had to search for. I'm sure I didn't get it correct.
Thanks for letting me know I'm on the right track!
The lead spacings is one of the harder things I had to search for. I'm sure I didn't get it correct.
Thanks for letting me know I'm on the right track!
funkdrmr
Well-known member
Thanks, laiben!
I've gotten together with Jed, so I'm using his "mouser" list along with the information I have.
Everything looks good so far. I'm hoping it can be verified by someone here before I order but if not, I think it's close enough to order anyways and figure it out from there.
I'm hoping it will be something that can be shared & used by everyone else to make things easier. Sourcing the parts seems to be such a difficult task when you're new at this stuff and I'd love to be able to give SOMETHING back for this project.
I appreciate all the help so far.....I'm sure I'll have more questions this weekend!
I've gotten together with Jed, so I'm using his "mouser" list along with the information I have.
Everything looks good so far. I'm hoping it can be verified by someone here before I order but if not, I think it's close enough to order anyways and figure it out from there.
I'm hoping it will be something that can be shared & used by everyone else to make things easier. Sourcing the parts seems to be such a difficult task when you're new at this stuff and I'd love to be able to give SOMETHING back for this project.
I appreciate all the help so far.....I'm sure I'll have more questions this weekend!
