OK, if R29 is 4.6K (4k6 for the euros), we can use...wait for it....Ohm's Law to compute the current. We know the voltage at both ends of R29, so the voltage ACROSS R29 is 398-395 = 3V or so (your meter may not be very accurate for HV).
V = IR, or I = V/R
I = 3V / 4600ohms = 650uA (less than a milliAmp).
Your neon lights, so we know it is passing current. Looking at the schemo and indicated nominal voltages and using Ohm's (oh, so useful) Law again, the neon needs about 500uA to run. My guess is that you have not completely connected your B+ to the rest of the circuit. There should be a lot of things connected to the node between R28 and R29. Are there? Can you trace along wires from that point to the several plate resistors feeding the tubes (R9, R13, R17, R33, R34)?
A P