[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

[phishman13]

Hello! I've finished my 1176 Rev A! No problems at all, sounds awesome! just a little bit of "SShhhhh" noise floor than my Rev D! of course 'cause it's not a "LN" unit
I used the resistor's changes for the pushbutton's board and one in the main (resolving the plosive issue), I didn't need swapping the 2K, "0" set pot, by the 5K one as some people did because I had no problems at all regulating it!
Mako, it's an awesome project, I must say! thanks all of you from supporting this forum!!
Cheers,

Eddie

Congrats on the successful build!  Would you mind listing what resistor values you changed on the ratio board and the one on the main board?  I am having an issue with one of the ratio selections and maybe this could help.  also solving the plosive issue too!

Thanks!

 

[RedNoise]

ok it was bad 3707 NPN EBC instead of ECB like it's wwrite on the datasheets if i put it in a same place of the 5088 give a good voltage

???????????

HAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!! ;D

 

[stereokillah]

thanx guys, for the time i don't have changed resistor , i will refind the link and see what i need to change.

 

[ilfungo]

???
Hi guys I have a problem that I can solve ninth
I have 29.2 instead of 30
-8.9 instead of -10
If I connect the ratio  board -7.6 ???
Can you help me?


across the torroidal I have 28 -0-28...
Thanks

 

[a2d]

ahhh yes I kind of had the same problem, if your using the 2n5457 transistors you will need to turn them around, opposite than the silk screening

 

[benlindell]

After making a bunch of stupid mistakes my 1176 is working and calibrated. Everything works perfect except I can't get the attack knob to make any difference. the Release knob works perfectly, any ideas what it could be?

 

[stereokillah]

the story continue !!!

now every thing seems to work but i have a big noise around -48dB rms even the unit OFF.
but when i put out the iec wire this noise disapears. 

 

[ask]

I was wondering if it was possible/feasible to do a daughterboard, that would make it possible to select between rev. D and A - a bit like the many SSL add-ons. Since the circuits are rather close, and all the expensive stuff are the same (transformers, T-Pad, VU-meter) it would be fantastic to have a switching possibility.

:

 

[benlindell]

stereokillah, sounds like a grounding problem, do you have a star ground with the IEC ground, input pin1, and the PCB ground between pad 18 and 22?

 

[stereokillah]

yes benlindell i had this ground but not between pad 18 and 22 to rack.

thanx problem erased

 

[Rob Flinn]

I was wondering if it was possible/feasible to do a daughterboard, that would make it possible to select between rev. D and A - a bit like the many SSL add-ons. Since the circuits are rather close, and all the expensive stuff are the same (transformers, T-Pad, VU-meter) it would be fantastic to have a switching possibility.

:

Just build one of each, you'll wind up using them both anyway if my experience is anything to go by !!

 

[stereokillah]

i'm sorry i hope this is the last question for this unit.

i 've read the nmats page calibration for rev D

the Qbias adjustement videos seem to be for the rev DF but not for the A
i ve try this way but the shorting bewteen the 22 and ground cut the signal.

i've tried like the urei 1176 manual but nothing better

what the real way to adjust the Q bias please?

 

[stereokillah]

ok i find this page for beginer like me i will tried it tomorow

http://nimbleswitch.com/diy/1176_revD/index.php?page=calibration

 

[benlindell]

Finished my second Rev A and it has the same attack problem, I'm getting no difference with the attack pot. any ideas what could be causing it? I've searched through both the RevA and RevD threads any haven't found any help.

thanks guys.

 

[phishman13]

So dummy me didn't realize that I had to do some calibration before i make any judgements as to if it works or not. 

I calibrated the Q adjust, easy.
I calibrated the GR 0 and tracking, easy.  (i have the stock 2k trimmer in instead of the 5k)

Only question about that is that after I put the tracking trimmer BACK in the circuit, the GR wasn't at 0, so was i right in adjusting the 0 adjust back to 0?  I didn't touch the null adjust after calibrating with the tracking trimmer out of the circuit.

And now it seems like its working.  passes full band audio unlike before.  My only observations are that the 2 middle ratios (12:1 and 8:1) seem to be doing about 8:1, and then the 4:1 and 20:1 seem to be doing about 20:1.  I run a snare track through it, and the GR is the same for the 20:1 and 4:1, and then less GR but the same amount for 8:1 and 12:1.  I'm using the paperwork sent with the Hairball pushbuttons.  I'm gonna reread this and the all buttons in thread (since i now know what you all meant by plosives) and see what i can find out. 

Oh and it hums like nasty.  I will get it all in the case and redo the grounding a little better and see what happens.

 

[stereokillah]

I calibrated the Q adjust, easy.
I calibrated the GR 0 and tracking, easy.  (i have the stock 2k trimmer in instead of the 5k)

I'd like to said that,

for the gr calibration the vu meter change when i put the jumper near R44 is it normal?

 

[phishman13]

stereokillah

i think so.  thats what i'm still wondering though.

here's what happened when i did it.

-i adjusted the q bias.
-then put the shorting connector on the 2 pins closest to the edge of the board to take r44 out of the circuit
-then i put my meter across TP10 and 11. 
-zero adjust wouldn't do anything so I had to twiddle with both trimmers until i started seeing some change in value and the needle moving.
-once i got some movement i went through adjusting the null setting, then 0 adjust, then null, then o adj., back and forth until they settled.
-then i put the shorting connector back in its "NORM" position and the GR needle went lower a couple db.
-***Questionable step*** I then just adjusted the 0 adj. trimmer to make it 0 and left the null alone.  (I think in one of mnats cal videos it mentioned that you will be adjusting the 0 adjust later, but to leave the null alone once calibrated originally. i interpreted that into this step.)


I'd still like to know if that last step is proper procedure.  I haven't completely absorbed the original manual, and the 2 calibration walkthroughs (videos on mnats site and that link you posted a few posts back) I've seen didn't mention to do that.

hope that helps some.  maybe someone else who calibrated theirs can step in and confirm or rip apart some of these findings.  ;D

 

[SaMpLeGoD]

I calibrated the Q adjust, easy.
I calibrated the GR 0 and tracking, easy.  (i have the stock 2k trimmer in instead of the 5k)

I'd like to said that,

for the gr calibration the vu meter change when i put the jumper near R44 is it normal?

Yes it is... now u need to adjust the zero GR again with R71! And you all set fo tracking adjusment!
Cheers,

Eddie

 

[phishman13]

Yes it is... now u need to adjust the zero GR again with R71! And you all set fo tracking adjusment!
Cheers,

Eddie

Thanks for that confirmation!

Hey, also I read a few posts back about some resistor changes you made on the ratio and main board.  Where did you find that values?  or did you find them yourself?  Would you mind posting the changes you made?

I'd appreciate it very much!

 

[SaMpLeGoD]

You can find that Here
R46 is on the main board, 130k and jumper are in the ratio's board (pushbuttoms version)
It will solve the plosive's problem!!... mine works perfect, and I do love the "All pushuttons pressed" mode! actualy you only need to press the 4 and 20 togheter to has the effect I'm talking about!
Hope it helps!

Eddie