[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[sr1200]

sorry, yes, you're right, it was very late, and was a long day LOL.  Leave the resistor out until it is time to calibrate...

 

[creal]

sorry, yes, you're right, it was very late, and was a long day LOL.  Leave the resistor out until it is time to calibrate...

thanks, exactly the same thing here, very busy week with long day at work.
But next week is is free time out of work, perfect time for DIY and finish the projects in progress.

Do you used the 2N5088s for Q7, 8, 9 10?
Best,
Cyril

 

[sr1200]

I used 2N3707's on both of mine.

 

[creal]

you are a lucky guy, i have test over 20 pieces and i don't have one with hfe >250.
So i ordred 20 2N5088s.

 

[sr1200]

Id like to know if its possible to use 3711's instead.  HFE min on those is like 180... as opposed to 100 on the 3707s or (most likely) im reading something wrong.

 

[creal]

Id like to know if its possible to use 3711's instead.  HFE min on those is like 180... as opposed to 100 on the 3707s or (most likely) im reading something wrong.

i don't know if the 3711 are suitable for the RevD, But i have 4 or 5 3707s at home with hfe between 200 and 210.
I don't need them so if you like, i can send them to you

 

[sr1200]

I have a tape roll with them still on it from an old project i never got around to... i was more wondering cause the specs are identical except the HFE floor is way higher.

 

[timmygrimm]

I'm finally getting my build done!!

Currently I'm experiencing the following issue:

When I trace a signal, I get a good, compressed signal up until Q5. One side (which I presume is the input) sounds great, and the next side is horribly distorted a la fuzz factory. I am getting the proper 26volt reading. Is the part likely bad or should I look elsewhere? I'm using 3708s.

Thanks!!!

Tim

 

[ILOVE1176]

Wooooooooohooooooooo!

Just completed my build and turned it on for the first time and nothing blew up or started smoking!!!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Calibration time!!!!

wish me luck!

 

[sr1200]

Go grab a bite to eat... leave it on for a while. let it burn in a bit.

 

[dbonin]

Out of frustration I turned to alcohol.
Alcohol and a tooth brush.

I brushed the back of her with vigor, determined to remove all the plac and tarter.  I grabbed some dental floss and cleaned those hard to reach places.  My dentist would have been proud.

I let her dry, plugged her in and let her sit, warming up for about 30 minutes - I wanted to take it slow tonight so I left her alone. Tonight was going to be special.  When I returned to the room she was basking in a warm glow, laying open and waiting on top of my bench.  My investment in alcohol was indeed a good one.  The sound of  a Fender bass, slapping and sliding funky notes drifted in from outside.

I tweaked and twisted and probed my way past first base - q-bias - such a tease.  "Yes!"  I hissed.
I injected her with hertz and I tweaked and I twisted and I probed  - things were really starting to heat up, I could feel it.  I stood over second base, looking down at her, triumphant that I had made it this far with her.  zero on r74 and zero on the vu - second base NEVER felt this satisfying  before.

Third base was literally waiting beneath my probes.  I injected her again with the same intensity as before.  Her meter responded.  On.  Off.  Tweaking her input, her output - watching her respond and then.... "Fluxxxxxx!"  I yelled.

But only she hadn't made it.  Maybe she was faking it all along? 


The final calibration step (third base, baby), just using the front panel knobs, doesn't seem to work as Mnats video.  I can get the meter to go from 0 to -10 if i set it up and then use the push buttons:  GR "on" - zero vu
hit +8 on the meter button - the vu drops to -10 vu

When I use the knob to switch GR on/off I see no movement of the meter the way mnats shows it. 


I can't believe I made it this far with her only to walk away blue, if you know what I mean.  I'm going to buy more alcohol and try to get to third base again tonight.  It's Friday and tonight I'm gonna score, I can just feel it!

 

[sr1200]

The alcohol isn't going to fix anything unless there is a lot of conductive residue on the board (which there shouldnt be). 
First, make sure you put the jumper BACK into the cirucuit. 
Second, VU mode in the video = +4 on the pushbutton version. 
Third, make sure when you engage the compressor you turn the attack ALL the way up, dont just click the knob on, go all the way(the fastest attack setting). 
Fourth.  Instead of guessing (putting the knobs at 50% 50%) crank the input volume ALL the way up (max) and bring the OUTPUT up to get to 0 on the meter.

If when you disengage the compressor you get no drop check the following:
1) make sure the wires on the back of the attack pot (switch part no the pot part) are wired to the board properly
2) make sure you have continuity from the molex connector on the Ratio board to the main PCB
3) check that Pin 4 on the ratio board has continuity to the TOP CENTER POLE of the switches (by top im referring to the top center pole while it is installed in the traditional vertical position... if you have no continuity there you may have to jumper it (see germoju's posts on previous pages)

 

[wthrelfall]

Out of frustration I turned to alcohol.
Alcohol and a tooth brush.

I brushed the back of her with vigor, determined to remove all the plac and tarter.  I grabbed some dental floss and cleaned those hard to reach places.  My dentist would have been proud.

I let her dry, plugged her in and let her sit, warming up for about 30 minutes - I wanted to take it slow tonight so I left her alone. Tonight was going to be special.  When I returned to the room she was basking in a warm glow, laying open and waiting on top of my bench.  My investment in alcohol was indeed a good one.  The sound of  a Fender bass, slapping and sliding funky notes drifted in from outside.

I tweaked and twisted and probed my way past first base - q-bias - such a tease.  "Yes!"  I hissed.
I injected her with hertz and I tweaked and I twisted and I probed  - things were really starting to heat up, I could feel it.  I stood over second base, looking down at her, triumphant that I had made it this far with her.  zero on r74 and zero on the vu - second base NEVER felt this satisfying  before.

Third base was literally waiting beneath my probes.  I injected her again with the same intensity as before.  Her meter responded.  On.  Off.  Tweaking her input, her output - watching her respond and then.... "Fluxxxxxx!"  I yelled.

But only she hadn't made it.  Maybe she was faking it all along? 


The final calibration step (third base, baby), just using the front panel knobs, doesn't seem to work as Mnats video.  I can get the meter to go from 0 to -10 if i set it up and then use the push buttons:  GR "on" - zero vu
hit +8 on the meter button - the vu drops to -10 vu

When I use the knob to switch GR on/off I see no movement of the meter the way mnats shows it. 


I can't believe I made it this far with her only to walk away blue, if you know what I mean.  I'm going to buy more alcohol and try to get to third base again tonight.  It's Friday and tonight I'm gonna score, I can just feel it!

I had a pretty similar day with my hot lady..  and i also had that problem on the final calibration..  I realised that when you disengage the shorting cable to ground, you turn UP the input knob if the needle doesn't drop as far as -10db, and turn DOWN the input if the needle falls further than -10db - I was doing it the opposite way (seemed logical) and got stuck for a while...  now it's working like a creamy dream boat covered in choclate sprinkles 

 

[dbonin]

The alcohol isn't going to fix anything unless there is a lot of conductive residue on the board (which there shouldnt be). 
First, make sure you put the jumper BACK into the cirucuit. 
Second, VU mode in the video = +4 on the pushbutton version. 
Third, make sure when you engage the compressor you turn the attack ALL the way up, dont just click the knob on, go all the way(the fastest attack setting). 
Fourth.  Instead of guessing (putting the knobs at 50% 50%) crank the input volume ALL the way up (max) and bring the OUTPUT up to get to 0 on the meter.

If when you disengage the compressor you get no drop check the following:
1) make sure the wires on the back of the attack pot (switch part no the pot part) are wired to the board properly
2) make sure you have continuity from the molex connector on the Ratio board to the main PCB
3) check that Pin 4 on the ratio board has continuity to the TOP CENTER POLE of the switches (by top im referring to the top center pole while it is installed in the traditional vertical position... if you have no continuity there you may have to jumper it (see germoju's posts on previous pages)

Thanks Sr1200 and wthrelfall - I'll be trying both of your suggestions tonight.  As far as cleaning the flux, it was the only thing I did that allowed me to get step 2 to finally work - there was a fair but of flux in and around some of the very close leads.  Nonetheless, it's cleaned up nicely and it's behaiving much better.  TLC is all she needed.  I hope tonight is the night!

 

[ILOVE1176]

Hi guys, I am ready to calibrate but I need some advice and help. The calibration videos aren't of the push button version so I'm slightly confused as to what buttons should be engaged and which knobs turne ect. Do I still need to bypass my build via shorting it as in the video? Also, what's the best way to run a 1khz tone into the unit from my daw?

Thanks in advance

 

[wthrelfall]

Hi guys, I am ready to calibrate but I need some advice and help. The calibration videos aren't of the push button version so I'm slightly confused as to what buttons should be engaged and which knobs turne ect. Do I still need to bypass my build via shorting it as in the video? Also, what's the best way to run a 1khz tone into the unit from my daw?

Thanks in advance

ignore the fact that on the video they use rotary's - you have the same settings available but with push buttons.  Just punch in the settings that he describes.  And yes, you should short to ground as described (at least that's what I did and it worked).  I just attached a cable to the grounding on the case and held the other end to the little screw on the header that clamps the cable to pad.  that shorts the connection in the same manner as the video.
good luck!


ps. If you have a mixer with VU meter, just send a 1khz tone to the compressor via the desk.  adjust the volume from the daw so that the tone hits 0VU on your desk, (I think it's usually about -18db on the daw).  if you don't have a mixer you could just send -18db tone straight to the compressor from your soundcard, but check for yourself that -18db is the appropriate 0vu figure as i'm not 100% certain.

 

[ILOVE1176]

Hi guys, I get absolutely no movement on my meter when I adjust the q bias trimmer? Any idea what could be wrong? I have everything set up as in the video?

 

[ILOVE1176]

Fixed it! Seems the trimmers were waaaaaaaaaaaay out! Needed to turn the screws helluva lot before anything happened.

 

[number2]

hello,

i did a search for "alternate resistors" btw. I'm totally new and I hate noise so i have read that vishay resistors will eliminate hiss. So here are the product details for a Xicon resistor in the hairball BOM.
If I convert this Xicon resistor to a Vishay, which of the following specs am I concerned with?

If I go beyond the spec value will that work? For example, for voltage rating, if I get 500 volts rather than 350 (as seen below)? or if the temp goes from -55 to 175 C instead?

smaller dimensions OK?
power rating of 1watt instead of 2?

Product Category: Metal Oxide Resistors
RoHS: Details
Resistance: 1.1 KOhms
Tolerance: 5 %
Power Rating: 2 Watts
Voltage Rating: 350 Volts
Temperature Coefficient: 350 PPM / C
Termination Style: Axial
Operating Temperature Range: - 55 C to + 235 C
Dimensions: 5 mm Dia. x 12 mm L
Packaging: Bulk
Product: Power Resistors Metal Oxide

 

[dbonin]

SM7b -> Neve 1272 -> 1176 Rev D = AWSOME!!  This thing sounds great.  My meter, while not perfectly calibrated, is displaying reasonable movement with regards to compression and output levels - at the end of the day it's about using your ears and I'm fine with that.

Thanks to all that have helped me.  Hairball, mnats and the DIY community.

Cheers!