[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[Stagefright13]

Yeah that's why I mentioned it on the previous page. I did the same thing. Don't feel bad. I didn't even get my finger off the switch and that resistor had already gone to a better place lol!

 

[Echo North]

I have no idea how I missed all the references to this.  ;D

 

[SaMpLeGoD]

Hey... I'm looking to stereo link my REV D with my other mnta's based REV F. Is this possible? need I to build another extra circuit like in the MC76? just to know... to stereo connect the REV Fs is just connect a wire  :-\ or, of course if the fets are not matched, use the easly to build UA Stereo box.
Any ideas?

Eddie ;D

 

[Stagefright13]

The rev D is a different compressor with a class A output. I doubt they even sound the same.

 

[SaMpLeGoD]

Yeah, you're right, they sound really different... I just asked that to be sure I can't connect 2x 1176 REV D's withou any other extra circuit... now I see if I want to connect 2 of them, need a extra circuit like the MC76  :-[

Thanks

Eddie 

 

[Siegfried Meier]

I posted a while back with my Rev D's and input level.  I'm using the Cinemag inputs.  Mnats hinted at turning the cinemag around so that I would be able to hit it with more level, and have it not compress so soon.  Well, I swapped one of them today (I built 2 units) and...the level in and out is identical on both units...

How is this possible, if the transformer is oriented differently in both units???  (scratches head)

How have others oriented their Cinemag CMMI 2PCA input transformers for their Rev D's?

Thanks,
Sig

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Anyone build a Rev D with Cinemag transformers at all besides me?  :-[

Thanks,
Sig

Edit - I think the Cinemag orientation has nothing to do with the level getting in, as I've experienced - both ways sound the same, and react the same.  The units in bypass have great in and out level, I will try the 470k threshold mod and see if this corrects my issues.

 

[Skylar]

EDIT: duplicate information deleted

 

[mitsos]

wow.. that's awesome! Thanks for making it simple for the rest of us!

 

[Echo North]

You are awesome Skylar!

This is a great reference.

Mike

 

[ethervalve]

That's amazing Skylar! What a kindly soul you are for sharing.

 

[0dbfs]

http://www.equinoxsystems.net/DIY/SG-1176-RevD-Wiring_ALL.pdf

Hey Thanks!

I'll dig into this when I start assembling my Dual-RevA. It looks like it will be an excellent reference even with the slight differences.

Cheers,
jonathan

 

[Echo North]

Yes, please note there is some difference with the REV D V2 and A connections.  Specifically with the output transformer and the ground pad by pad 7.

Always best to check against the schematic!

Mike

 

[Skylar]

Yes, please note there is some difference with the REV D V2 and A connections.  Specifically with the output transformer and the ground pad by pad 7.

Always best to check against the schematic!

Mike

Yes, I should add a disclaimer:

My wiring guide was made while building one of mnats' original rev D boards, so if you have a newer board, there will be some slight differences!

But if you're following the schematic/new board layout like good boys and girls, you can easily note these differences and move forward!

 

[Stagefright13]

This may be a long shot Siegfried but I always put a couple pieces of wire under the input transformer to space it up from the board slightly before soldering. The reason for this is so when the solder flows to the upper side of the board it will prevent it from touching the can of the transformer on the underside. Especially if too much solder is used. I doubt that is your problem but is a good measure to use anyway...

John

 

[Echo North]

Well I assume there are some people like me who never get sick of seeing finished projects so here goes...

Disclaimer: Sorry these pics suck...I am the worst photographer on the planet. 

Here are a pair of beauties a built over the holidays.

Front of Both

VU and Pushbuttons

Inside one unit...they both look the same inside 

Rear of VU showing pushbutton mounting discussed in other thread

I had a great time...no major issues.

Notes:
-  I have RCA connectors on the back for eventual stereo connection.  I will deal with this later.
-  Put the "0 adjust" multi turn put up near the front panel using a little bracket...adjustable through a hole in the front like the original.
-  Mounting the pushbuttons with a set screw and a little J-B Weld seems solid.  Very solid.
-  GR Disable is on the attack knob like the original.
-  Both units are reading a THD+N of 0.036% following the Purple Audio procedure.  I believe this to be good.
-  One of the unit's ratios are a little high (around 6.5, 12, 15, 30 if I recall).  The other unit's ratios are correct.  I'll look into this in a bit...too tired right now.
- Used Skylar's input grounding technique...both units are dead quiet.
- I mounted my on board trimmers backwards...which is fine...just have to turn the trimmers in the opposite direction the calibration manuals say...but you haven't built yours yet...go the opposite way I did

I think that's it!

I'm lending them to a local studio for a few weeks to get some feedback.  They have a pair of original D's and will give them a good work and provide a better review than I could give.

Thanks Mako and everyone who chips in on the thread!

Mike

 

[Chrome Heart]

Well I assume there are some people like me who never get sick of seeing finished projects so here goes...

Disclaimer: Sorry these pics suck...I am the worst photographer on the planet. 

Here are a pair of beauties a built over the holidays.

Front of Both

VU and Pushbuttons

Inside one unit...they both look the same inside 

Rear of VU showing pushbutton mounting discussed in other thread

I had a great time...no major issues.

Notes:
-  I have RCA connectors on the back for eventual stereo connection.  I will deal with this later.
-  Put the "0 adjust" multi turn put up near the front panel using a little bracket...adjustable through a hole in the front like the original.
-  Mounting the pushbuttons with a set screw and a little J-B Weld seems solid.  Very solid.
-  GR Disable is on the attack knob like the original.
-  Both units are reading a THD+N of 0.036% following the Purple Audio procedure.  I believe this to be good.
-  One of the unit's ratios are a little high (around 6.5, 12, 15, 30 if I recall).  The other unit's ratios are correct.  I'll look into this in a bit...too tired right now.
- Used Skylar's input grounding technique...both units are dead quiet.

I think that's it!

I'm lending them to a local studio for a few weeks to get some feedback.  They have a pair of original D's and will give them a good work and provide a better review than I could give.

Thanks Mako and everyone who chips in on the thread!

Mike

Very Nice. 8)

 

[mitsos]

wow... that is some beeuutiful work. Very nice.

question... what did you use for the GR OFF? A pot with a built-in switch? Is this something available from mouser?

 

[Echo North]

Thanks!

Yes sir...pot with a SPDT switch in the fully CCW position.

Mouser part # 315-2415F-25K

Mike

 

[mitsos]

thank you!