[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

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canidoit said:
- Which is + and - on the Mnats altran input transformer pcb board that connects to the "in" of the Main Mnats PC board?

See Skylar's rev. 3 drawing.

- How do you wire the Hairball Fet Compressor Pot attenuator? Skylar has a different pot for his diagram? Is there a wiring diagram or instructions for wiring the Hairball Fet Compressor pot somewhere?

See Matta's attenuator drawing.

Hairball Meter Push Button PCB board
- Also, if you use the SPDT switch on the attack pot, how does it change the wiring for the Hairball Meter board and Skylars diagram?

Read the section regarding SPDT switch wiring in the Hairball pushbutton guide. Then disregard the switch wiring (pad 22, GRN and BLK) shown on Skylar's drawing as you are switching using a different switch.
 
rodabod said:
See Skylar's rev. 3 drawing.
Are you saying J pad 4 side is where - is on the actual Altran PC board? I can't tell how he is facing the board on his pic. I have my boards positioned differently?

rodabod said:
See Matta's attenuator drawing.
Whos Matta? Where is this drawing you speak of? Is it a drawing of Hairballs T-pad or the other one with the 2 resistors?

 
1176_attenuator.jpg

Is this what I follow?
 
canidoit said:
rodabod said:
See Skylar's rev. 3 drawing.
Are you saying J pad 4 side is where - is on the actual Altran PC board? I can't tell how he is facing the board on his pic. I have my boards positioned differently?

I don't understand your sentence, but basically, hot goes into Altran PCB pad 2, and comes out of the pad labelled (+). Cold goes into pad 4 and comes out pad (-). Or you can just look at Skylar's drawing and figure it out from their location. It'll only affect phase which you can corrrect with the swap of two wires wherever the signal is balanced. You should check phase when the unit is finished anyway; people here who wired the output transformer with red to cold, and blue to hot probably have the phase reversed.

Roddy
 
canidoit said:
- Which is + and - on the Mnats altran input transformer pcb board that connects to the "in" of the Main Mnats PC board?
Can I ask why you aren't using one of the Altran-only boards that Mike distributes with the input transformers? I designed them specifically to remove any doubt about how to wire the Altran as there are no alternate transformer or H pad options to confuse the builder. The - and + is clearly marked on those boards.
 
mnats said:
canidoit said:
- Which is + and - on the Mnats altran input transformer pcb board that connects to the "in" of the Main Mnats PC board?
Can I ask why you aren't using one of the Altran-only boards that Mike distributes with the input transformers? I designed them specifically to remove any doubt about how to wire the Altran as there are no alternate transformer or H pad options to confuse the builder. The - and + is clearly marked on those boards.
I bought the Altran from Mike in a 1176 Full Kit before he started providing the new Transformer boards with the Altran. Where is the + and - on your old boards Mnats?
 
Hello all,

I'm having some issues calibrating my 1176LN Rev D. I check and double check all the connections and everything seems to be ok. The calibration priocedure I did without problems... and after that putting some audio, it's compressing and the sound is nice and the unit is doing what is suppose.
But I have some questions:
- When I have my attack pot "off" (I use the SPDT switch on the pot) wired like Mike said, and put 0dB (0.775VAc) between Input's XLR pin 2 and 3 (actualy I shunt pin 3 with pin 1, and inject the signal from my function generator in ther pin 2 and the 1+3)... Is normal when I'm in +4 (reading the output), if I switch between the ratios I read different values on the meter??? is it happen on the original? it's not supposed the meter stays still? really don't understand... I realize that when I was trying to make the graphic for the ratio's curve...
I really need some help... it's a strange behaviour I think...

Cheers,

Eddie  ???
 
wireCheck3.jpg


Is this black wire in the middle's pot switch goes to the ratio board too? or am I miss understanding the image?
I thought this wire goes directly to the main board pad 22 only.. is this correct??

Cheers and really thanks for the images!!

Eddie :)
 
canidoit said:
I bought the Altran from Mike in a 1176 Full Kit before he started providing the new Transformer boards with the Altran. Where is the + and - on your old boards Mnats?

I started shipping dedicated input transformer boards in February which was a few months before your order.  You should have received the board in the same bag as your input.  If you did not, that is my error and I would be happy to ship one to you right away.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Is this black wire in the middle's pot switch goes to the ratio board too? or am I miss understanding the image?
I thought this wire goes directly to the main board pad 22 only.. is this correct??

No that common lead/lug should not be going to the ratio board.
 
Just a question,

The GR mode is "on" when we get the pad 22 connected with the green on the ratio board, isn't it?
Cheers,

Eddie  ???
 
SaMpLeGoD said:

So, when the connection that I have on my is wrong... and in this picture is wrong too... because when I switch "on" the pot... it connects the middle lug with the CCW lug (that what's happening in this picture that you have the "black" connection there), and otherwise, with the switch off it connects the middle lug (pad 22) with the CW lug (I'm seeing the pot from the front, from the knob view).

But nevermind, because I tried both ways and the result is equal... and it is supposed not to be that way, in both cases the comp is always compressing, and with the GR off with 0dB signal on the input, with meter in +4 mode (reading output), it changes between switching the ratios... it's not supposed to happen...
I should have some problem on the main board actually, because I check all the connections... and it seems to be OK.

Any Clue??

Cheers,

Eddie :)
 
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

I think there's a missunderstandig in one thing in your schematic Mike,
In the ratio board you say as "black" the shield from 22 pad, and you're right in saying that! but, in the wiring information you only saying to connect the pad 22 to the pot switch's central lug, that's right, seeing from the front of the pot (knob view) the CCW lug is connected with the "green" pad on the ratio board, and the CW one with the ratio's "black" pad... but in any time your saying that we need to connect the switch's pot CCW lug to ground too! is that needed because is the only way you have to connect the pad 22 to ground... in other words... you need to connect the shield that are coming beside from pad 22 with the CCW lug too.. so when you put the GR off you're shunting the pad 22 to ground... tied that, all the problems gone and the unit now is responsing 100% the way I expected...

I think this is just one smoth question, that makes a large difference :)

Thanks a lot Mike! awesome work, I'm loving your stuff, love the in and out trafos... tomorrow I'll finally compare my unit with the real 1176LN Black Face ;)
I'll post the results!!!

Cheers,

Eddie  ;D
 
SaMpLeGoD said:
Is this black wire in the middle's pot switch goes to the ratio board too? or am I miss understanding the image?
I thought this wire goes directly to the main board pad 22 only.. is this correct??

Cheers and really thanks for the images!!

Eddie :)
O.K. hopefully this is more clear on exactly what I have done. I am following Skylar diagram and a mixture of what I perceive to be what Hairball was telling me.
wireCheck3.jpg


Mike, I did not receive the new boards for the Altran Transformer.
 
canidoit said:
SaMpLeGoD said:
Is this black wire in the middle's pot switch goes to the ratio board too? or am I miss understanding the image?
I thought this wire goes directly to the main board pad 22 only.. is this correct??

Cheers and really thanks for the images!!

Eddie :)
O.K. hopefully this is more clear on exactly what I have done. I am following Skylar diagram and a mixture of what I perceive to be what Hairball was telling me.
wireCheck3.jpg

Yes.. that's it!!but I still suggest you to verify with the multimeter, if when the switch turned "off" the pad 22 goes to the ground ("black"), and when it's turned "on" if the pad 22 is connected with ratio's "green" pad.
What I've done was just take the shield I had cutted off from my pad 22's cable, and grab the shield again and attach this shield to the lug where the ratio's "black" are connected... this way I'm sure when I turn off the GR, the pad 22 goes to ground for sure...
My unit now is working propertly in any ways!
Tomorrow I'll compare with the original 1176LN Black Face ;)
I'll post the results!

Cheers!

Eddie ;D
 

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