[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[wkbdgeorge]

ok, cool.  

I can see how it could be slightly confusing seeing as though the transformer throws 0v or 25v after the color, when that isnt true for this specific application.  

-G

 

[Josiah]

Thanks for the info Mike, I will check the push button insertion angle...however; the buttons are not getting stuck as far as physical movement inward or outward. They are not switching off (only on 4 and 8 though). Almost like the poles on the inside of the switch are not dis-engaging.

 

[Echo North]

These new switches are super dependable but it's possible it's a bad switch.

If the switch is slightly rubbing against the hole opening it will not disengage. You need to have clearance on all sides which requires small adjustments to the angle, bracket mounting and enclosure mounting.

You can test by pulling the switch out of the case.  If it works fine on it's own, you need to fine tune the mounting.  if it's not working on it's own, it's broken and you'll need to email me.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[bootyfox]

Behold! behold!

Just wanted to say that I just finished building my two hairball rev d editions! It's my first (finished) diy build, so imagine the suspense when plugging it in and powering it up for the first time!

They worked! Both of them! No hum, no noise, great compression, wonderful sound! So this post is not exactly a cry for help, but a big big thank you to Mnats, Hairball, Gyraf and of course this forum!

There is so much info here that I never had to ask a single question. Instead: Searching, checking, printing, double checking, doing.
I can't believe that from now on I will be running audio through those two!
So now that I am not afraid anymore of wiring anything (little did he know), I feel encouraged to move on to new DIY horizons.

Anyway, gotta go to bed. Hmmm...might take my 1176s along actually.

 

[Josiah]

I can figure out the button issue with a little more testing on my end....will report back later on this issue.

A little clarification is needed on a new issue though. I have my input pot running at a higher level than I would like. Almost as if I am 5dB off approximately. I am not able to over-drive the unit. So I can hear the compression working, but I should not have to insert such a hot signal to get it to work. The XLR to the input pot is fine, output from pot to input transformer is good, and the input transformer to PCB is matching.

 

[Echo North]

Behold! behold!

Just wanted to say that I just finished building my two hairball rev d editions! It's my first (finished) diy build, so imagine the suspense when plugging it in and powering it up for the first time!

They worked! Both of them! No hum, no noise, great compression, wonderful sound! So this post is not exactly a cry for help, but a big big thank you to Mnats, Hairball, Gyraf and of course this forum!

There is so much info here that I never had to ask a single question. Instead: Searching, checking, printing, double checking, doing.
I can't believe that from now on I will be running audio through those two!
So now that I am not afraid anymore of wiring anything (little did he know), I feel encouraged to move on to new DIY horizons.

Anyway, gotta go to bed. Hmmm...might take my 1176s along actually.

Awesome!

Congrats and great work.

Mike

 

[jandoste]

No hum, no noise,

I got them I tried to fine the problem today but I couldn't fine ! any idea?
Thanks

 

[Echo North]

A little clarification is needed on a new issue though. I have my input pot running at a higher level than I would like. Almost as if I am 5dB off approximately. I am not able to over-drive the unit. So I can hear the compression working, but I should not have to insert such a hot signal to get it to work. The XLR to the input pot is fine, output from pot to input transformer is good, and the input transformer to PCB is matching.

Check your Q bias:

Input = "24" mid rotation
Output = "24" mid rotation
Attack = full CCW (switched to off position)
Release = full CW
Compression ratio = 20:1
Meter mode = "GR"
Q-bias adjustment = full CCW

Apply a signal (1 KHz, O dB) to the input, and adjust the output to read +11db as read on an
external meter. Slowly turn the Q-bias adjust (R59) CW until a drop of 1 dB occurs, and the
external meter reads +10db. This places the gain reduction FET Q1 slightly into conduction.

I like to use my DMM to measure the audio at the output XLR.  You need a decent meter though that can handle high frequencies.

Mike

 

[Josiah]

I have done all the adjustments as indicated (a few times), but the input signal is still weak. I am using the Pro Tools signal generator to input the signal to the compressor, is this potentially causing some problems with the 0dBVU calibration?

 

[SSLtech]

I have done all the adjustments as indicated (a few times), but the input signal is still weak. I am using the Pro Tools signal generator to input the signal to the compressor, is this potentially causing some problems with the 0dBVU calibration?

How are you connecting to the unit? What interface? -Is the A-to-D converter output balanced or unbalanced?

Keith

 

[jandoste]

No hum, no noise,

I got them I tried to fine the problem today but I couldn't fine ! any idea?
Thanks

I'm still here Any idea ?  the Output has noise and hum ? I am trying with pro tools HD 96 i/o!.
Thanks

 

[wowi]

Hi, i just got the common problem with R32. I wired the output Tranny wrong and R32 went up in smoke. I replaced R32 and wired up correctly (checked 3 times). Now R32 does not explode, but get very hot and after 1 hour is gone.

Someone got an idea ? I am pretty shure, the wiring is correct. When R32 is gone, i can measure 9,92 V on one side, nothing on the other.

Wolfgang

 

[wkbdgeorge]

Hi everyone,  I've just gave birth to 2 rev d's and they are great.  I'm posting to give a heads up on a couple things that I found along the way.  So I built both boards at the same time because I wanted a very stereo ready pair.  I then proceeded to do the internal wiring of the hairball kit to the board.  Powered up the first unit and everything seemed to be good.

However, I was getting a little hum and when the output knob was near max the unit would freak out and oscillate.  What I found was my problem was that signal ground wasnt connected to chassis ground anywhere.  After I hooked that up, the problem went away! 

I also implemented hairball's link boards.  I had a problem initially, but found it was a fault of mine again.  Be sure to put those jumper wires in both boards!  I did it on one, but forgot the other.  After it was correctly built, all was good. 

So those are a couple things to think about if you find a similar problem with yours.

  I just put mine up against a Purple, A urie, A UA-reissue, and an 1178.  For all those wondering about revisions, I gotta tell you, dont sweat it too much.  I did the test in 3 studios but all had the same lynx aurora converters.  Listened on b&w, proac, and custom speakers and on all the sets, the different revisions and makes weren't all that different.  The urie seemed to have the most hair and presence, but that could be that its way out of calibration, who knows.  The mnats rev d was very very close to the purple and very close to the ua-reissue.  All had very very similar sound.  So my advice is go with whatever one you feel draws you in and be happy and if you have the money, build another revision, cant hurt. Thanks Mike and Mnats!    -George

 

[ElektricEye]

Hello everyone! This is my first post, and I really want to build the Rev D 1176. I'm not a total beginner as my experience with DIY projects includes 8 preamps from SCA all various pres.

I was looking at buying all the parts, but I immediately noticed that many of the capacitors in the BOM (mnats PDF File) do not include the voltage rating. Like C1 for example, it shows a 1uf film, but no rating. However the 5th cap in the BOM gives a voltage rating of 35v.

I tried searching and reading up on stuff but I feel stuck before I begin, maybe someone here can help me out? Is this something you have to just figure out by looking at the schematic or how do I know which voltage ratings these need?

Thanks!
Mike

 

[Stagefright13]

Kato made a great BOM for this project earlier in the thread. I may have made a few substitutions here and there. But his BOM will produce a perfect sounding one. It's not the "Cheapo" route but does produce an awesome sounding one. And who want's to make a experimental one for their first 1176? Judas Priest would be proud of Kato's bom LOL! Mr. Electric eye.

I'll look and see if I can link it to you.

John

P.S. Thanks Kato once again for your effort!

 

[Stagefright13]

This seems to be it http://nimbleswitch.com/diy/1176_revD/index.php?page=parts

But be aware this is not a good first project. You will need transistor test equipment to make it work properly and be usable. And at some point work with wall socket voltages! I see you have done other projects successfully. At the minimum you will need some kind of signal generator. (Protools and other recording Daw will be fine) Most of us have that or a signal generator for calibrating a tape deck...

Even Radio Shack has a meter with hfe on it for transistors. Other than that the project is fairly simple If you can read schematics and Mnats boards are almost impossible to mess up. Perfect solder mask, good spacing etc. And Mike at Hairball supplies everything that was impossible to get before.  

Wish you happy squishing!

John

 

[viking99]

Help Please!  On the circuit I have for 1176 rev D  from MNATS there is a switch shown at the input to the GR Control Amp. it feeds onto C17.
Where is this switch as it has no designation etc?

 

[wkbdgeorge]

Hi again, So my 1176s have been pretty happy.  No wierd sounds.  HOWEVER, has anyone else been blowing fuses upon turn on?  The fuse never blows while its on, but then after its been off for a little, every once in a while, the fuse blows. 

Im using these fuses at mouser number 693-0034.3111
  5X20 250V 250mA Time delay/slowblo

Any thoughts?

 

[pH]

Hey, I've had the same problem lately with the popping fuses. Weird thing is it's the same build I've been using for a while as a rotary version, just put it into a pushbutton case and the trouble began. Maybe somehow the power switching gives a bigger surge - I upped the fuse to 375mA and it seems to be holding better...

 

[wkbdgeorge]

ph-  good to hear someone else is running into this.  My units are the pushbutton and not the rotary.  Can anyone else confirm that moving up in amperage is an ok thing?  Is the heart of the problem coming from a switch issue?

Just to check, Im switching just one side of the iec supply.  So the neutral wires of the transformer go directly to the neutral iec, then the high gets fused, then to the switch, then to the transformer.  Is this right? 

Is anyone else blowing fuses with the hairball push switches?