[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[Futureman]

I searched around, but found no real definite answer.

Has anyone here successfully made a SideChain input for this 1176?

I can sort of read schematics..  But parts of the 1176 Schematic do confuse me a little.

Would you inject a signal at the Gain reduction switch? or after C7 ? Add a buffer ?

(I'm guessing replace the signal that leads into the GR control AMP ( C7 & R23 & R78 junction)

I'm more than happy to post my findings + schematics for the newbs like me to help others getting a SC working for a 1176.

Kind regards
Mike

 

[tanis4457]

I'm trying to verify that I have the EA-2002 hairball kit output transformer wired up correctly before I power it up. I've read that the hairball output transformer has secondaries that are the opposite of the original schematic so I'm assuming red is now + and blue is - is this correct? I currently have it wired blue + red - as per the original schmeatic but I'd like verfication.
Thanks

 

[Echo North]

I'm trying to verify that I have the EA-2002 hairball kit output transformer wired up correctly before I power it up. I've read that the hairball output transformer has secondaries that are the opposite of the original schematic so I'm assuming red is now + and blue is - is this correct? I currently have it wired blue + red - as per the original schmeatic but I'd like verfication.
Thanks

Nooooooo.

Secondaries are the same.  + is blue.

The only difference is that orange and yellow are internally connected on the original and they are externally connected on the EA-5002. 

Mike

 

[tanis4457]

I'm trying to verify that I have the EA-2002 hairball kit output transformer wired up correctly before I power it up. I've read that the hairball output transformer has secondaries that are the opposite of the original schematic so I'm assuming red is now + and blue is - is this correct? I currently have it wired blue + red - as per the original schmeatic but I'd like verfication.
Thanks

Nooooooo.

Secondaries are the same.  + is blue.

The only difference is that orange and yellow are internally connected on the original and they are externally connected on the EA-5002. 

Mike

ahh thank you very much, I see that of the "quick" wiring guides floating around have red going to + but I've found more faith in following the 1176 manual, so far in the build.

 

[Echo North]

ahh thank you very much, I see that of the "quick" wiring guides floating around have red going to + but I've found more faith in following the 1176 manual, so far in the build.

Exactly!

The only correct wiring guide I have seen is the schematic in the manual.

Mike

 

[jandoste]

Yep
I got it but just the gain reduction is not correct !
http://www.youtube.com/v/p3Il7blr6Xc&hl=fr_FR&fs=1?color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd311b
Thanks Arnaud !
Thanks Mike,
Thanks Futureman!
Thanks Mako!
All the best,

 

[Josiah]

Good day everyone,

I'm new to the whole DIY audio process, but I have prior assembly experience. I'm not the best with electrical theory so please excuse my lack of experience :-\.

My question is this:

When I connect the the Avel Lindberg Y236106 power transformer I connect the Blue/Violet to Neutral, Brown/Gray to Live and ground to chassis with a substantial wire (18 gauge). Is this correct? I don't want to hurt myself...(zap)

Second; when the secondary comes out of the Avel Y236106 what wires are the center tap (I believe the 0V is center? - please verify) I have read that two wires need to be connected together and then you should be able to test 25 V? Is this right?

I know I need to read the original schematic better, but that is going to take a while to understand completely.

Thanks all!!!

 

[Echo North]

Good day everyone,

I'm new to the whole DIY audio process, but I have prior assembly experience. I'm not the best with electrical theory so please excuse my lack of experience :-\.

My question is this:

When I connect the the Avel Lindberg Y236106 power transformer I connect the Blue/Violet to Neutral, Brown/Gray to Live and ground to chassis with a substantial wire (18 gauge). Is this correct? I don't want to hurt myself...(zap)

Second; when the secondary comes out of the Avel Y236106 what wires are the center tap? I have read that two wires need to be connected together and then you should be able to test 25 VAC? I twisted the Orange/Black originally, but was not able to get the right meter readings. Question is: What wires get twisted together? I have Red, Yellow, Orange and Black? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I know I need to read the original schematic better, but that is going to take a while to understand completely.

Thanks all!!!

Have a look here:
http://www.diyfactory.com/data/transformer_connections.gif

You want your primary wired to your local mains voltage (120v/220v) and the secondary as a center tapped secondary or "split secondary" on the link.  Check the color code diagram on the side of your transformer.  Referring to colors on here can be dangerous as the lead colors may change from run to run.

L to live, N to neutral and the ground is connected as a safety ground to the chassis.  If you're using a powder-coated chassis (mine for example), scrape or sand some of the coating back to get down to bare metal at the safety ground connection point.

Mike

 

[Josiah]

Thanks for the super speedy reply... ;D

On my Avel Lindberg Y236106 power supply this is what is listed or printed on the unit:

Black: 0V
Red: 25V/0.60A
Orange: 0V
Yellow: 25V/0.60A

With that said I am figuring that 0V (Black/Orange) is my center tap? I dont want to cause a problem with the board power supply by incorrect wiring.

Thanks again!!!! I know I'm an idiot, but I am determined to get this 1176 up and running...

 

[Echo North]

Thanks for the super speedy reply... ;D

On my Avel Lindberg Y236106 power supply this is what is listed or printed on the unit:

Black: 0V
Red: 25V/0.60A
Orange: 0V
Yellow: 25V/0.60A

With that said I am figuring that 0V (Black/Orange) is my center tap? I dont want to cause a problem with the board power supply by incorrect wiring.

Thanks again!!!! I know I'm an idiot, but I am determined to get this 1176 up and running...

Look at the link picture and look at the picture on your transformer.  I don't have one in front of me, but you want the two center wires as your 0v (red/orange).  Yellow and black are you 25V leads.

Mike

 

[Josiah]

Alright...

Tested the power from the wall into the Avel Lindberg fine, but no go with the 25V on the secondary output. I confirmed the wiring colors against the drawing and the image printed on the power unit. Not sure what is wrong...and ideas?

 

[kato]

Hi Josiah, welcome to the lab!
Make sure you're using a fuse somewhere in the equation please. 
Best of luck.

 

[Josiah]

Thanks for the warning Kato...

The fuse is on the power inlet on the enclosure. No problem blowing it so far, but I'm not seeing the 25V on the split secondary as indicated on the Avel diagram.

 

[kato]

With one probe on black, and the other probe on Red+Orange, what voltage are you seeing?

Be sure to switch your multi meter to AC, not DC.

 

[Josiah]

Everything is fired up and working fine on my 1176 Rev D, however; I am in calibration mode for step 2 (Zero Set) and nothing is moving toward zero (or any direction for that matter) when I adjust. I am figuring that I put the potentiometer in wrong. The one I am using is the supplied pot with the BOM. It is a Claro 2K, what is the pin out and how does this attach to the main PCB board (specifics please)? The PDF file supplied is to be desired, with all wires colored black (frustration).

Any help would be greatly appreciated... ;D

I'm almost done with number 1...

Josiah

 

[Echo North]

Everything is fired up and working fine on my 1176 Rev D, however; I am in calibration mode for step 2 (Zero Set) and nothing is moving toward zero (or any direction for that matter) when I adjust. I am figuring that I put the potentiometer in wrong. The one I am using is the supplied pot with the BOM. It is a Claro 2K, what is the pin out and how does this attach to the main PCB board (specifics please)? The PDF file supplied is to be desired, with all wires colored black (frustration).

Any help would be greatly appreciated... ;D

I'm almost done with number 1...

Josiah

What .PDF?  Someone was asking me for a wiring guide.  I sent them a link to a user created wiring guide.  They probably printed it in B&W.  I ONLY recommend using the schematic.

The pot is a pot.  Two poles and a wiper. 

Look at the bottom of the PCB, the three leads should not be linked together.  Wire it across the bottom right to right, middle to middle, left to left.  If the pot turns the meter in the wrong direction, switch the right and left leads.

Mike

 

[wkbdgeorge]

This is in response to the conversation between josiah and hairball.  Here is a pic of what the transformer looks like. 

Would you still consider blue and violet to be your high, grey and brown to be your neutral, on the primary side for united states, then secondary would be

blk ------ 25
red/ora ---- center tap
Yel -----  25

is this correct?

-G

 

[Echo North]

Yes sir.

You always need to reference the image on the transformer in case the manufacture changes the color coding.  The colors are NOT a standard.

 

[Josiah]

Everything for step 2 is working now. I found my problem after tracing my point to point wire connections on the PCB.

Working on the gain reduction metering now...should have this one up and running soon.

Everything seems to be up and running now (very happy ), a few issues with the ratio push buttons sticking on 4 & 8. They will not dis-engage compression unless I press 20 "on" then "off". Anyone had problems with these switches?

I also have to push the input hard, meaning; I have to set my input pot to 2 o'clock vs 10 o'clock. Is this a potentially a problem with my Altran input transformer wiring?

Thanks to everyone for the help. I'm soooo close!

 

[Echo North]

The push buttons need to be centered and adjusted in the opening.  They also come out of manufacturing a little "cockeyed".  Attach them to the bracket then you need to bend them very slightly so the sit at a 90 degree angle to the bracket.  Then attach them to the case. Notice there is a bit of movement so you can center them then tighten.  You can then bend the switch (delicately) from the rear to get it sitting at a perfect 90 degrees and centered.

Mike