[Build] Neve 2254 BUILD THREAD

[kazper]

Yep those be the ones...

Everything for those PCB's is here. Gerbers, schematics , complete overlays etc..

http://www.xs4all.nl/~theostr/str-electronics/DIY/Studio_2254.htm

 

[kazper]

[quote author="crisotop"]I missed the Tat case, but that should be the smallest problem

Big :thumb: up Kazper, I'm happy someone cares about this project!

there's also some interesting info from jens using wonderlandaudio pcbs (I guess the same that the most of us are using) @ nrgrecording

I'll try to translate the first two posts:

1.) Silkscreening is not correct, some part numbers differ from the original schematic

2.) If you want to build it to 100% Neve specs you have mod the B185 card: Cut the connection from + of 470uF lytic and collector of T4; ad a connection between collector of T4 to powersupply 'F'.

hth, christoph[/quote]

I'm looking this over quickly and it seems that T4 on PCB and documents is T3 on Neve schematics.

Will look over it when I get home and have PCB in hand.

 

[Igor]

D-leted (double post)

 

[Igor]

I don't think it is very good idea to build pseudo-original
clone of 2254 on pseudo-original pcb's in a way it was done
more or less 40 years ago. Anyway.
Good luck to everyone who wants to mess with this hardcore wiring...

Just my $0.20

5 years ago, when I had a lot of time and DIY
of stidio equipment was only hobby, I had all original 2254's
cards and trunny's.
Count in good equipped lab, excellent military surplus store
in 10km from my house, and some skills in electronics.
Then...after just making some rough
time calculations, came this :
http://www.geocities.com/igor_jazz/225433609.html

Guys, I am crazy enough to build full format mixer by myself.
All these messy projects are big mistake, just think how many time
you can save for snooker, yoga, or drinking beers on the beach or pub or...whatsoever... just think twice

 

[kazper]

I agree completely with you Igor, unfortunately I already have psudo pcb's as well as others around. I've contemplated using other type transformers simply put because I have your 33609 project and think it will work for me, where I can play around with the 2254 and not worry.

Two/three pcb design would be a simplified project and more current. Your project is a excellent and well thought out design, since it was a modified version I didn't refer it because the origin of the thread was based on 2254 only.

Like I said a design that is more based on a 1RU with good quality pcb mount switches would be really cool, but the MFG is now offering something just like that.

I'm not worried about the wiring aspect of the project, myself.

 

[user 10827]

No on the contrary, its a challenge to rise to.

I will def do one of your 33609 when the PCB's are next available, for now i'm enjoying working this monster out and in the amazing event of actually ending up with a working unit, what a sense of satisfaction that will be.

thanks Igor,

respect

Pete

 

[user 10827]

re the changes to our B185 PCB's

as well as the fore mentiond

Cut the connection from + of 470uF lytic and collector of T4; ad a connection between collector of T4 to powersupply 'F'.

also there is,

R14 should be 1k8
C7 should be 150uf
R22 should be 2k7
R23 should be 2k2
C11 should be 22uf


best

Pete
[/code]

 

[lookn4tone]

What are you guys doing about the elma switches (4 per channel, I believe)? I started doing that build a while ago, and got side tracked with other projects. Mine is nearly done, but I don't have the switches. If there is enough interest, I could step up for a group buy. Thoughts?

Steve

 

[kazper]

I was going to buy direct and or get some goldpoint ones.

 

[kazper]

Larger: http://www.twin-x.com/groupdiy/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=10090&pos=-2599

Thanks to Pedro (wounderlandAudio) for this picture.

This helps clarify the BA185 Problems.

1- white
Bridge the top with the capacitor leg, place a little shrink on the leg to protect ya project and jump it to strip on the far right.

2- Blue
reverse the Bax13/1N4148 from the silkscreen

3-Yellow
Separate the connections from the large area.

 

[user 10827]

Hi Kazper,

are you saying that some of these differences might be due to the PCB designer trying to improve on the original design?

best

Pete

 

[kazper]

I'm thinking he may have had more info then we do. Rather it be a real card or multiple schematics.

In trying to make it work as the Dale schematics the changes I posted, I left some stuff out. Further investigation today (and re reading your post)pointed something else out so let me make another picture and post it.

I can tell you this I'm sure there was a mistake made on the PCB in the left hand corner. In comparing the original card to STR's stuff D6 is backwards and that helps prove it.

The fix is Simply if you do everything I had posted before but in the upper left, remove R25 from it's connection to L and connect it to the cut connection point with the C9, R20,D6 (leave as silkscreened). I got sidetracked yesterday when I was competing that. This can be done plenty of ways.

Honestly I don't know enough to say that as designed and made wouldn't work fine. I can say that in comparison to known Neve documents... this is how to get there.

Kevin

 

[kazper]

[quote author="lookn4tone"]What are you guys doing about the elma switches (4 per channel, I believe)? I started doing that build a while ago, and got side tracked with other projects. Mine is nearly done, but I don't have the switches. If there is enough interest, I could step up for a group buy. Thoughts?

Steve[/quote]

Let me know, I'll probably buy enough for mine.

But from the looks of things the Limit Switch can be replaced with a 4K7 Lin pot between R30 (2K7) and R29 (15K)

If you do the Switches, keep in mind that the resistors or on the switch as shown on the schematic.

It also looks like the threshold can be a 1K Log pot.

On Geoff's site he had talked about one of the switches always getting replaced when serviced by other's (non Neve)with a pot.

 

[kazper]

http://homepages.tesco.net/~howard.ellis/neve/Diagrams/Neve%20Limiter%20Compressor.pdf

 

[kazper]

Working on this and wanted to toss some more part numbers for those who have the Tat case

Link Switch
DPDT on-off-on

Mouser: 633-M202301-RO
NKK P/N: M2023SS1W01-RO

Power, Comp ON/OFF, Bypass
DPDT on-none-on

Mouser: 633-M202201-RO
NKK P/N: M2022SS1W01-RO

Note: I plan on using a relay PCB for the bypass functions

Limit Switch
DP3T on-on-on

Mouser: 633-M204401-RO
NKK P/N: M2044SS1W01-RO

Note: This is too big to use for the meter switch (but will need to be made to work, to match text layout on front panel. Drill out the switches mounting hole on the inner panel making it slightly larger(make elliptical towards the right, away from the meter hole). Install the meter as far left as you can with the switch as far right. It looks like it will work with out going into more complications.

I've measured it out, but because I lack the workshop space and still have a large amount of tooling packed away I can't finish this part yet and will get around to it in the near future. I'll post some pictures when it's further along.

 

[kazper]

Rotary switches Mouser 105-13572

Just shorting 2x6 Lorlins....
For Recovery's and ratio

Need 6 for the stereo Tat case as seen here: (same as the one I'm working with)

 

[kazper]

Like always two steps forward and one step back till next parts order.

Kaz

 

[sintech]

Like always two steps forward and one step back till next parts order.

Kaz

WOW!!!! looking really good so far ;-) going to start my build in the next month. Do your meters have VU scales? and where did you get them?

 

[crisotop]

Congrats Kasper, at least someone is pushing forward on the original 2254. How did you mount the boards inside?

cheers
christoph

 

[kazper]

Like always two steps forward and one step back till next parts order.

Kaz

WOW!!!! looking really good so far ;-) going to start my build in the next month. Do your meters have VU scales? and where did you get them?

Meters are unmodified VU's from a pair of scavenged Ward Beck modules. Wounder land audio pointed out that I need to modify them to work in the circuit and even offered me a single or pair of scales, that I've never seem to get in my hands. I'd be happy with a 1:1 scan with measurements so I could make my own..

There is a link to a part number from elfa for a 0-1 ma or 0-1/2 ma meter that is a exact drop in, also noted what WBS module this came from.

If your after meters lab member Nelisk is looking for a pair and said he is having a hard time sourcing them and the elfa option is fairly hard to buy from if your in the states.