EQN build thread

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Hi Brio,


  vv. "Air" on vocals. I guess it depends on the source. I am using Peter's prototype every day, Mostly on lead vocals. SOmetimes(normally on other people's recording) I need some additional shit, but where i am using my own recorded stuff, I am using it FOR the "air"(highest frequency setting) . . . . . , and something else for the "presence" . Mind you, I have a number of things I use to bring up the air over the mix too, . . . so . . . Thank heavens we are all  a bit different, eh?


    AndyP
 
Not sure if this is any help:

as soon as either R3 and/or R4 are connected, the sound gets really thin and quiet in a way that makes me think this can't be right. all this without power connected, just using the passive components up to R5 and R7.
Balanced unbalanced line-in question
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2006, 11:54:16 am » Quote 

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As long as you have it wired like this:

primary + to T
primary - to R
shield/ground to S

inserting a TS jack will automatically pull the primary - to ground, giving you an unbalanced input.  Simple eh?  :cool:
The only problem would be if you had a TRS with nothing wired to the R.  Then youd get the familiar one legged transformer bleed sound (very quiet high freq only).
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=17624.msg204996#msg204996
 
Okay, I put one of the kits together minus the output transformer and R29 (TBD). I've got two questions:

First off can someone post the wiring schemes for the input and output tx? Or at least give me a clue, I always seem to get lost in TX land.

Secondly I got the AML kit and I can't seem to find the stop pins for the switches. Were they not included or am I just blind? I took one of the whole switches apart accidently while looking. Damn are those things well built.

Thanks so much everyone for the help. I kinda jumped in to the deep end with this project but the build went pretty well so far!

 
Marcocet said:
Okay, I put one of the kits together minus the output transformer and R29 (TBD). I've got two questions:

First off can someone post the wiring schemes for the input and output tx? Or at least give me a clue, I always seem to get lost in TX land.

Secondly I got the AML kit and I can't seem to find the stop pins for the switches. Were they not included or am I just blind? I took one of the whole switches apart accidently while looking. Damn are those things well built.

The wiring for the input transformer is on the previous page. Also take 6 (screens) to SCR.
For the output, we'll have to wait for colour confirmation from Ed.

Stop pins for the Grayhills should be in a little plastic bag. They're tiny, so handle with care.
 
peter purpose said:
For the output, we'll have to wait for colour confirmation from Ed.

I just spoke with Ed about this earlier today.  I'll have all the wiring/color info on the 1166 product page later today.

Feel free to link to it or post it here.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Marcocet said:
Secondly I got the AML kit and I can't seem to find the stop pins for the switches.

The Grayhill switches come from Grayhill packed in 2 different styles....
...individually packaged in a round plastic container which contains the switch, stop pins and silver label
...bulk packed.... where we have to pack the pins and silver label seperately....

When they are individually packed it is assumed the pins are inside the package.... when bulk packed we put a pair of pins (and silver label) into a small plastic bag and put that in another bag with the switch..... either way they should be there.....

If you still cannot find them you can always just use the leg of a resistor.... push it in the hole and cut it off

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
 
Lifesavers. Thanks guys. I don't know how I missed the Input tranny wiring on page 4...

I'm so excited to hear this thing.

-marc alan
 
Insert Quote
grayhill-newbie asking dumb questions:

- once the pins are attached, how can i take them out again?  do i have to open the switch?

i remember there was a round chromed sticker looking like a washer that was closing the pin holes, so it's still possible to take it out, but the stickers will be less and less efficient, at least on the ones i had.
 
zayance said:
Insert Quote
grayhill-newbie asking dumb questions:

- once the pins are attached, how can i take them out again?  do i have to open the switch?

i remember there was a round chromed sticker looking like a washer that was closing the pin holes, so it's still possible to take it out, but the stickers will be less and less efficient, at least on the ones i had.

hmm, the sticker isnt already attached but the pin is. and it wont come out. :(
 
hmm, the sticker isnt already attached but the pin is. and it wont come out.

Did you try turning the knob a little when upside down, i did it like that if i remember and it came a little out, just enough to grab it with a tweezer, and if it's really hard stuck, maybe a small magnet or so can help also???? And i suppose this one is not in the right position?
 
zayance said:
Did you try turning the knob a little when upside down, i did it like that if i remember and it came a little out, just enough to grab it with a tweezer, and if it's really hard stuck, maybe a small magnet or so can help also???? And i suppose this one is not in the right position?

ill try it with the magnet, good idea. and yes, you suppose right  8)
 
Brizco said:
zayance said:
Did you try turning the knob a little when upside down, i did it like that if i remember and it came a little out, just enough to grab it with a tweezer, and if it's really hard stuck, maybe a small magnet or so can help also???? And i suppose this one is not in the right position?

ill try it with the magnet, good idea. and yes, you suppose right  8)

Magnet....Thats the only way I've gotten them to come out myself.
 
I had to open the switches up part way, wedge a tiny flathead in there and fiddle around with the pins till enough came out to grab with some needle noses.

It was a whole lot of fun. Got the pins out and the switches work fine though. Next time I wait to put the pins in till I take a good look at the faceplate (yeah, I know)

 
finally the pin came out :)

setup for sw6 (example): front view, one pin attached most northern, then turning the switch ccw and then attaching the second pin most southern. am i doin it the correct way?

And where do i get the L-Bracket for the carnhill from?
 
Okay, output iron is in! Now to decipher the dreaded R29. Plus some insight on what the trim pots are / how to properly adjust them would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

 
Hi,

I can help you out on the trimmer adjustment, the rv4 is the gain trimmer, it is in-between the EQ section and the output amp. RV5 is to adjust the output stage, so that the distortion is symmetrical, you need a scoop to adjust this properly, check the ez1290 build from Madriaanse, in his build pdf is a explanation how to :)

DJN
 
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