OK here we go.
In short I'm building the pultec filter in 2 different ways: the classic (transformer de-/balancing and 2520 opamp for gain make-up) and Franks way (5532 based de-/balancing and gain make up). I want to be able to switch between these two way with relays. (See the previous page)
The classic circuits seems to work correctly. Franks circuit doesn't. The low boost is not enough, the low cut too much. (just like others reported)
I've compared the filter to the different schematics online.
This one seems to be the original schematic:
http://home.earthlink.net/~cayocosta/diy_files/eqp_1a/eqp1a_filter_schematic.jpg
This one is a clearer copy of this:
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/268531d1324562998-pultec-schematic-discrepancies-eqporiginal.jpg
And this one is called ultra enhanced (drawn by lolo-m):
http://nbns-studio.pagesperso-orange.fr/ULTRAPULTEC/ULTRAENHANCEDPULTEC.gif
These are the differences I've found between the last 2:
- The 100K resistor near the output is originally a 10K resistor.
- There should be an extra 1K resistor between the low cut pot and the output.
- There's an extra 10K resistor to ground at the input, probably for some loading purposes. I don't think it's necessary. I've tried with and without. Doesn't seem to make a difference. What's more the input of the filter is always connected to ground from the moment I turn the power on. I seems like there is some sort of connection to ground inside the 5532 opamp. But, it doesn't seem to be a problem. (see further)
If you follow the mods posted earlier by briomusic it will get you close to the original pultec filter.
Only difference I've found is that the connection between 'C' of the LF switch and the low cut pot should be on the other side of the added 1K resistor.
And of course the added 10K resistor to ground at the input.
None of all these changes seem to solve the problems I have with low frequency boost and cut.
The only thing that changed the low filtering behavior is lowering the 10K (or 100K) resistor near the output to, for example, 1K. This gives me more low boost and less cut which is exactly what I want. But it also lowered the output, changed the frequency points and changed the low frequency behavior of the 2520 version which I don't want.
I've also checked the mods described by sangeet here:
http://www.nrgrecording.de/nrg/viewtopic.php?t=91&start=60
I see how changing the low cut pot from 100K to 20k would lower the maximum cut. I'm sure it works but that's not what I want to do, because the 100K works perfectly with the 2520 amp and I want to make it switchable.
I tried changing the 1K resistor (at the LF cut) to 10K as you described to change the low boost. It didn't make a lot of difference and looking at the schematic I personally don't see how it will. Are you sure that's the only thing you changed to get more low boost?
You also changed some resistors to raise the gain to get unity gain. I did this in a similar way but after the filter instead of before.
I've done some more tests (without any of the relays):
Franks debalancing -> filter -> Franks make-up amp and balancing ->wrong LF boost and cut (as mentioned before)
transformer debalancing -> filter -> 2520 based make-up and transformer -> correct LF boost and cut (as mentioned before)
transformer debalancing -> filter -> Franks make-up amp and balancing -> wrong LF boost and cut
Franks debalancing -> filter -> 2520 based make-up and transformer -> correct LF boost and cut
This made me draw the same conclusion as I did before: the filter doesn't like the 5532 make-up amp/balancing stage.
Now, enter Steffens schematic (above). I have seen this before but never really analyzed it.
I don't think there's a schematic of Franks de-/balancing/amp section available but it seems to be exactly the same as in Steffens schematic. (I haven't compared the filter section though)
BUT in Steffens schematic there an big section between the filter and the amp section which is completely left out in Franks version!
What is this section and why is it left out??
Could it be that this is some sort of buffer that changes the way the filter "looks" at the amp section?
In short is this the thing that should solve the problems I'm facing with?