GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[WNStudios]

I have checked every resistor on the board, i've swapped all the IC's and even changed from 2180 to 2181 THAT's. I've made sure the electrolytics are the right value and direction. Diodes are right. Even lent it to my old man so he could check for solderbridges under a good magnifying glas and he found 2 which he fixed. But still nothing!!!

It is working, i can hear it compressing a tad, the compression charecteristics does change when i change ratio, release and attack but it's so minor and absolutley not what it shows on the meter. Any ideas?

and from a previous post "... so now i got makeup gain, works fine on every setting ...", the sidechain and your audio-VCAs are working, so
-> double check the '127K*' resistors real world parts value (located between sidechain-VCA and TL074) and check, there are no broken traces connecting to this resistor or cold solder junctions. For increasing compression (or adjusting ratio) by decreasing this resistor value, you might substitute this '127K*' with a maybe 82K-91K in series with a 50K trimmer/rheostat, initial setting about centered.

I checked it, had a 100k there according to the Rev#7 board i have so just to test i swapped it for a 82k, same problem. Then swapped it to the closest to 127k i had which was a 120k, measured 119,6k, same. There was no audible difference between the two and i couldnt see any major changes on the meter either. Backlit the PCB and went through the joints with an exacto-knife and checked for cold solderjoints but could not spot anything...

Oh and thank you so much Harpo for taking the time to help me, i realise that as a novice i'm in over my head but i really wanna fix this so i can get back to mixing.

 

[gyraf]

Are you sure your meter is reading properly?

 

[WNStudios]

Are you sure your meter is reading properly?

Not sure at all, but even if i blast the compressor with an extremly loud source with the fastest attack, 10:1 ratio and fast or slow release i cant get anything other than moderate compression. It's just touching the very very top.

 

[MeToo2]

Are you sure your meter is reading properly?

Not sure at all, but even if i blast the compressor with an extremly loud source with the fastest attack, 10:1 ratio and fast or slow release i cant get anything other than moderate compression. It's just touching the very very top.

Some voltage readings at the test points quoted in this post below would potentially help narrow down the problem area. When set to to max, this thing really crushes, so it should be completely obvious when it is compressing.

.....

 

[WNStudios]

Are you sure your meter is reading properly?

Not sure at all, but even if i blast the compressor with an extremly loud source with the fastest attack, 10:1 ratio and fast or slow release i cant get anything other than moderate compression. It's just touching the very very top.

Some voltage readings at the test points quoted in this post below would potentially help narrow down the problem area. When set to to max, this thing really crushes, so it should be completely obvious when it is compressing.

.....

I cant find your post with the measurements, would be nice with something to compare mine with. What i can say now though is that i do not get any change on the threshold pot anymore...

 

[Aleguitarpro]

Hi. I'm starting my second gssl and this time I'll use dbx can.
I've a question about the tantalum caps for the 'auto' recovery time: in the silkscreen the 6.8u is in parallel to 750k and 0.47u to 91k resistor.
In the schematic is written the contrary.
In my first build, I didn't notice this but now I'd like to know what is correct.
There are few references here but they are all in contrast.
Thank you very much!
A.

 

[thepraqtice]

Hi everyone,

Few noob questions here. Am ordering parts for first GSSL build with Turbo, CRC and SSC mods.

1. What Lorlin switches do I use for RATIO, ATTACK RELEASE...?
Have tried searching forums but I can't find any model numbers.

Can anyone send me a link to the correct Lorlin 2x6, 4X3 and 1x12 rotary switches from Mouser?

2. Am also thinking of replacing the 0.1uF (100nF) WIMA Poly's in the VCA section of the board with something a bit more funky like Orange Drops or Brown Berry's, anyone ever done anything like this with good results? Would it be worth it?

3. I have these Op Amps in my BOM:

TL074:
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TL074CNvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-TL074CN

TL072
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TL072ACNvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-TL072ACN

NE5534NG
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NE5534NGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-NE5534NG

NE5532ANG
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NE5532ANGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-NE5532ANG

Are these Op Amps fit for the job or is there something better suited for GSSL available from Mouser? Does the signal even pass through them?

Thank you!

 

[MeToo2]

Hi everyone,

Few noob questions here. Am ordering parts for first GSSL build with Turbo, CRC and SSC mods.

1. What Lorlin switches do I use for RATIO, ATTACK RELEASE...?
Have tried searching forums but I can't find any model numbers.

Can anyone send me a link to the correct Lorlin 2x6, 4X3 and 1x12 rotary switches from Mouser?

I think I used the following switches. All are shorting PCB mounting Silver.

CK1059
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1059/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduju919awn9m751i2%252b%2flziIvaH6bz3ZxdoM%3d

CK1060
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1060/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhAA%2fQMCO6WQ%2fPTmUzW%252bqER6LBOqIpr8Vg%3d

CK1062
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1062/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduj1po0K%252bRP%2f%252b6AZ14PCUAjXM1pjpjfNJOc%3d

2. Am also thinking of replacing the 0.1uF (100nF) WIMA Poly's in the VCA section of the board with something a bit more funky like Orange Drops or Brown Berry's, anyone ever done anything like this with good results? Would it be worth it?

Why? The 100nF in the VCA section are just power supply decoupling. Even the input caps in parallel with the 22uF, why bother?

If you are determined to spend more money then it might be wiser to go for the low noise version of the That 2180 VCA chips in the main signal path [although I used original DBX VCA cans here, which are no longer sold anywhere]
http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/THAT/2180AL08-U/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cg40gLeF3u2JNnZ69yMt

3. I have these Op Amps in my BOM:

TL074:
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TL074CNvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-TL074CN

TL072
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TL072ACNvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-TL072ACN

NE5534NG
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NE5534NGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-NE5534NG

NE5532ANG
http://gb.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NE5532ANGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-NE5532ANG

Are these Op Amps fit for the job or is there something better suited for GSSL available from Mouser? Does the signal even pass through them?

Thank you!

Op amps look OK. But I don't think they're that critical anyway. More critical is some people have had bother with the power supply regulators locking up. [I used on an off board power supply using LM317/337 chips. If you are using lots of add on boards you may have to too. Google is your friend. Strongly suggest building a basic working GSSL first before adding extra boards]

BTW there's a whole load of BoM's on the web if you search.

 

[WNStudios]

GOT IT! Not sure though if i wanna say what the problem was.......Idiots like me shouldnt be allowed to build stuff sometimes...

 

[gyraf]

WNStudios: Pretty please...? It's one of the most important aims of this whole help thread: Allowing others to avoid the mistakes that have been tried before - remember that none of us are flawless...

Jakob E.

 

[WNStudios]

WNStudios: Pretty please...? It's one of the most important aims of this whole help thread: Allowing others to avoid the mistakes that have been tried before - remember that none of us are flawless...

Jakob E.

I had wired it backwards Input to outputs and outputs to inputs  :-[

To my defence the meter was behaving like the compressor was in working order and the sound ran throught it, so i took for granted that i hadnt made such a silly mistake. I see it as a good thing though, as i've done a very thorough overhaul of the first guys work so it feels like i've built it myself. And i have a much greater understanding of the circuit and i've learned much about troubleshooting (especially that there is no shortcuts). It was a painful but great experience and i thank you all for all the help! Now on to the next project

 

[spudstyle]

Hi everybody !

I will try this project soon so i've some questions

I want to buy the PCB kit @ pcbgrinder. This website is good ?

For the meter, do you no this one: http://hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=61 is it ok for this project ? (correct quality)

Do you know a good power transformer with 240v primary ?

And my last question is for the switchs: I want something square & illuminated like real ssl but not too expensive. Do you have a good reference ?

Thanks for all.

 

[chrispbass]

Hi everybody !

I will try this project soon so i've some questions

I want to buy the PCB kit @ pcbgrinder. This website is good ?

For the meter, do you no this one: http://hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=61 is it ok for this project ? (correct quality)

Do you know a good power transformer with 240v primary ?

And my last question is for the switchs: I want something square & illuminated like real ssl but not too expensive. Do you have a good reference ?

Thanks for all.

Yes pcbgrinder is definately the place to go.

The hairball meter is probably the most popular with builders and is good quality, it's not a Sifam, but the ballistics are plenty good enough and its a hell of a lot cheaper!

Regarding transformer, depends where you are in the world, but there is nothing special about it so most of the usual suspects will stock something adequate. Just make sure it has a centre tapped secondry and is of an adequate VA.

Not sure about switches, I'm sure someone else will chime in!

Chris

 

[spudstyle]

Ok, thank you for precision Chrispbass

Wait about switches, I want something looks like the original but with a different color light.

I want my DIY looks like this one: http://gssl.rolandklinkenberg.com/ but with different colors for switches & knobs.

 

[MeToo2]

Ok, thank you for precision Chrispbass

Wait about switches, I want something looks like the original but with a different color screens, bulbs, or LEDs.

I want my DIY looks like this one: http://gssl.rolandklinkenberg.com/ but with different colors for switches & knobs.

I used these switches, which look similar and can be ordered with different coloured lenses.

http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae69/MeToo2_Prodigy/GSSL-build/DSC00658.jpg

http://www.apem.com/files/apem/brochures/switch-pushbutton-A01-A1-A02-A03-ENG.pdf

http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0105x/switch-pushbutton/dp/1082350?Ntt=1082350
http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0152b/contact-block-dpco/dp/1082354?crosssellid=1082354&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&
http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0162e/lens-square-green/dp/1082363?Ntt=1082363
http://uk.farnell.com/lux/n6590286/lamp-s5-7s-6mm-28v-1-12w/dp/1139262

They weren't cheap but they look OK. Switches might turn out to be one of the most expensive parts of your build.
Shop around for a good price. Beware that lamps take a lot of juice and might require a separate power supply.
If you can find a triple or quad pole switch block (A0155BUL or A0153BUL) it might be handier. Then you can use one pole to switch the indicator and 2 others for signal.
Otherwise you can do what I did, which was use one pole to switch the indicator, and then the other pole to switch a relay (for the signal)

 

[spudstyle]

Thanks !

Your switches looks good and not too expensive

Your knobs are from farnell too ? I want too minimize buys and shipping.
I will see for a good power transformer with a 240v primary at farnell too.

 

[spudstyle]

This transformer is ok ? -> http://fr.farnell.com/multicomp/mcfm50-15/transformateur-mini-5va-2x-15v/dp/9531530

 

[spase]

you gonna need transformer 10VA or more.

 

[chrispbass]

This transformer is ok ? -> http://fr.farnell.com/multicomp/mcfm50-15/transformateur-mini-5va-2x-15v/dp/9531530

This one is probably better suited...

http://fr.farnell.com/multicomp/mcta015-15/transformateur-15va-2x-15v/dp/9530266

my parts list for GSSL specs 10VA or more, so you have a bit more headroom with this if you itend to use additional add ons or power switch lamps etc.

This should fit fine in a 1U rack case.

Chris

 

[spudstyle]

Ok thanks guys. I don't want to use additional mods for the moment, maybe later I don't know.
But I'm sure to add Power switch and bypass switch with lamps.
I've seen this transformer but I was not sure if it fit in a 1U case but if you say it's ok, I will buy this one.

I Ordered my kit at pcbgrinder this night (in France) waiting for it