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Many thanks MeToo2! Switches are in my BOM. Thanks for the cap and op amp advice also.

Another wee novice question...

I'd like to use an IEC terminal with a built in on/off switch and fuse holder, so the power switch is round the back rather than front panel...

Would either of these be adequate?

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/KM00110511/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv8PvWV2SVHv0Hn1HXYyvkzn7UpHIZj%2f7Y%3d

http://uk.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=h0lr9otJFD6E9DErqT6cPA%3d%3d

 
MeToo2 said:
spudstyle said:
Ok, thank you for precision Chrispbass :)

Wait about switches, I want something looks like the original but with a different color screens, bulbs, or LEDs.

I want my DIY looks like this one: http://gssl.rolandklinkenberg.com/ but with different colors for switches & knobs.
I used these switches, which look similar and can be ordered with different coloured lenses.

http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae69/MeToo2_Prodigy/GSSL-build/DSC00658.jpg

http://www.apem.com/files/apem/brochures/switch-pushbutton-A01-A1-A02-A03-ENG.pdf

http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0105x/switch-pushbutton/dp/1082350?Ntt=1082350
http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0152b/contact-block-dpco/dp/1082354?crosssellid=1082354&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&
http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0162e/lens-square-green/dp/1082363?Ntt=1082363
http://uk.farnell.com/lux/n6590286/lamp-s5-7s-6mm-28v-1-12w/dp/1139262

They weren't cheap but they look OK. Switches might turn out to be one of the most expensive parts of your build.
Shop around for a good price. Beware that lamps take a lot of juice and might require a separate power supply.
If you can find a triple or quad pole switch block (A0155BUL or A0153BUL) it might be handier. Then you can use one pole to switch the indicator and 2 others for signal.
Otherwise you can do what I did, which was use one pole to switch the indicator, and then the other pole to switch a relay (for the signal)

One stupid question but for the power switch, a 2 poles is ok ? The 2 poles cost 7€ but the 3 poles cost 15€ ! And for the bypass switch, a 3 poles is ok ?


EDIT: I've a question about the SIFAM Meter:

I've seen this one on RS: http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/amperemetres-analogiques/1968597/

The background panel is modifiable ? And the needle can be painted ? Is it ok for a 1U case ?

 
spudstyle said:
MeToo2 said:
spudstyle said:
Ok, thank you for precision Chrispbass :)

Wait about switches, I want something looks like the original but with a different color screens, bulbs, or LEDs.

I want my DIY looks like this one: http://gssl.rolandklinkenberg.com/ but with different colors for switches & knobs.
I used these switches, which look similar and can be ordered with different coloured lenses.

http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/ae69/MeToo2_Prodigy/GSSL-build/DSC00658.jpg

http://www.apem.com/files/apem/brochures/switch-pushbutton-A01-A1-A02-A03-ENG.pdf

http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0105x/switch-pushbutton/dp/1082350?Ntt=1082350
http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0152b/contact-block-dpco/dp/1082354?crosssellid=1082354&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&
http://uk.farnell.com/apem/a0162e/lens-square-green/dp/1082363?Ntt=1082363
http://uk.farnell.com/lux/n6590286/lamp-s5-7s-6mm-28v-1-12w/dp/1139262

They weren't cheap but they look OK. Switches might turn out to be one of the most expensive parts of your build.
Shop around for a good price. Beware that lamps take a lot of juice and might require a separate power supply.
If you can find a triple or quad pole switch block (A0155BUL or A0153BUL) it might be handier. Then you can use one pole to switch the indicator and 2 others for signal.
Otherwise you can do what I did, which was use one pole to switch the indicator, and then the other pole to switch a relay (for the signal)

One stupid question but for the power switch, a 2 poles is ok ? The 2 poles cost 7€ but the 3 poles cost 15€ ! And for the bypass switch, a 3 poles is ok ?
Stupid answer: It depends how you want to wire them up. This is DIY. The Indicator lamps on these switches are not automatically switched by the actuator.....

For the power switch you only need two poles: One pole to switch the mains live. One pole to switch the mains neutral. And the indicator lamp is not switched at all (it just gets powered up as soon as the PSU is on, and goes off when the PSU caps discharge)

The bypass switch (shown on the schematic) turns off the feed to the side chain filter and the makeup gain. I used a two pole switch for this (one pole switched the indicator, and the other pole triggered a 2 pole relay on an additional SSC filter board). If you don't have the additional relay you need all 3 poles (one pole for make up gain, one pole for side chain filter input, and one pole to switch the indicator lamp).
 
hi everybody,
i have a strange issue with an GSSL (turbo, crush n blend, steffen sc).
the GSSL have a maladjustment of 10db between the L and R when i pass a drums loop or mix, but all is good when i test the compressor with signal generator with different freq. I test with 60, 200, 750hz, 1000khz and more.

I need your help and advices for resoleved this issue
thx
Cyril
 
Hi guys, I have put together a gssl, with the left channe ls functioning as expected. everything working correctly, but the right bugger seems to be acting up.  The gain and compression functions dont seem to be behaving as expected. Here is an oscilloscope of the channel not functioning, also the input signal (yellow) also seems to be distorted... where in the left channel it is not
 

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creal: could it be a balanced/unbalanced interfacing problem?

jwrightzz: too high gain on the funky channel - check VCA, associated components (resistor values), and driver circuit (5534)

Jakob E.
 
jakob, it's not a balanced/unbalanced interfacing problem. i check with another stereo comp and all is ok.
i re-check the wiring again and all looks good.

Maybe i need to remove all addon and re install each one by one.... :-[
 
Someone know where I can find a sifam meter in France (or Europe) ? Farnell have the presentator industrial but not the Fast response, is it ok ? But they don't have the lighting option :/

Have found all except the meter. I've seen the hairballaudio but out of stock and the shipping price for France is a little bit crazy, more expensive than the meter !
 
spudstyle said:
They don't have the 19 :(
I bought the (unlit) VU meter AL19W at Canford.

http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/58-381_SIFAM-AUDIO-LEVEL-METER-AL19WF

I then bought the bezel for front panel mounting from Farnell.

http://nl.farnell.com/sifam/19w-bezelb/bezel-front-19w/dp/1262079

I used the VU driver from Expat Audio
http://expataudio.myshopify.com/products/gssl-vu-meter-driver

But I wouldn't get too hung up on a meter if I was you.....
 
Hi again everybody,

I have still issues with my GSSL, this unit doesn't convince me at all:

1) sound comes somekind distorted when comp kicks off. it's a high frequency distortion, very unpleasant, it comes also at low gain reduction levels, like -2/-4dB reduction....
If I feed in a sine wave (1khz or whatever) I hear harmonics adding to the signal as soon as I get threshold placed to let the comp just kick in.

My unit is making this joke also in bypass mode. Very annoying.

I read here about a distortion mod: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=34219.0  but I have SSC, how can I implement this in my version?


2)the other issue is about the make up gain. I putted in a LIN pot, but listening to the volume changing, seems it would have been more appropriate a LOG one.....anyone knows?


3)Also I have one channel that have a little less volume than the other.


thanks in advance
 
Hello Everybody,

I just built a GSSL with the turbo board and 2 super sidechain and the CRC board.

I have still one big doubt about how to wire properly my power supply.
The rest is pretty clear to me.

I plugged my GSSL and hopefully I did not connect the CRC output to the main GSSL board.
I could read 30V & 30V. something was definitely wrong.  :-[

I live in Canada with 110V AC.

I really need your help to connect properly my transformer to the main power switch and the AC socket.

I have a NUVOTEM 91226-P2S2transformer (wire color scheme attached)  http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/2574935/
transfo.png


I have a regular AC socket with a fuseholder and L /N /Ground poles.

And my main power switch is a NKK UB illuminated SPDT http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/UB16KKW016B/UB16KKW016B-ND/2106708

Can you please tell me how to connect everything so that I don't smoke my GSSL and my house at the same time ?  ;)

thanks a lot in advance

Damien
 

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hello, il m'en faut un egalement si tu veux on partage les frais de port?

spudstyle said:
Someone know where I can find a sifam meter in France (or Europe) ? Farnell have the presentator industrial but not the Fast response, is it ok ? But they don't have the lighting option :/

Have found all except the meter. I've seen the hairballaudio but out of stock and the shipping price for France is a little bit crazy, more expensive than the meter !
 
creal said:
hello, il m'en faut un egalement si tu veux on partage les frais de port?

spudstyle said:
Someone know where I can find a sifam meter in France (or Europe) ? Farnell have the presentator industrial but not the Fast response, is it ok ? But they don't have the lighting option :/

Have found all except the meter. I've seen the hairballaudio but out of stock and the shipping price for France is a little bit crazy, more expensive than the meter !

Pour le moment ils n'en ont plus en stock.
En fait chez eux tu peux avoir des frais pas très cher mais ils ne garantissent pas la réception de la marchandise. Du coup ça craint un peu je trouve.
Mais sinon ton idée n'est pas con, je peux voir si d'autres gens sont motivés.
 
I really don't know what's wrong with my hookup i still have -30V & +30V at the output of the CRC board.

This is the hookup I did :

AC to primary (115V):

L  >>> brown+grey
N >>> blue+purple
Gr >>> case

Secondary:

red / black&yellow / orange
    -29.8V          +29.7V



thanks for your help.


transfo.png


damien said:
Hello Everybody,

I just built a GSSL with the turbo board and 2 super sidechain and the CRC board.

I have still one big doubt about how to wire properly my power supply.
The rest is pretty clear to me.

I plugged my GSSL and hopefully I did not connect the CRC output to the main GSSL board.
I could read 30V & 30V. something was definitely wrong.  :-[

I live in Canada with 110V AC.

I really need your help to connect properly my transformer to the main power switch and the AC socket.

I have a NUVOTEM 91226-P2S2transformer (wire color scheme attached)  http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/2574935/

I have a regular AC socket with a fuseholder and L /N /Ground poles.
And my main power switch is a NKK UB illuminated SPDT http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/UB16KKW016B/UB16KKW016B-ND/2106708

Can you please tell me how to connect everything so that I don't smoke my GSSL and my house at the same time ?  ;)

thanks a lot in advance
Damien
 
damien said:
I really don't know what's wrong with my hookup i still have -30V & +30V at the output of the CRC board.

This is the hookup I did :

AC to primary (115V):

L  >>> brown+grey
N >>> blue+purple
Gr >>> case

Secondary:

red / black&yellow / orange
    -29.8V          +29.7V
Potentially nothing, if there's very little or no load when you're measuring the output of the CRC board with a multimeter.

18V AC rms under load * sqrt(2) = 25V45 peak *16% load regulation = 29.52V.
If you've got slightly more than 115V on your mains you could easily read ±30V under no load.

Suggest putting a dummy resistive load (of sufficient wattage) on the output of the CRC board and see if the voltage drops closer to 28V before the regulators.
A 7815 will easily regulate that high an input voltage and remain stable, although it may run (too) warm depending on how much current is being drawn.
 
thanks Metoo2,

I removed all the IC and connected the main GSSL board.
on 15V & -15V I have 15.05 and -14.9V
and on 12V -12V i have 12.05V & -11.95V

it seems to be ok

 
hi again good people.
So I used up the LED output on the board to power an LED in my meter, meaning I'm taking power for my Power indicator LED from the unregulated supply after the rectifier.  My question is, how do I calculate the current limiting led that's required to put before the LED?  I don't know the rating of the led in my switch I'm afraid, but when I put a 9 volt battery across it it glows, not particularly brightly.
thanks in advance for your advice!
 

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