GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[micah421]

Hey Everyone,

So I finally finished my GSSL build. I powered it on (strangely it took several attempts with rocker switch)

It passes audio through. The Make-UP gain works, the LED works and bypass works.

The Meter is not working, the threshold, ratio, attack and release do not function either.

Ive check the PCB boards for anything that I may have mixed up(+,-). Everything looks solid.

Any suggestions where I might start troubleshooting? If you do, thank you so much, please be very specific, I just bought my first MultiMeter so I'm still learning how to use it,

Thanks so much in advance

 

[Gustav]

Hey Everyone,

So I finally finished my GSSL build. I powered it on (strangely it took several attempts with rocker switch)

It passes audio through. The Make-UP gain works, the LED works and bypass works.

The Meter is not working, the threshold, ratio, attack and release do not function either.

Ive check the PCB boards for anything that I may have mixed up(+,-). Everything looks solid.

Any suggestions where I might start troubleshooting? If you do, thank you so much, please be very specific, I just bought my first MultiMeter so I'm still learning how to use it,

Thanks so much in advance

First of all - search for "latching regulator" in this thread. I seem to have gotten an especially bad bunch of them at some point, but this is a common error...

Bypass wired correctly?

Gustav

 

[gyraf]

..and sidechain insert point wired?

 

[micah421]

Thank you so much for your time and replies:

Bypass is wired correctly and it works.

The Sidechain Insert is NOT wired(I had it all wired up at first, it gave me the same symptoms so I took it out to narrow down the issue)

 

[micah421]

Ive researched "latching regulator" and the fact that you had a bad bunch would point to that.

So, I'm assuming I need to order all new rectifiers or just one?>(round bridge, 7915, 7815, 7812, 78L12, 79L12)? Or just one of those? Please let me know specifically if there is a way to test to see which one might be having the issue.  So that would explain to see if that fixes the on/off power problem?

Would that also effect the Threshold, Attack, Release, Ratio?

Its strange that it passes audio, the led lights up and the bypass works(I realize it works because the "gain" only works when I click it off) and that the gain works?? Its hard to tell in the diagram where/how the signal gets passed through the smaller PCB board(ratio/attk/release) but it seems like audio must be passing through it in order for it to be effected by "gain" and then going to the output XLRs.

Frustrating. I've triple check everything. My ONLY concern is that maybe some solder points are touching but when I look closely at diagram it seems like its the correct signal path so it should not matter. Could I have soldered the switches in the wrong holes?

Thanks for any and all your help, I'm willing to do whatever it takes to get this up and working properly

 

[Gustav]

Ive researched "latching regulator" and the fact that you had a bad bunch would point to that.

So, I'm assuming I need to order all new rectifiers or just one?>(round bridge, 7915, 7815, 7812, 78L12, 79L12)? Or just one of those? Please let me know specifically if there is a way to test to see which one might be having the issue.  So that would explain to see if that fixes the on/off power problem?

Would that also effect the Threshold, Attack, Release, Ratio?

Its strange that it passes audio, the led lights up and the bypass works(I realize it works because the "gain" only works when I click it off) and that the gain works?? Its hard to tell in the diagram where/how the signal gets passed through the smaller PCB board(ratio/attk/release) but it seems like audio must be passing through it in order for it to be effected by "gain" and then going to the output XLRs.

Frustrating. I've triple check everything. My ONLY concern is that maybe some solder points are touching but when I look closely at diagram it seems like its the correct signal path so it should not matter. Could I have soldered the switches in the wrong holes?

Thanks for any and all your help, I'm willing to do whatever it takes to get this up and working properly

Micah, Ill try to respond here. I think its a better solution than having a parallel conversation by mail.

A little background

The bridge rectifier is a stand-in for 4 diodes, which, roughly speaking, turns your AC (alternating current) into DC (direct current). You can Google "DC rectification" to see how that works.

The regulators in this circuit receive DC after rectification and regulates it to our desired voltage. In this case, 15V+ (7815), 15V- (7915)...12V+ (78L12 and 7812)) and 12v- (79L12) (see a pattern?)

If you measure the voltage respective to ground on the output pins on the regulators when you have the latching problem, you will probably be able to confirm that the 7815 is not putting out the desired voltage (15V +). This is most likely the one you need to change, and the "package" it comes in is called TO220. If you have any doubts about this or how to measure it, please let me know. Again, google will come in handy when you need to figure out which pin is the output pin (ex 7815 pinout in image search will help you)

Cheat sheet answer

"7815 TO220" will find you the part you need from Mouser.

The latching will kill the whole circuit, as you have seen, but when you successfully power it up, it is not responsible for the problems you are having with the controls.

I know you claimed 100% sureness about the bypass switch, but for starters, and my skeptical mind, it would be beneficial if you could check and report back if the make-up gain responds in only one setting or in both settings. I am not as sure as you are about the correct wiring, as I know you used an alternative switch and was not completely sure about how it worked.

It would also be helpful to know what steps you have taken to add and then remove the SC board. Are you absolutely sure you have brought the circuit back to its original state? (I always like to see pictures, by the way).

Methodical progress leads to working units, even if the requests may come off as tedious and suspicious

Gustav

 

[micah421]

Thanks for taking the time to reply! I think its wise to keep our conversation here on the GroupDIY as well, it might be helpful to others.

So the make-up gain ONLY works when the Bypass is not engaged(only "one" setting...this is correct right?)

I went back and did everything in the "basic" build INCLUDING using your bypass switch you shipped me.

Yes I unsolder-ed the Super Sidechain completely(from the VCA area of the main board and the PotA, PotB, On, Off, Com area from smaller PCB board, which is now connected to bypass switch)  and wired up everything according to your build pdf. It has the exact same results as it did when the super sidechain was connected.

I promise I do not mind at all being "tedious and suspicious", I'll do anything to get this up and running.

THANKS SO MUCH!

I wish I could send you pics right now but I'm not near the unit, I will ASAP(hopefully soon)

 

[osso1001]

Hey Gustav,

after two days of work, and not thinking of my frustrating GSSL attempt,
I'm wondering about the values I posted before, are kind of no sense, right?!, or am I complete lost here ?!! (How can I have tension without connecting it??? probably is discharge from the capacitors, or so!?!)  ??? ???
Well, that proved my high level of ignorance about electronic, but that is something I'm willing to change! Please help me with that.

I measured the toroid and I have 17,8v and 17,6v...
should I check after the rectifier now?
I had before one regulator that was "latching"... the led one(12v)! I did change it and the led is "alive"!

Please Help me here, It will be really appreciated!

Thanx again,
Mario

 

[Gustav]

Hey Gustav,

after two days of work, and not thinking of my frustrating GSSL attempt,
I'm wondering about the values I posted before, are kind of no sense, right?!, or am I complete lost here ?!! (How can I have tension without connecting it??? probably is discharge from the capacitors, or so!?!)  ??? ???
Well, that proved my high level of ignorance about electronic, but that is something I'm willing to change! Please help me with that.

I measured the toroid and I have 17,8v and 17,6v...
should I check after the rectifier now?
I had before one regulator that was "latching"... the led one(12v)! I did change it and the led is "alive"!

Please Help me here, It will be really appreciated!

Thanx again,
Mario

sorry,  I missed the last post, because the "page turned".

AC voltages from the toroid sound fine, assuming you are measuring the sides with reference to the center tap. I asked you to do this to confirm it was wired correctly in series.

So yes, lets see how the DC voltage readings come out on both the input and output pins of your regulators. The 10R you fried is a filter cap, and to be honest, I am not smart enough to see any obvious reasons why it would fry, unless you have a short or a capacitor the wrong way around. First, though - check the voltages...

Gustav

 

[osso1001]

Nice to hear  from you, 
So I Have 22v and -21,7v on the rectifier.
Cant find any shorts (looking to my soldering and checking for continuity, nothing found), and the caps look ok , strange, right?!
will spend more time looking for shorts

 

[osso1001]

well, did not check on imput/output of the regulator, because I was afraid of burn another 10R

 

[micah421]

Hey Gustav,

I just emailed you several pictures of my PCB boards top/bottom, I figured that would be the easiest way to send as many/detailed pictures as I could.

My hopes are that you can spot something that I either did wrong or missed that would get my unit to work.

Thanks again so much for your time and patience and explanations, you've been extremely helpful and kind.

Micah

 

[Harpo]

well, did not check on imput/output of the regulator, because I was afraid of burn another 10R

Narrow it down.
Before powering on again, make sure there is no short between the 7915 pins (a magnifying glass might help) and the 7915 is a 7915 for real, so you didn't mistakenly fitted a 78xx (different sign voltage regulator and different pinout) here.
Next short this 10R out for now and cut the two -15V rail jumpers (next to the two 47K resistors and between the two DBX202C outlines) to exclude a short further downstream.
Power on and check this supposed to be -15V rail voltage.
If your reading is significantly higher, place a temporary 1K...2K resistor between the -15V rail and 0V to meet the regulators min.current load.
The 7915 shouldn't get hot.
All fine, power down, mend the 1st.cutted -15V jumper with a blob of solder, power on and check -15V rail again.
All fine, power down, mend the 2nd.cutted -15V jumper with a blob of solder, power on and check -15V rail again.
All fine, power down, remove the temporary fitted load resistor, exchange the jumpered 10R with a 10R resistor.
Done.
If the +15V rail or +12V rail should be latching/hanging on startup, fitting 4 (maybe 1N400x) diodes across the dual rail regulator outputs and 0V reference voltage, anode side to the lower voltage rail as shown on FI pg.302 (no need to fit them so close to the regulators, there are less tight spots for a more comfortable soldering) probably will fix this misbehaviour.

 

[Gustav]

Hey Gustav,

I just emailed you several pictures of my PCB boards top/bottom, I figured that would be the easiest way to send as many/detailed pictures as I could.

My hopes are that you can spot something that I either did wrong or missed that would get my unit to work.

Thanks again so much for your time and patience and explanations, you've been extremely helpful and kind.

Micah

Put a jumper in the HPF slot and see what happens.

This is a common error, and Jakob even mentioned it just a few posts back, but my mind was on the bypass (Micah had been mailing me about using an alternative bypass switch, but did no know how it worked) and the side chain board - not the onboard SC.

When people write me about modding and using alternative parts, and I advice against it and tell them to get the basic configuration working before doing anything else, its to avoid this sort of confusion on both parts, should you need help. When I know someone who has no idea how a switch works uses an alternate switch, I can err and get lost in that when trying to help. Its much easier to mod a known-to-be-working circuit than trouble shoot a mess of wires, and its much easier to trouble shoot the basic configuration - and again, mod just means different, not better...

Hope the jumper does the trick, Micah!

Gustav

 

[micah421]

Ok sooooooo

Good news, with the HPF jumper soldered in I have a working compressor...(applause!)

Bad news, when I insert the Super Sidechain it has the same behavior as before, audio passes fine, the make up gain and bypass works but not the threshold, attk, release.

Is there another jumper I need to install to make this work?

Thanks

Micah

 

[Gustav]

Ok sooooooo

Good news, with the HPF jumper soldered in I have a working compressor...(applause!)

Bad news, when I insert the Super Sidechain it has the same behavior as before, audio passes fine, the make up gain and bypass works but not the threshold, attk, release.

Is there another jumper I need to install to make this work?

Thanks

Micah

..and sidechain insert point wired?

?

Gustav

 

[micah421]

Ok sooooooo

Good news, with the HPF jumper soldered in I have a working compressor...(applause!)

Bad news, when I insert the Super Sidechain it has the same behavior as before, audio passes fine, the make up gain and bypass works but not the threshold, attk, release.

Is there another jumper I need to install to make this work?

Thanks

Micah

..and sidechain insert point wired?

?

Gustav

If your "?" means  "and the sidechain point wired?" (When I noticed Jakob asked this I assumed he meant the 6 solder points near left VCA, since earlier in my post I mentioned I had the Sidechain connected, but according to your post you believe he was talking about the HPF jumper, either way they are both soldered)

....... The answer is yes

The only thing I have not done according to your "SSCdocuments.pdf" is trim "Suggested Lineup" (last page)

By the way the "in" led on the SC does light up when I turn on/off the bypass, if that helps

 

[micah421]

Gustav- I've sent you pics of how I have my SSC connected

 

[Gustav]

Gustav- I've sent you pics of how I have my SSC connected

I do understand that you are eager to get your unit working, but again - I would suggest uploading pictures here instead of posting them to me, try to keep trouble shooting on the forum instead of mixing in mails - and being a little more patient/realize we are not on 24 hour call..

You should check Jakob's suggestion again. Judging by your picture, you did not wire the side chain insert point. (I attached your picture)

Gustav

 

[micah421]

Thanks Gustav,

So sorry! I sent you pictures to your email because here on GroupDIY I'm limited to one 1MB picture and its easy for me to send multiple larger pictures so things seem clear.

Can you please describe to me HOW to hook up the the EXT Sidechain if I....

A. Am going to connect a quarter inch female jack

B. Not going to use it all (do I just run a jumper from point A to Point B?)

Man I really appreciate your help, sorry If I have come across impatient, I'm trying to use on one of my clients projects that start tomorrow and I'm so close