GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[gyraf]

[quote author="fenderfred"]I read a topic where you talk about problems you had with 78XX. Mine are marked TS7815-5C4CZ. Do you believe they're in fault?[/quote]

Maybe.

Stay away from the regulators marked "TSxx". I don't know what the brand is, but I've had MANY problems with these - latching up, going bad etc..

Jakob E.

 

[Dor]

[quote author="RogerFoote"]They are called SIP sockets. I think Greg's 1176 BOM has a number for them if you don't want to cut down a DIP socket.[/quote]

Thanks!

 

[Purusha]

Hey Greg,

which (Nichicon) capacitors are kinda important for better sound? Those six 22u and four 100u on the bottom of the SSL schematics?

 

[BR]

Hey Ozzie,

- In bypass, I get appr. +11dBu (2.8V) on the output

Looks like you have about 6dBs of gain on the outputs. Just replace the 15K resistors right after the VCAs for 27K, or a 50k trim pot and adjust for unity gain output. This has been talked a lot in here. Do a search or use the meta and you will find tons more info on this.

As far as your ratios. Find the Ratio measurements thread on the SSL Clone meta and it will take you thru all the proper steps for measuring and also a few adjustments on some resistors.

Hey Purusha

which (Nichicon) capacitors are kinda important for better sound? Those six 22u and four 100u on the bottom of the SSL schematics?

Yeah, basically the 22u and 100u on the Input and Output section of the pcb. I just put some Black Gates on mine but havent tested yet. I also have one with Nichicons, so I'll probably run a comparison.

peace
Gil

 

[Greg]

I like the Nichicon PW. I think they're also called UPW by some.

The ones at the bottom of the schematic are for the PSU, so those aren't the most critical. Also, the ones at the bottom are 100n, not 100u. The most important ones are in the signal path (ie the top two rows of the schematic). I believe it's 6-22u and 4-100u (as you stated).

 

[Purusha]

Thanks.

I bought tons of Jamicon caps for all G-SSLs I am making, but will buy some Nichicon and make a comparison when first two are finished and over the troubleshooting phase :green:

 

[Purusha]

Just powered up my first out of eight G-SSLs and everything blow up :shock:

just joking :green: it fired up from the first take, the voltage looks right :

+15,09
- 14,95

+12,32
- 11,95

I am going to solder the ins and outs to test the sound and meter. Wish me luck :thumb:

 

[fucanay]

I've already powered up 2 GSSLs and they sound great. But I just noticed that I missed a jumper on both of them. It's the one that is right behind the 7815/7915 regulators. When look at the board it looks like this jumper would create a ground loop, but I'm not so arrogant to say that it shouldn't be there. So here I am asking what it's for and should I take them apart and add this jumper? I'm building another one right now and I'll put it in on this one, but I'd still like to know what it's for.

Thanks

Matt

 

[Purusha]

OK. Some adjustments are to be taken care.

The sound is coming through, but it's not calibrated properly yet. There is absolutely no noise or hum even not being mounted in the box which is good.

I am using the 2181LB and have done these changes so far :

- took out the 68R next to VCAs
- replaced the 10K with the jumper next to the VCAs
- replaced the 1M resistor with the 220K

For the meter I am using the 1K - 10dB scale. The meter works but didn't measure the accuracy yet.

I know I have to read the threads about taming the threshold and ratio adjustments but here is what I get out from my unit if you wanna give me some hints:

- threshold is too much sensitive
- I get distortion very easily when compressing the sound
- the release works strange, 0.1s works fine, but auto position is distorting the sound, any ideas why?

If there is any G-SSL owner with 2181LB please let me know what where your calibration adjustments so I don't have to reinvent the invented :thumb:

The voltage regulators are also hot so I can't hold them with my fingers for long, is this normal?

 

[Purusha]

OK, changed so far:

- took out the 68R next to VCAs

- replaced the 10K with the jumper next to the VCAs

- replaced the 1M resistor with the 220K

- replaced the 100K to 120K on the right of the TL074

- replaced the 100R with 51R right of the TL072

- replaced the 47K summing to 120K

- soldered the 47K to the +leg of the threshold pot

RESULTS:

Less sensitive threshold but still getting distortion on 6dB GR
strange attack and release behavior, faster release shows more GR but less distortion than slower release, usually is the way around.

Anyway, threshold 12 o'clock, still reading 10dB GR....

At this moment I don't know what else to try, I just raised my hands hoping to get some mercy from the Lord soon :roll:

 

[drummerman15]

Just finished populating the board and making all the conections - powered it up and checked voltages and everything was getting power in the right place. I put the 2181's in to try and pass some signal and the left vca got real hot real quick - the right side and sidechain are fine. I've checked and double checked for bridges and misplaced components but everything seems fine. I haven't made the modifications to the dist trim section yet. Any ideas what may be causing this or where to look.

 

[Purusha]

I decided to move my calibration and troubleshooting phase of my G-SSLs from the SSL HELP thread because it's getting too big and it's hard to find something precise when needed.

If you have any suggestions please don't hesitate http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=169277#169277

 

[mathflan]

Noone to help me for my trouble

HI,

My SSL worked good some days ago but Now I have a big trouble on It.

In fact I put a 0db signal 1Khz into the SSL so as to See how that THe SSL threat the signal.

with the SSL bypass , I have 0dB, GOOD.

I turn the THRESHOLD at 0, so NO compression, with Make up at 0.


I read

RATIO 2:1

- 24,5 dB

RATIO 4:1

- 31,5

RATIO 10:1

-34

with Make up at MAX,+20.

I read


RATIO 2:1

- 8,2 dB

RATIO 4:1

- 15,2

RATIO 10:1

-17,6


Before, When I turn the threshold to have a defeat of -10db for example, I could Recover the volume with the make up, now I can't...
SO I don't think It's good, do You know What can I check on the board to find the trouble?

thanks

 

[fenderfred]

fenderfred wrote:
I read a topic where you talk about problems you had with 78XX. Mine are marked TS7815-5C4CZ. Do you believe they're in fault?

Gyraf wrote:
Maybe.

Stay away from the regulators marked "TSxx". I don't know what the brand is, but I've had MANY problems with these - latching up, going bad etc..

Finally, i had find how to get +15v out of this (f---in') reg TS7815.
Simply by putting a second (the same TS7815) in //.
I must exhaust my stock !!!
Now my comp works very well...

Thus if you cross this brand of reg "Taiwan SemiConductor - TSC", flee!
or couple them :grin:
[/quote]

 

[rrs]

Hi all
Have finisherd my GSSL a while ago now but have been making component changes along the way.

My most recent was swapping my NE5534's for burr brown OPA604.

To me these are just what i'd been looking for.

One problem though has occurred with this change in that I now get a low level high frequency squeal which sweeps from high to low frequencys.I notice this when I change settings or after playing audio with high compression mostly.

Any ideas on how to get rid of this.

I still have all the original value components and am using the pre trimmend That VCA's 2180.

 

[rrs]

Thanks Rodger will try.Will get back to you in about a week when I get a chance to try it..

I am realy liking it though.Have run a few mixes through and gives a bit more spank (technical term). :thumb:

 

[mathflan]

Ok my SSL works, I think the problem came from my audio card which had some troubles.

Just one question :

When I put THRESHOLD at +20 , MAX and MAKE UP at 0, the SSL when COmp is activate have 1dB more than When SSL is Bypass.
I test it with a 1Khz generator at -10db and -20db

Is it a SSL particularity or not??

 

[laus]

Hello

A question about the control board : I really don't understand how to wire some pins, the A/A2/COM/C1 and C2 pins.
I only have a bypass switch (ON/OFF) with 3 contacts and the schematics shows a bypass with a Lorlin switch.
As I'm new in DIY, I ask you guys some help.

I think to wire a part off the bypass switch to A and the second part to A2 (I've understand that it defeat the makeup gain when the comp is out) , is this wiring correct?

Also, does the compressor work if the COM/C1/C2 pins are not connected?

Thanks a lot

Laus

 

[sounden]

[quote author="laus"]Hello

A question about the control board : I really don't understand how to wire some pins, the A/A2/COM/C1 and C2 pins.
I only have a bypass switch (ON/OFF) with 3 contacts and the schematics shows a bypass with a Lorlin switch.
As I'm new in DIY, I ask you guys some help.

Thanks a lot

Laus[/quote]

I´m having the same issue.

 

[Purusha]

I think I got this one down :grin:

If you want to defeat the makeup gain when compressor is bypassed than you will need the switch with two rows of three pins. (double switch)

OK, now the middle pin on your switch would be C, the upper or lower pin would be C1 and the opposite pin would be C2. Very easy when you get it... :green:

If you want to defeat the makeup gain than on the second row of pins connect the A to the middle pin and A2 to the pin which is next to C2 pin.

I hope this helps :wink: