GSSL SuperSC board

[mac]

Yes I know I can externally dial it in with another graphic, but after trying the extra "40" position you suggested, it sounded like the comp was performing very very close on most tracks to the 60 position.

I was trying to think of a simple way to have another really different setting for material that may benefit from a completely different filter curve such as a "mid boost" (for want of a better term), setting in this position.

Maybe I should look for an additional simple band filter design to insert in this switch position. Could even put a control knob on the rear panel.

Mac

 

[Harpo]

Yes I know I can externally dial it in with another graphic, but after trying the extra "40" position you suggested, it sounded like the comp was performing very very close on most tracks to the 60 position.

I was trying to think of a simple way to have another really different setting for material that may benefit from a completely different filter curve such as a "mid boost" (for want of a better term), setting in this position.

Maybe I should look for an additional simple band filter design to insert in this switch position. Could even put a control knob on the rear panel.

Mac

The suggested? 40Hz was a quick shot to fill up the gap for a useless doubled filter bypass. Next easiest try could be a wide bandpass with 6dB/oct.rolloff slope by additional inverting opamp stage. Rfb maybe 10k with 2 paralleled 2n2 (=4n4) caps for 3K6 LPF with Rin 10K for unity gain or lower value resistor for your wanted boost to your liking. Don't make Rin smaller than 680R to not upset the driving stage. Opamp out connects to a maybe 68nF for 200Hz HPF, other side of cap connects to your switch position.
Lots of ways to shave the cat, look up sallen-key filters for a different approach.

 

[MikeFFG]

Arrggh!  Hi everybody I'm getting frustrated.  Can anyone give me specific Mouser or Digikey part numbers for the relay and the diodes that work with the PCB?  The diodes, I've gotten two different ones, and both types were too big to fit in the PCB.  The leads were thick.  For the relay, I got one that was too small at first, and then one that was too big!!!!  I'm feeling very stupid and very annoyed.  Any help?

 

[dtonthept]

Hello all,

I'm afraid I've got another of those terrible "do you know where to get" questions...

Mouser seems to be super low on stock for 5mm box polyster caps, and digi-key seems to have a minimum quantity of a few thousand - classic!

Am I being a complete moron and missing something really obvious on these sites, or is there another dealer who is good to get the box caps from?

Huge appreciations in advance,

Damian

 

[mac]

Hey Damian,
at the risk of being a hipocrite (because I used wima'a etc in mine) I believe you can use cheaper film caps on the side chain filter, because as you probably already know it doesnt pass audio - so cheaper caps dont affect your sound.

where are you in the world?

Mac

 

[dtonthept]

Hey there Mac, thanks so much for your reply.

I'm in Canada so normally order through Mouser or Digikey - it just seems that the 5mm box caps are very thin on the ground. Your point in bang on though - providing there's enough room on the board I'm guessing they don't HAVE to be box caps do they?

Any other North Americans have a different source?

Thanks,

D

 

[mac]

Hey guys - really enjoying using the SSC over the last few weeks, but I have noticed a slight hum from the panel lights (i think) on my pushbutton illuminated switches.

My SSC is powered from the 15v on the board (as per the guide), and I am using the "in led" with dropper resistors to provide power to my two front panel lamps which are the 14v 80ma bulbs.

I have read a few different "hum" posts throughout threads on the forum but couldnt find one associated with my circumstances.

Anyone experience this with the SSC board and front panel bulbs?

Mac

 

[regularjohn]

if those are actual incandescent bulbs, and not LED's, you'll want to run them with AC power from your power trafo secondary.  You'll need to drop down the voltage to 14V with an appropriate ohm and wattage rated resistor.

 

[MikeFFG]

Hi guys.  I just finished my GSSL with Super SSC board and it seems to be working great!  My ratios are a tad high but I'm gonna deal with that this weekend.  Anyways, what kind of response am I supposed to get with the TM and TL settings in the circuit?  I'm sure there is an explanation somewhere but I didn't see it around.  I mainly put the board in because I wanted the standard HPF but now I'm interested in what these settings are supposed to get me.  Obviously I can just listen and see if I like it...but it'd be nice to know what it's doing.  Thanks!

 

[Voodoosound]

Excuse me for asking but I can't seem to find any info , are there any pcb's for the Super SSC board for sale ?
And where can I order those ?

Thank you,
Paul

 

[MikeClev]

Excuse me for asking but I can't seem to find any info , are there any pcb's for the Super SSC board for sale ?
And where can I order those ?

Gustav is sitting on a ton of those: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=10776.0

Mike C

 

[dtonthept]

Hi there folks,

I'm just troubleshooting my OTT 2 x SSC + Turbo GSSL - I've set them up to both be in all the time, so bypass just switches the entire compression chain in and out. In other words one SSC goes to the turbo board, the other to the sidechain on the main board.

Here's the embarassing bit - the compressor passes audio no problem but none of the controls have any effect - makeup isn't working, threshold does nothing, the meter doesn't move even when presented with a crazy amount of level.

My best guess is that the unit isn't coming out of bypass, despite the LED from the SSC board switching on and off in accordance with the switch on the front panel.

My question - is there any way to do a "hard" bypass which would take the relay chain control out of the picture? Or is there any other obvious way that the bypass from the SSC wouldn't be engaging the rest of the circuit?

From my understanding it doesn't matter which of the 2 SSC boards is taking care of bypass, and only one of them should be wired into the front panel via Com/Off/On/PotA/PotB. However the SSC board which I do have wired into the front is the one feeding the Turbo board - could this be tripping me over?

Any thoughts hugely appreciated,

Thanks so much!

Damian

 

[dtonthept]

Hi folks,

I've just been faultfinding my GSSL with 2 x SSC and a Turbo, looks like it was "stuck" in bypass. Just traced the connections and found the relay I put in the SSC indeed wasn't switching; does this look the wrong part to you?

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=Z110-ND

It's 24VDC but I guess I might have got some of the other stuff wrong....

Does this sound like a correct diagnosis?

Thanks!

D

 

[Harpo]

I've just been faultfinding my GSSL with 2 x SSC and a Turbo, looks like it was "stuck" in bypass. Just traced the connections and found the relay I put in the SSC indeed wasn't switching; does this look the wrong part to you?

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=Z110-ND

It's 24VDC but I guess I might have got some of the other stuff wrong....

Does this sound like a correct diagnosis?

From Omron G5V-2 datasheet, the max.pickup voltage is 75% of rated voltage. Your supply is only 15V or 62.5% of rated voltage, so your relais seems to be on the high side of parts tolerances if there isn't another error involved. Your 15V supply might be enough for another same type of relais or the multicomp type from the bom, if you're lucky. A safer bet is a 12V relais, unfortunately coming with lower coil resistance, so sticking with Omron, make sure its the 12V high-sensivity type G5V-2-H1. Alternative you might look for a same footprint Takamisawa RY12, also availiable for 18V as type RY18.

To make it work and keeping your soldered on 24V Omron relais, you might power it from raw +DC, but this will require some trace cutting on pcb to keep your opamps safe and +15V regulator working, increasing LED current limiting resistors and a separate wire from voltage regulator input to your relais activating switch.

 

[dtonthept]

Harpo,

Wow what an amazing response - thank you so much! I'm still learning a lot about this stuff so it'll be great to compare your notes to the specs for the part and begin to understand what them specs actually mean!

Well here's the funny news; while pondering the relay I checked continuity through more of my PCB... and discovered that a pad had lifted on one of the diodes going into the relay - so essentially my problem was all about the classic dry joint! I fixed this and now the relay is working, compressor is doing everything it's meant to on first glance, and now I'm going to sit down and check all the lineup and fine details.

Harpo would you suggest I get a more appropriate relay in there regardless? I think I'd be much more comfortable swapping the existing one out for the right one rather than trying to power it seperately, cutting traces etc etc etc....

Thanks again, I'm very grateful,

D

 

[Harpo]

.. would you suggest I get a more appropriate relay in there regardless?...

No. If voltage for coil pickup is high enough, and it obviously is, this parts higher coil resistance will draw less power than a lower voltage coil of this type of relais.

 

[dtonthept]

Cool thanks again Harpo!

It's all up and running and working beautifully, thanks so much to everyone who has contributed to this thread as all the info here really helped.

D

 

[Alessio]

Hi everybody,
I’m building two units with turbo (NOT switchable) and 2 SSC boards.
I would like to have the “sidechain filter on/off” wired to an illuminated EAO switch.

I was thinking this:
1- wire both SSC to the 2 decks rotary switch like this: EXT 60 90 130 200 TL TM and the SW POLES (of course to the 2 poles of the rotary). I skip the OFF position. Each connection goes to one throw of the rotary without gap between EXT and 60 where originally there is the OFF position.
2- Then I wire the SW POLE of both sidechains to the pole of the EAO switch and the OFF of both sidechains to one throw and then I should find the ON of the sidechains and wire it to the other throw of the switch so I can switch between ON and OFF… But where is the “ON” of the sidechain??? This sound a little retarded... :-\
3- For the LEDs I wire the IN LED connection of one SSC to the “sidechain filter on/off” switch and the IN LED connection of the other SSC to the “Bypass” switch. It’s correct?

I’ve tried to understand the draw that Harpo made for this but I can’t understand it… Why I need another relay? If I need another relay can I use the one on the other SSC that is not used?

As you can see I don’t know what I’m saying anymore… 
Any help or explanation?


Thank you very much

Alessio

 

[Harpo]

1- wire both SSC to the 2 decks rotary switch like this: EXT 60 90 130 200 TL TM and the SW POLES (of course to the 2 poles of the rotary). I skip the OFF position. Each connection goes to one throw of the rotary without gap between EXT and 60 where originally there is the OFF position.

Yes. Don't forget displacing the end-stop washer to rotary switch pos7.

2- Then I wire the SW POLE of both sidechains to the pole of the EAO switch and the OFF of both sidechains to one throw and then I should find the ON of the sidechains and wire it to the other throw of the switch so I can switch between ON and OFF… But where is the “ON” of the sidechain??? This sound a little retarded... :-\

No. Your EAO switch doesn't come with at least 3 poles to switch both of your audio signals and to switch illumination, thats why in this case you'll need a 2nd and 3rd relais.
Using the 2nd (DPDT) relais for audio signal switching (you need 2 separate poles for stereo) and the 3rd relais (can be SPDT) for illumination.
Wire the 'SW POLEs of both sidechains' to 2 throws of the 2nd relais.
Wire the 'OFF of both sidechains' to the corresponding 2 throws of the 2nd relais.
Wire the 2 poles of the 2nd relais to both 'SW POLE' connections, located about center of each pcb.

3-  For the LEDs I wire the IN LED connection of one SSC to the “sidechain filter on/off” switch and the IN LED connection of the other SSC to the “Bypass” switch. It’s correct?

I’ve tried to understand the draw that Harpo made for this but I can’t understand it… Why I need another relay? If I need another relay can I use the one on the other SSC that is not used?

You can do so. 'Com/Off/On' connecting to 'SW POLE/OFF/rotary pole' for the 1st sidechainboard and 'PotA/PotB' connecting to 'SW POLE/rotary pole', separate wire between 'OFF' and the free relais throw pin for the 2nd sidechainboard. Wire the 3rd relais in parallel to the 2nd, relais pole and throw in between the wire to switch illumination.
The drawing was made for a single sidechainboard, not for two.

Good luck.
-Harpo

 

[Alessio]

Thanks for the fast reply! This sound really complicated to me...

1- Ok this is clear!

2- when you say 'SW POLEs of both sidechains' you mean IN SW connections "TO" and "RET" or the connections located at the center of each pcb? If you mean the ones in the center I have to wire them 3 times: 1 to the pole of the rotary switch - 1 to the throws of the relay and 1 to the poles of the relay. Is that correct?

3- This is totally dark... What 'SW POLE/OFF/rotary pole' means??? I dont have the OFF position in the rotary switch anymore...
'Com/Off/On' and 'PotA/PotB' are not connected to the small control pcb?

I'm sorry, I dont wanna waste your time Harpo, but if you have the chance to make a simple drawing will be easier.  :
Thank you very much!

Alessio