GSSL SuperSC board

[Harpo]

Ilfungo, this is a DIY forum, not paint-by-numbers, so you'll have to do some homework for yourself, especially when your requests are constantly missing neccessary information.
Switching the sidechainfilters with your 2x8 rotary switch, use the 1st.deck for the 1st.filterboard and the 2nd.deck for the other board, as described by barcleycon (to my knowledge the SSC-boards, Gustav is selling).
For GSSL bypass with illuminated switch see my previous post for a possible solution.
For Turbo bypass see my ugly scribble from pg.7 to get the idea. Just substitute the DPDT switch with your 12V whatever type and pinout, might already be a DPDT relais (are part numbers so hard to read?) and activate it as forementioned described with your -for whatever LED voltage- illuminated probably not EAO switch (these come with more than 3 pins, two alone for illumination). You might power the relais coils from your +15V rail, or use a voltage dropping resistor when powered from raw DC pre regulator.
All information needed probably is within this thread, so you will have to read a little.
Good luck.

 

[ilfungo]

Thanks Harpo
sorry I'll try not to disturb more....

 

[Harpo]

Thanks Harpo
sorry I'll try not to disturb more....

Ilfungo, you are not disturbing and we are trying to help, but you make it just so hard to help you.
When I asked you for further information, your reply to the relais question was '2 x Relais 12V'.
Just look inside your car and count the various 12V relais for engine-starter, wiper, lights, ... to realize, there is probably more than 1 type of 12V relais around. They come by thousands, all differing in size, rating, pinout, .... Farnell alone is selling 1212 different 12V types. How would I know, what type is yours. I only could recommend to use a DPDT relais for your purpose.
When asked for further information about your 'EAO' and type and rating of illumination, your reply was 'Switch with LED light with 3 contacts (do not know what I bought in a store in my city)'.
How would I know better, what you have bought. From the EAO datasheet for switches that look like they would match your frontpanel (weblink provided at page 12 of this thread), there is none coming with 3 contacts, so yours might not be a EAO switch or you simply counted wrong. For usual, these switches come with stamped on part number. For the illumination, if its an EAO switch, just pull this base 5.5 module out of the switch and reading the stamped on part number, you will know what voltage and wattage yours is.

 

[colombian]

Dear Harpo,

I sincerely appreciate and thank you for your response!!!  evidently the person at the other forum was correct about you!!  Great explanation and detailed information!!!

God Bless!

Ludwing

 

[ptron]

heya! im building 2 units at the moment and just ordered everything from mouser and beyond (couldnt find few things as usual).. anyways im looking at  barclaycon`s BOM and i have only one question .. or two

http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB#5189168875169013986

first the capacitors value... should i go with 63 v? if i cant find one of them can i use 100v instead?? this is big question im a rookie and probably this is like i dont know.. asking a very stupid question but i got to ask

and two.. the relay.. i dont have a lot of experience with relays.. it says 24 v dpdt 2800 coil.. cant find the one it says there and i really dont have a clue what kind of relay this is anyone any help please!! if anyone can find the part list on mouser and post it here or to my email [email protected]

btw..
i know this has been asked already before but its still unclear to me.. with the supersidechain board attatched, the wires to the original bypass switch should go only from ctrl to supersidechain board and no longer to the original bypass switch?? or should i just solder both together or hows the deal with that? i got that looping in my head and cant figure it out

gustav sells barclaycon`s design right? or im going the wrong way on this?

hehe i now see there are more than just 2 questions here

thanks a lot!!
patricio

 

[ptron]

i say mouser cus is the only one that ive found in mexico i hope someone can help me cheers !!

 

[Harpo]

first the capacitors value... should i go with 63 v? if i cant find one of them can i use 100v instead?? this is big question im a rookie and probably this is like i dont know.. asking a very stupid question but i got to ask

Any correct type/value cap with voltage rating higher than the supply rails (15V DC) will do. Have a 2nd.look at parts pin spacing and size, because higher voltage rated caps most often come with bigger outline dimensions or a different pin spacing.

and two.. the relay.. i dont have a lot of experience with relays.. it says 24 v dpdt 2800 coil.. cant find the one it says there and i really dont have a clue what kind of relay this is anyone any help please!! if anyone can find the part list on mouser and post it here or to my email [email protected]

Mouser part-no. 653-G5V-2-H1-DC24 should fit. There probably will be others as well.

i know this has been asked already before but its still unclear to me.. with the supersidechain board attatched, the wires to the original bypass switch should go only from ctrl to supersidechain board and no longer to the original bypass switch?? or should i just solder both together or hows the deal with that? i got that looping in my head and cant figure it out

Yes. All 5 mounting holes 'Com/Off/On/PotA/PotB' in the lower right corner of the SSC pcb connect to their corresponding spot on GSSL-control pcb. The pics on barclaycons webside should already have answered your question perfectly clear. The relay is switched by linking/breaking the mounting holes 'IN SW' in the upper right side of the SSC pcb.

 

[ptron]

HARPO u are tops thanks so much for your quick reply!!! i see the relay now and am puting directly in my basket

about caps.. all the 5mm caps are polyester film like the ones from the gssl right? 2.5mm x 7 x 6 or sumfin? i checked on the built board and on the pcb layout and found i just needed 2 axial caps but they were the ceramics i think..

ok so the original bypass switch is obsolete and i can just not mount it and use the in sw from the ssc?? or im still connecting it somehow? im really sorry man i looked and read the barclaycons gallery for a whole day and i dont get it !  i know.. im thick

.... thought i might add some other questions while we are at it!!

ok crc board caps.. it says  6x 470uF 35V "capable capacitors" ...

i picked these on mouser  
Mouser #: 647-UHE1V471MPD1TD
Mfr. #: UHE1V471MPD1TD
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 470uF 35V 105c
are they the right size and stuff??

thanks!!


ps... what does the C'n'B board does? i havent seen any info on those at all but im curious!

 

[Harpo]

ok so the original bypass switch is obsolete and i can just not mount it and use the in sw from the ssc?? or im still connecting it somehow? im really sorry man i looked and read the barclaycons gallery for a whole day and i dont get it !  i know.. im thick

The type of switch depends on personal preferences. You want a DPDT switching function for a standard GSSL bypass. Jakobs plan shows how it could be done with a lorlin type rotary switch. If -for whatever reason- you want an illuminated latching pushbutton switch or you are married to a specific type of rocker switch with only a single pole, you probably would use the relais solution from the barclaycon SSC pcb to make up for the missing pole(s). This relais stays in its default position until the relais coil is powered and the relais throw positions are changing over. This activating of the relais coil(s) is controled by a single switch.
If you're happy with the 'On/Bypass' function by turning a knob, use jakobs plan and leave out the relais with its surrounding parts.

ok crc board caps.. it says  6x 470uF 35V "capable capacitors" ...

i picked these on mouser 
Mouser #: 647-UHE1V471MPD1TD
Mfr. #: UHE1V471MPD1TD
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 470uF 35V 105c
are they the right size and stuff??

Should match your plan.
Have a look at the datasheet to filter the buggy data from the store.
(mouser dimensions dia10/16mm, datasheet says either dia10/20mm or dia12.5/15mm, difference probably won't matter in your case)

 

[ptron]

ok so basically what u are saying is if i want a spdt switch and no rotary i can connect all like the ssc instructions tell me and leave out jacob`s switch instructions completely disregard that bypass switch (rotary) and just use the spdt off the ssc board?

thanks again harpo

 

[ptron]

i know its retarded and i probably should get it with everything that has been said about the subject ive been reading everywhere and still cant get it

http://picasaweb.google.com/barclaycon/GSSLSuperSidechainPCB#5193005367618854546

this is also confusing me ... i see the in sw and the led connected in here.. and the led too... but the "pot B" is going to the middle point of that pot there.. i thought that should go to the ctrl board`s "pot b"?

sorry :/ its just i want it to make sense in my head or i will be confused when im actually building it and i am such a noob


thanks!

 

[Harpo]

... but the "pot B" is going to the middle point of that pot there.. i thought that should go to the ctrl board`s "pot b"?

hooking it up this way might save you 10cm of wire. Electrical it is the same. Makeup control voltage between pot wiper and 'E' gets interrupted/connected by the relais.

 

[ptron]

ok so i think im clear with the pot now.. i see the ctrl pcb trace now and see how can be ommitted...
and im guessing from the radio silence the other questions have been already answered so i guess ill read again this thread

thanks for your help harpo !! u are the end of the leg  = leg-end

 

[ptron]

just two more thing ...

1 - if i understand correctly i need just a spdt switch for my bypass and no longer the rotary.. what amp and voltage specs should it have if i want the illuminated pannel switch??
is 1A 125, 250V ok? i see too many options in mouser and im not sure which one i should go for.. looks like recipy for disaster
http://mx.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Pushbutton-Switches/_/N-5g30Zscv7?P=1z0z2xmZ1z0z2njZ1z0z812Z1yzuat0&Ns=Pricing|0&FS=True

my transformer is  +-15vdc 10va 110-220vac switchable does that make a difference on anything??

thanks and sorry for the trouble i just dont want to mess up this bits that are so expensive!

AND (almost forget!)

2 - anyone has mouser part number for pcb standoffs and mounting screws?? im completely lost there
and
3 - does it make a lot of diference that my ic sockets arent gold tined? if so what difference does it make?

cheers!!

 

[Harpo]

1 - if i understand correctly i need just a spdt switch for my bypass and no longer the rotary.. what amp and voltage specs should it have if i want the illuminated pannel switch??
is 1A 125, 250V ok? i see too many options in mouser and im not sure which one i should go for.. looks like recipy for disaster
http://mx.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Pushbutton-Switches/_/N-5g30Zscv7?P=1z0z2xmZ1z0z2njZ1z0z812Z1yzuat0&Ns=Pricing|0&FS=True

It has to switch 15VDC at 15V/2k8=5.4mA + maybe 10mA for switch illumination LED. Nearly every switch will handle this.
Type would be 'KB16xKW01x-5x-xx' for a spdt, latching, [?shape], black housing, silver contact, [?with/without barrier],-, bright LED, [?LED colour] with no resistor,-, [?LED cap colour]. Replace the 'x' positions with parameter of your preference, using the codes from datasheet.

my transformer is  +-15vdc 10va 110-220vac switchable does that make a difference on anything??

Are you sure it is a transformer and not a 15VDC switching supply? You would need two of those and some modifications on pcb. A transformer is AC, not DC. You want a center tapped (30VAC-CT, sometimes listed as 15-0-15VAC) or a dual secondary (2x15VAC) transformer that can be wired to behave like a center tapped one. 10VA might just be enough for your build.

2 - anyone has mouser part number for pcb standoffs and mounting screws?? im completely lost there

switch the mouser site to english language and search for 'mounting hardware' or translate it to espanol.

3 - does it make a lot of diference that my ic sockets arent gold tined? if so what difference does it make?

No. YMMV. Contacts might oxydate. Until you don't permanently exchange your ICs, this won't matter much and your IC-pins aren't gold plated as well.

 

[ptron]

man u rock thanks so much !!!

 

[ptron]

im pretty sure its a transformer but i havent ordered it yet ... as u figured i cant find it in mouser.. an uncle was going to order from spain from RC or something like this.

so u think maybe would be better other bigger transformer? like 15va or something?

 

[ptron]

other questions... i know they keep coming but im really a total noob and am very greatful for your help!

1- the led holders and the lil plastic lead for the chasis mount... i found these and im not sure if its the one i need.. i see most led holders got a resistance value can u guys help pointing me on the right direction as to which one to choose?
http://mx.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CNXCE4112/?qs=HFaP47sjuuqs%252bqkoywiTXA%3d%3d
this ones will do for panel mount and for meter illumination??  

:

2- in english the pcb standoffs are called rivets?
i think i found em!!! metric standoffs!

what sort of thread size and outside diameter should i be looking for? is 3mm(thread) / 5 mm(outside)  ok? and should i use these with the "metric screws"?

3- this switch will work for bypass iluminated switch???
Mouser #: 633-HB16CKW01-5F-FB
Mfr. #: HB16CKW01-5F-FB
Manufacturer: NKK Switches
Desc.: Pushbutton Switches SPDT ON-ON RND GRN LED/GRN-WHT CAP
thanks a lot!

 

[Harpo]

1- the led holders and the lil plastic lead for the chasis mount... i found these and im not sure if its the one i need.. i see most led holders got a resistance value can u guys help pointing me on the right direction as to which one to choose?
http://mx.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CNXCE4112/?qs=HFaP47sjuuqs%252bqkoywiTXA%3d%3d
this ones will do for panel mount and for meter illumination??

Maybe, what's your frontpanel thickness ? (They look a little expensive. I'd attach the wires myself and use the 0.1-0.2$ parts, but preferences vary)

2- in english the pcb standoffs are called rivets?

no, they are called standoffs.

i think i found em!!! metric standoffs!

what sort of thread size and outside diameter should i be looking for? is 3mm(thread) / 5 mm(outside)  ok? and should i use these with the "metric screws"?

yes and yes.

3- this switch will work for bypass iluminated switch???
Mouser #: 633-HB16CKW01-5F-FB
Mfr. #: HB16CKW01-5F-FB
Manufacturer: NKK Switches
Desc.: Pushbutton Switches SPDT ON-ON RND GRN LED/GRN-WHT CAP

yes. Current limiting resistor min.value for your green LED inside the switch will be (15V supply - 2.2V LED forward voltage)/0.02A continuous forward current = 640R for max.brightness before breaking. With this resistance the resistor needs a power rating of (15V supply - 2.2V LED forward voltage) * 0.02A = 0.256W, so use a 0.5W part. I'd try a 1k / 0.25W instead and further adjust brightness to taste if so required.

 

[ptron]

Front panel is 0.125" (from par metal aluminum/steel im thinking of getting)

1 - bout led holders... id get the cheap parts too but im not sure which parts i need!! at the moment i was tryingto simplify on part numbers and mistakes to be made.... i think they are too expensive too and possibly not mounting the LEDs on the front pannel and just need the 2 holders for the meter illumination. was thinking of mounting them with these expensive boys too but if u know a better way id be very interested in knowing how to!!

2 - ok now that u are saying about resistors for the bypass sw; i got my power sw also with illumination. On the outside of the switch it says:

5.5A 250V AC
13A 125V AC
its toggle switch kinda behaviour and supposedly has an led inside but i dont know more about it.
with this information, does this work as my power sw??  does it need any resistors?? if not what kind of switch should i get for power?

as always harpo thanks so much!! u are very helpful and cristal clear
i dont know what i`d do without u hehe

btw if i leave the "in led" and the "power led" out of my compressor just completely not put em in the pcb does that make a diference?

patricio