Headphones for Mixing and Mastering

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Maybe if you used monitors you would have won.🤣 Just joking.....good for you.

AHAHAHAHA
😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
You can be sure that if that was a factor involved in the decision that I would have used monitors, just to have the statue.

But joking aside, the reason for not winning was due to the fact that Latin Grammys are completely dominated by Spanish speaking people and countries, so it's very dificult if not only impossible for a record sang mainly in Portuguese to win a Grammy.

Anyway the Nomination for me it's already a big win, I'm still the only ever Portuguese Mastering Engineer to ever been nominated for a Grammy. I'm happy and proud for it
 
Well said.

A good example of poorly recorded, yet wildly popular, music is Fleetwood Mac's "Rumors" album. It has a terribly muddy, lack luster sound, yet it was very popular and sold like crazy. In contrast, I also have some fairly ordinary, yet well mastered, jazz albums with amazingly clear, realistic, and articulated sound that makes me feel as though I am on stage with the musicians. James

Woah sir, beg to differ. Rumors sounds amazing to my ears. I use this as one of a couple main references for low and high end as well as dynamics.
 
A good example of poorly recorded, yet wildly popular, music is Fleetwood Mac's "Rumors" album. It has a terribly muddy, lack luster sound

I have to disagree also on that.
I love the sound of Rumors album, last week I was even having a conversation with some Musicians about it, they were telling how much they enjoyed and praised the sound of Rumors.

I also agree that a “good song overcomes a bad mix” or overcomes a bad recording or sound, but for me personally your example doesn’t stick at all
 
Many people hold Rumours in high regard for its quality in all aspects of production.

If you’re finding an older release to be muddier than you remember, I had a similar experience. I’ve been comparing CD releases of hit songs from the mid 90s to the streaming versions and, while most are bery similar with modern “remastered” versions only coming in 1 or 2 dB louder (RMS), the peak limiting does take away some of the original impact of the productions. The soundstage narrows and the low- mids get a bit congested. Who knows anymore which masters are actually being streamed for so many songs.

Back to headphones - does anyone find much a significant difference in headphone amps - one priced way $100 and above? The company I work with has done ABX testing and found no significant preference for any particular amp over that price range. Obviously features vary, but a clean and powerful amp can be easily achieved. Love to hear your opinions.

Fwiw, I send my HDI/O analog outs into a Hafler P1000 and love it for my Sennheiser and planars. No volume control after the amp. I also have a CAPI HP500 that sounds great. I do not care for the sound of my Antelope Eclipse headphone output.
 
In case anyone is interested, I've uploaded the measured freq response of some of the headphones discussed here and also some of those popular with the "pros," FWIW.

These measurements were provided by Sonarworks (avail in their SoundID Reference plugin) and they measured something like 20 units of each model to arrive at an average response for that model. The frequency response curve is normalized against their target curve, or what humans perceive as "flat" for headphones. Their target curve is proprietary, but it probably resembles something like the Harman headphone target curve that has been published many times. In any case, the response graphs allow you to imagine how one pair might sound vs. another. I find that many headphones become very similar sounding once the FR is corrected. However, every headphone (and speaker) has a personality that includes its speed of movement at different frequencies and distortion characteristics, not to mention how it seals against and couples with your anatomy.

I have hundreds of these curves available, but you can have them too if you download the demo of the app/plugin. (not a plug, just for information purposes!) I'm happy to provide some additional curves, time permitting.
 

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Back to headphones - does anyone find much a significant difference in headphone amps - one priced way $100 and above?

I'm very sensitive in regard of headphone amps, and for me it makes a big difference the amp you choose.
It could be that my Headphones react more to different amps than other models, I'm not sure, but I truly hear a big difference. By the way I use the Sony MDR-7506 for 16 years know, I buy a new pair every 2 years.

As for Headphone amps, in the old studio I worked we had 3 Headphone amps for monitoring in the control room. One from the Studer D-732 CD player, another from the Tascam DA-30 (DAT player) and the last one from the small SSL X-DESK.
The Tascam DA-30 and the SSL X-DESK didn't sound that good to me, the SSL one was worse, it sounded harsh and gritty. The Studer D-732 headphone amp sounded and still sounds amazing, very clear, open and with a lot of detail.

For some years I wanted to build/DIY the headphone amp circuit of the Studer machine in an external box, I even got the schematics for it but them I bought the Focusrite RED4Pre interface for my personal studio and when I connected the headphones to it I was blown away, the D/A converters and the Headphone amp on the RED4Pre are amazing, everything sounds good in that unit, they really got it right.
I've been so happy with the headphone amp on the Red4Pre that I haven't used or haven't looked for anything else after that.
Unfortunately some months ago the unit failed, and I had to change for another interface with it's own headphone amp and I felt miserable when I plugged the Headphones into it.

So for me headphone amps make a big difference.


People say a lot of good things about this headphone amp, I never tried it, but if I didn't had one that I already liked I would probably buy this. It's an improvement over the "O2 - Objective2" headphone amplifier that seemed to get a lot of praise when released:

https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/
 
Many people hold Rumours in high regard for its quality in all aspects of production.

If you’re finding an older release to be muddier than you remember, I had a similar experience. I’ve been comparing CD releases of hit songs from the mid 90s to the streaming versions and, while most are bery similar with modern “remastered” versions only coming in 1 or 2 dB louder (RMS), the peak limiting does take away some of the original impact of the productions. The soundstage narrows and the low- mids get a bit congested. Who knows anymore which masters are actually being streamed for so many songs.

Back to headphones - does anyone find much a significant difference in headphone amps - one priced way $100 and above? The company I work with has done ABX testing and found no significant preference for any particular amp over that price range. Obviously features vary, but a clean and powerful amp can be easily achieved. Love to hear your opinions.

Fwiw, I send my HDI/O analog outs into a Hafler P1000 and love it for my Sennheiser and planars. No volume control after the amp. I also have a CAPI HP500 that sounds great. I do not care for the sound of my Antelope Eclipse headphone output.
headphone amp design is complicated, really speaker amp design in general, because headphones are electric motors that move air. it doesn't quite do to simply play the signal but louder, it needs to be able to push the driver around. i've seen amps measure the same under the analyzer but one of them completely breaks down under real load because it can't handle the back EMF. This doesn't necessarily correlate with price though, just pointing out that there are complicated factors in headphone amp design
 
Regarding headphone amps -

1) Comment: A LOT of guys like the JDS Atom+ model Mr. Whoops mentions, because it sounds good and has the oomph to drive higher impedance cans. Some models from Topping, FiiO, Schiit, SMSL, and AudioQuest are similarly popular. Massdrop.com (now Drop.com) also a version of the JDS Labs Objective 2 which I believe is the precursor to the current model.

2) Footnote on Rumors album, I believe my copy is first run vinyl as I purchased it form the first batch to reach the shop. Apparently I am losing in the polls as to whether it sounds good or not. :)

3) QUESTION - Do I want/need a headphone amp? Am I missing out on the fun if I have full size stereo components? I love electronic toys, but I don't buys stuff just to have stuff, but is there a reason I have overlooked?

Thanks. James
 
I have hundreds of these curves available, but you can have them too if you download the demo of the app/plugin. (not a plug, just for information purposes!) I'm happy to provide some additional curves, time permitting.
I would agree with the above Sonarworks soundiD is a great tool to have. Also very interesting and useful to hear headphones with an adjusted flat response.
 
Regarding headphone amps -

3) QUESTION - Do I want/need a headphone amp? Am I missing out on the fun if I have full size stereo components? I love electronic toys, but I don't buys stuff just to have stuff, but is there a reason I have overlooked?

Well, if the headphone amp you are using at the moment sounds good to you, maybe you don’t need another one.
I also don’t need an external one at the moment as I was lucky that my soundcard had an amazing amp, or that amp somehow matches well my headphones model.

What you could do is to borrow some from friends and try different ones and compare to what you have and decide if another unit improves anything or if you’re already sorted
 
The problem with most headphone outputs is that they have a limited output capability.
(Often a simple OpAmp that can only drive a low impedance headphone to a moderate level without distortion.)
Another problem is if the output is made 'short circuit proof' by means of a series resistor.
Most headphones are dynamic types; this means that the load of the headphone output is a coil, that doesn't have the same impedance for all frequencies. This can influence the frequency response.
A series resistor also influences the damping factor on the drivers, causing a more 'muddy' LF-response.
This is the reason that I use a dedicated headphone amplifier and the difference is obvious!

The headphone output on a power amplifier is usually a simple resistor voltage divider, because you don't need/want 40 Watts (or more!) on your headphone output.
Also in this case the drive impedance is higher than preferred for a good headphone 'drive'.
 
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Thanks for the prompt replies Mr. Whoops and Mr. RuudNL - and yet, I remain torn on the matter! I do not sense or suspect any weakness or deficiency, as each amp/receiver is a full size, no compromise component from SONY, Onkyo, or Sansui (older gear, before they got cheap), - think big, heavy old school stereo gear. Or, I occasionally plug my headphones directly into a Teac, SONY, or Kenwood CD player with its down headphone output, and they all sound as expected. And yet, perhaps as Mr. RuudNL suggests, I might do even better with a dedicated headphone amp. I suppose the only way to be sure is get one and try it! Thanks, again, for weighing in on the matter. James
 
I think people might be confusing 'Rumours' with the previous Mac album - "Fleetwood Mac" (1975- first Mac with Buckingham and Nicks ['Rhiannaon', etc.]); that was a very muddy/tubby sounding album. I never had a problem with the overall sound of 'Rumours'.
 
No love for the Beyer DT880s?
Sonarworks seem to love them, and with individual calibration, they go toe-to-toe with calibrated HD 600/650's
https://www.sonarworks.com/blog/reviews/beyerdynamic-dt-880-pro-studio-headphone-reviewExcellent deal too, you can buy a pair directly from Sonarworks that come with an individual calibration profile (L/R calibrated separately).
Definitely a great value.


I don't know if it's 10x times more, but for sure music nowadays is heard on headphones/earbuds and small portable bluetooth speakers, I would say that's close to 80%.
I rarely see any "common person" or "common music listener" using an Hi-Fi system, it's Bluetooth speakers all the way.
Agreed, probably more useful than something like Auratones nowadays. Some might not care to admit that, but that's just the way it is.


Woah sir, beg to differ. Rumors sounds amazing to my ears. I use this as one of a couple main references for low and high end as well as dynamics.
I love the sound of Rumors album, last week I was even having a conversation with some Musicians about it, they were telling how much they enjoyed and praised the sound of Rumors.
rumors is a bit ducked but i wouldn't call it muddy personally. it sounds nice and nostalgic that way
It's definitely a very "round" sound. It sounds like it came straight out of a period console with very little actual mixing aside from levels, panning, and some reverb on vocals and maybe a few other elements. Nothing unusual for that period of course. A nice palette cleanser too compared to most stuff nowadays that is typically very pristine/hyped/in your face. But of course...the primary thing that makes Rumours (and most Fleetwood Mac stuff) is that it's simply good songwriting and composition and melodies/harmonies.


I use HD600s with FR compensation
I love my HD600s!
I am also a fan of the Sennheiser HD600/650. I replace the ear pads once a year (they are about $45 and just snap on) to maintain a consistent seal. I also use SoundID freq calibration for my phones and I’ve had great success with mixes and masters that I’ve had to do on phones, especially since COVID forced more remote work. I’ve mixed and/or mastered several very successful commercial albums over the past few years using HD650s instead of my studio monitors. Not one client noticed a change in my consistency or end result. Hopefully that’s a good thing ;-)
Some kind of correction is a must, even using a general profile in SoundID to at least de-exaggerate the negative aspects of a given pair of headphones. The main advantage of calibrated headphones over speakers is that the room is no longer a factor. Add in good cross feed simulation and it can sound pretty darn natural compared to a pair of speakers. There is also the differences between closed and open back headphones. It's said that open (and semi-open) can give a more natural presentation. Closed backs are more sealed and can therefore hype the bass a bit. Great for tracking though of course. The biggest difference though is that you just won't physically feel the music in the same way, since it's not hitting any other part of your body. And I'm not talking about high levels and lots of bass. Simply the difference between music being around you versus going straight into your ears. But I don't know how essential that is to produce a good mix or even master.

Maybe my setup can serve as a good point of reference to help others decide on a good middle ground to approach the whole headphone thing:

SoundSource (systemwide plugin host) > Sonarworks SoundID (correction) > Goodhertz CanOpener Studio (crossfeed) > Topping DX3 Pro+ > HD600

I also constructed my own cable from Mogami/Neutrik/Cardas components that produced a little more openness in the higher frequencies. But that was just icing on the cake. The stock HD600 cable was simply too long and sort of flimsy, so my primary motivation was to address those problems and simply eliminate the cable as any real potential bottleneck in the chain.

This setup is pretty much as neutral and natural as you can get at a very decent price point. The Topping measures very well in all major aspects and priced very well. I've read about some quality control issues with the screens, but I haven't experienced that. It sounds exactly like it should...meaning it doesn't sound like anything at all. I can do mix checks on a friend's Genelec 8040's and it's pretty darn close to the same. The only thing that is sometimes difficult to judge is reverb, but that's a reality between headphones and speakers. I will say, the gain in my particular setup it isn't always enough for mixing (when stems are peaking around -18db) since SoundID and CanOpener both shave off 10db each for internal headroom with all of the correction going on. That's a 20db loss. So I typically need to put simple gain on my master in the DAW until I am in the mastering phase and bring all the levels up. Easy workaround. Keep in mind, this is not necessarily a problem with the amp, but rather that the HD600's are harder to drive (high impedence). I could swap them out for something like a pair of LCD-X's (low impedence) and would get a lot of gain back. Perhaps if you have the money and just want to go right to the "top", the LCD-X (2021) with SoundID and CanOpener and something like the modest DX3 Pro+, you would have a very solid and accurate setup and one you would likely not need to "upgrade" and could probably be fine without speakers to actually mix and master on, at least until you felt like you needed speakers or have the opportunity to work on them more regularly. That's based on my understanding of the LCD-X as accurate across the spectrum with some calibration, even down in the lows that can be a little dodgy with the HD600/650 even with calibration. I've also read over and over that the LCD-X's have a larger or more natural "sound stage" that are truer to speakers than maybe the HD600's might. You can get close with the HD600/650's, but there is some concern in accuracy in the lower frequencies since the drivers naturally do not put out a whole lot of bass to begin with and need to be corrected quite a bit. But, that's also only really a concern if you're working with bass-heavy material. Otherwise, the HD600's are a great value. DT880 Pro as well from all I've read and heard. There was an Audio Technica pair that Sonarworks reviewed as well that do pretty well with correction/calibration. Search around and see which ones take correction the best. Not all do given bizarre stock frequency responses / driver limitations.

I also have Sony MDR-V6's (predecessor to the 7506 if I recall correctly) that I've had for over 10 years (they were also our stock headphones for video production at my old job). They absolutely benefited from the general calibration in SoundID (it got rid of the hype) and they are super respectable that way. I will use them occasionally for mix checks (bass is nice since they are closed backs), but those primarily live with my field recorder :)

Also, the comment on ear pads is seriously underrated. Most of what people (self-proclaimed audiophiles) think of as headphones "burning in" and mellowing out is really just the ear pads breaking down and the perceived frequency response is skewed haha. It's good to keep the ear pads and therefore your headphone performance consistent. Also...for your health. Cleaning them now and again is a good thing, especially if you're using them a lot.

All of that to say, I think any reasonable middle round that uses a proven set of headphones, a well-measuring amp that is enough to power those headphones, and then utilizing some kind of correction (individual calibration if you can afford it) and a reliable crossfeed simulation, you're going to be enough in the ballpark to produce reliable mixes (and probably masters) that translate well. Mix checks on other sources (bluetooth speakers, car, earbuds, etc.) are still important though.

As for choosing an amp, I did buy the DX3 Pro+ based on Audio Science Review, and I am not disappointed. I think their measurements can be trusted to at least put you in the ballpark (and save you some money that might be spent either buying something too expensive, or buying and selling amps). They also love the JDS Atom over there..something like that and a Topping DAC would be a very solid and affordable combo, and the rest of your budget can be spent on a good set of headphones. Just a reference point. You'll ultimately need to research for yourself based on what your needs ultimately are.

I might have more to say on that as the thread progresses, but I feel like I run my mouth enough already on this forum when I do say something haha.
 
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It was the Audio Technica ATH-R70X I was thinking of:
https://www.sonarworks.com/blog/reviews/audio-technica-ath-r70x-studio-headphone-review#pros
Also of interest is their review of the 7506 for fun:
https://www.sonarworks.com/blog/reviews/sony-mdr-7506-studio-headphone-review#correction
By the way, I'm not telling anyone to invest in Sonarworks either way, but SoundID is certainly a useful and very convenient tool, especially if you plan to correct other headphones, or even speakers in the future. Just a few clicks to load a different profile for whichever headphones or speakers you are using. One Audio Science Review thread actually showed that SoundID performed the same as Genelec's proprietary calibration package, so that should help you keep in mind that it's a good all-in-one-app calibration tool to have no matter your eventual choice in speakers too.
 

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