At Peavey we made one old technology tube limiter (AMR VCL/2). It was basically a dual mono limiter with no attempt at matching gain elements. We had some customers add a stereo link capability but I make no claims for stereo imaging.
JR
JR
You must keep in mind that LEDs are sorted by bins. That binning can be by forward voltage, color or light intensity. You may be measuring LEDs from a single bin. That might explain the tight grouping of the forward voltage.I just bought a bunch of LEDs. This evening I tested 20 nominally identical RED LEDs with my Peak ATLAS tester which feeds a precise 5mA though them. The forward voltage drop ranged from 1.88V to 1.92V which is a range of just 0.04 volts. This compares to the 0.2 volt range I saw when testing five Vactrols. I remain suspicious of the Vactrols.
Cheers
Ian
I don't trust faceplate markings (timing, ratio) one iota but would expect a dual-mono and even a stereo-linked unit to be reasonably L/R matched (or at least user-matchable).If you want any kind of repeatability, like maximum GR ot just having the correct markings on the front panel
Thank you. I did not realise that. Presumably there is some indication of this on the LEDs themselves or their data sheet?You must keep in mind that LEDs are sorted by bins. That binning can be by forward voltage, color or light intensity. You may be measuring LEDs from a single bin. That might explain the tight grouping of the forward voltage.
That thought has certainly crossed my mind. About a year ago I corresponded with another member of groupDIY who wanted to make a Vactrol based compressor. In the end he found the off the shelf Vactrols to be very poor so he made his own with much better results - so this is indeed still an option.How about buying only photoresistive cells from AliExpress... and then experiment with (red) LEDs. Shouldn't be worse than what they offer as finished optocells (often unclear over there what they are from description).
They should manufacture them in a nice metal can with a thick glass lens over the CdS cell, so that the CdS accounts for less than 0.01% of the total weightthe LDR part of the vactrol (for technical reasons) always contains cadmium in amounts exceeding what can be rohs-certified for sale in EU (100ppm, 0.01%) - Compliance FAQs: RoHS
Are you referring to the Xvive 5C3-R vactrols? I've seen those around online, I wasn't aware they were bullshitting about the RoHS compliance.Several companies - including xvive - has claimed to have ROHS-compatible solutions, but it always turns out to be outright lies. A company named Macron even presented falsified laboratory records to the EU group in charge of rohs/weee
I am finished with first quart spray bottle of ZEP and working on the second.Zep is pretty awesome. EaCo Chem Britenol HD is a big step above but it's pretty potent. Actually pretty safe, safer than their One Restore which will etch the glaze from tile, but cuidado still.
Oxalic acid (barkeeper's friend has this), White Ox...etc.....is great for rust stains....
No, that won't work off course - would have been done long ago.They should manufacture them in a nice metal can with a thick glass lens over the CdS cell, so that the CdS accounts for less than 0.01% of the total weight
Are you referring to the Xvive 5C3-R vactrols? I've seen those around online, I wasn't aware they were bullshitting about the RoHS compliance.
Hard to say. I was surprised to hear Zep was Glycolic acid. Zep facials?...lolI ASSume that Britenol is a stronger concentration professional version...
Chemicals can replace much of the labor but, at some point, mechanical removal is necessary. Pool tile guys use glass bead blasting to work off deposits along the water line for instance... I've used a DA sander in showers before with some aggressive compounds like stone scrub...... Wonder if pumice sticks/stones would do anything to shower tiles. Seems they would. Would like to test that .... I used to flip rentals for some investors to sell back in the 2000's boom and dealt with some pretty nasty showers...I started out old and tired, so I am getting more tired of scrubbing. My shower walls are indeed getting cleaner but there are decades of hard water build up and I'm only down a couple decades
Have an airline pilot friend who says they use the fine type and vinegar for the airliner glass. Never had too much luck with it where I've tried using it and the rusting of it was aggravating. But it seems like it should work in theory with some things....Any thoughts about steel wool?
yup, mild acid and pretty skin friendlyHard to say. I was surprised to hear Zep was Glycolic acid. Zep facials?...lol
Barkeeper's friend is oxalic acid, so oxidized glycolic acid... I don't have any BKF sitting around, all I have is comet powder, and that doesn't play nice with acid (could release chlorine gas). I need to order some BKFBritenol doesn't really smell anything like Zep whatever that means. It's pretty great. Use it in sections with some abrasive stuff like barkeeper's friend or whatever and it works quite a lot better than zep using the same technique...working/rinsing sections just to be safe. I usually just keep a small bucket of water with a (green scotchbrite is potent) scrubby and keep it wet enough to make powder or whatever easier to work.
I still cant find Britenol for sale. But I haven't asked my professional friends. This is quickly becoming moot.it's pretty industrial stuff. That Eaco Chem Company has some incredible chemicals. Their One Restore and Cleansol BC are others I'm also familiar with.... I think they sell samples...
I have a pressure washer that I typically only use outdoors.. It might do something interesting on my shower, but I need to hurry, the shower is almost clean already.Chemicals can replace much of the labor but, at some point, mechanical removal is necessary. Pool tile guys use glass bead blasting to work off deposits along the water line for instance... I've used a DA sander in showers before with some aggressive compounds like stone scrub...... Wonder if pumice sticks/stones would do anything to shower tiles. Seems they would. Would like to test that .... I used to flip rentals for some investors to sell back in the 2000's boom and dealt with some pretty nasty showers...
I seriously considered reskinning my shower but I am too cheap...Replacing them was common.
My shower walls are already night and day cleaner, after I have already consumed the first 1 quart spray bottle of Zep. Now I am working on the second quart bottle. Since I am single I could just declare my shower clean now (It was clean enough for me the last few decades).Some of those grout cleaning companies do some pretty amazing work with tile restorations too. Groutsmith is one here and other places..Pic is from one of their TX locations.... Maybe there are some near enough to you.
Maybe even spring for a new shower. Can make it a handicap/curbless floor with a seat and even a couple of bars.... Already fancying one for myself....
I have some cheap steel wool soap pads. I haven't tried them yet in the shower...Have an airline pilot friend who says they use the fine type and vinegar for the airliner glass. Never had too much luck with it where I've tried using it and the rusting of it was aggravating. But it seems like it should work in theory with some things....
Veer...lol
Apologies for the continued flogging of this dead horse, but how are the commercial manufacturers getting away with it?No, that won't work off course - would have been done long ago.
The catch is that Cd content is specified in "separaple compounds" i. e. What you can scrape off with a lab-grade knife. And as the cadmium sulphide needs to be at some sort of a surface (to react to light) , it will always exceed the limit. Believe me, people have been working this for a while, but no solution...
It seems there are even hand held devices too. From what I have read, x-ray fluorescence detects elements even when bound in harmless molecules so CdS would show up as Cadmium.Google for X-Ray Fluorescence Analysis (XRF), for example: RoHS X-Ray Fluorescence Analysis (XRF) Screening
From what I understand, you just put the item to be tested in the chamber, press a button, and a report pops out telling you how much of all the controlled substances are in the product. Including cadmium.
Neil
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