Majestic12
Well-known member
bancho said:
The knob labeled "ratio" is just the DC threshold which in the original unit can only be accessed when removing the front panel. Tat decided to put it directly on the frontpanel.
Majestic12 builds Drip Fairchild 670
- Thread starter Majestic12
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
The knob labeled "ratio" is just the DC threshold which in the original unit can only be accessed when removing the front panel. Tat decided to put it directly on the frontpanel.
toolboxmuziq
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 161
what's the word on the build? I'm about to embark on the journey!
Majestic12
Well-known member
Very nice.
Did you encounter any bigger problems concerning the calibration process ?
Did you encounter any bigger problems concerning the calibration process ?
Majestic12 said:
No, actually I didn't. We had some problems with the M/S matrix, where my colleague who was doing wiring misread the channel number of the in-phase output. So we had some fun with -10dB loss on one channel etc.
The voltages were OK right off the bat and the bias I'm reserving judgement for since it seems that the tubes must really get burned-in before you can make an accurate setting.
desol said:
Yeah, sounds nice actually. Nobody's sure if it is actually worth its parts, but for me so far as I'm using it it seems to be a pretty smokin' buss compressor and great for vocals too. The different timeconstants are all mostly usable.
marc11657 said:
marc11657,
That's info will be great!! but if some one have the engineering drawing of the Original Chassis will be fantastic!!....Does someone knows where could I find this Chassis dimensions and spec.??
Opacheco.
opacheco said:
Indeed Opacheco! I am looking for the drawing of the chassis too, in particular a wiring layout (not the schematic). I have read in the manual that the dimensions are:
Standard 19" rack, 14" panel space, depth behind panel 11"
approx 65 lbs.
Unfortunately I forget who made this or where I found this but there's also a nice design layout of the front panel.
I've spoken to a few metal experts (not Iron Maiden fans) who have all come back saying the same sort of thing. They believe the metal used for the casing on the 670 is mild steel with a thickness of either 1.5 or 2.0mm. It has been painted with light admiralty grey paint.
Shattersignal
Well-known member
I'm also curious if anybody has experimented with upgraded caps. Has anybody gone with Mundorf or Auricap on a Drip 670 build so far? I'm gathering the transformers and other expensive parts before I commit any solder to this awesome PCB. Should I consider boutique caps as well?
Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster. Also a 670 nut.
In my personal hunt for 670 documentation I seem to find there is almost as much mis-information as information.
The face plate drawing above is a good example. Some controls arent labeled correctly and dimensions left off, i.e. locations of "zero" and "balance" holes.
For sometime I have wanted to do an accurate remake of one for personal use. I commend the efforts of CJ and others who have bitten off this massive task. I wont start with construction until I have reached critical mass on acquiring the critical items to do an authentic remake. This way if I dont get there, I know I can sell the stash of vintage parts Ive accumulated.
Mark
In my personal hunt for 670 documentation I seem to find there is almost as much mis-information as information.
The face plate drawing above is a good example. Some controls arent labeled correctly and dimensions left off, i.e. locations of "zero" and "balance" holes.
For sometime I have wanted to do an accurate remake of one for personal use. I commend the efforts of CJ and others who have bitten off this massive task. I wont start with construction until I have reached critical mass on acquiring the critical items to do an authentic remake. This way if I dont get there, I know I can sell the stash of vintage parts Ive accumulated.
Mark
Where did you come across that picture? (hoping the poster is still around).
That front panel is fairly accurate. It is mounted as follows. There are three through holes on the lower left side of that panel and two on the lower right side. The bottom two hole on each side bolt to a folded steel piece that forms a hinge. The third through hole on the left side (the upper one) is where the power indicator lamp socket is mounted.
That front panel is fairly accurate. It is mounted as follows. There are three through holes on the lower left side of that panel and two on the lower right side. The bottom two hole on each side bolt to a folded steel piece that forms a hinge. The third through hole on the left side (the upper one) is where the power indicator lamp socket is mounted.
Similar threads
