Skylar said:These little guys are your friends:
Mouser PN: 534-621
I used 2 of them on one of my MK7s along with short 4-40 flat undercut brass screws.
On this build, all the wiring is solid-core silver teflon, and it's STIFF, which really helps keep the board in place. In fact, I can remove the brackets, and the PCB is still held in place solidly under the support of only the wiring.
Now, mounting the G7 takes a little more imagineering.
Using parts that I had lying around...
This one is fun. Looks a little steam-punk, but we like that kind of thing around here, right?
There are plenty of ways this could be done better, but this improvised approach works in a pinch and provides some adjust-ability.
[You will notice that the side rails are all bent outta shape. That's the result of my testing procedures...of course, they still work fine. A trip to the vise will straighten them back up again.]
SKJGProject said:anybody knows a source for the little *******s in germany??? i can't find them and don't want to spend 20€ shipping just for 2 20cent pieces...
SKJGProject said:anybody knows a source for the little *******s in germany??? i can't find them and don't want to spend 20€ shipping just for 2 20cent pieces...
Hi Dan,poctop said:No ones has any information on this CCCP bypass cap, was this cap in the original circuit or just the one that fitted there the most ?
any substition experiment out there ?
DAn,
bezen4uk said:Hi Dan,poctop said:No ones has any information on this CCCP bypass cap, was this cap in the original circuit or just the one that fitted there the most ?
any substition experiment out there ?
DAn,
These are russian "MBGO" paper-in-oil capacitors. Not original, just same type. I'd use modern Wima FKP4 or MKP4 or vintage Siemens PIO caps.
Tolerance is 1%, but it should suffice.
nashkato said:did you use precision components inside your mic ??
Volume11 said:Hey guys, I am working on building the power supply and I am having trouble locating some of the parts on mousers site. Can someone please tell me what fuse type and value would be most appropriate. A mouser part number would really help me out . This is for a US model. Also, what lamp have people used and liked so far? I have noticed a lot of Fender amp style lamps being used, which I think looks really cool.
Thanks
wave said:Volume11 said:Hey guys, I am working on building the power supply and I am having trouble locating some of the parts on mousers site. Can someone please tell me what fuse type and value would be most appropriate. A mouser part number would really help me out . This is for a US model. Also, what lamp have people used and liked so far? I have noticed a lot of Fender amp style lamps being used, which I think looks really cool.
Thanks
I think these will work
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=20105000021virtualkey57610000virtualkey576-20105000021
If you use a power transformer with a 6.3 VAC tap you can use this
http://tubedepot.com/lamps.html
-Dave
Danypoctop said:This is the transformer i used so it is ok wire it in parralle for 120V contry and replace the 680 330 pair with a 1.5 K with the 1K pot 5 W and youl be fine ,
Dany,
wave said:Are you saying that if the VPT230-110 is used the 680/330 resistor pair is switched for a 1.5K and the 500 ohm 5W pot is switched for a 1K 5W pot?
Dave
Enter your email address to join: