Looking good Spence! Only thing I would suggest for subtle improvements would be maybe polish some of the machining grooves, or bead blast a matte finish out of the body, and get pan head screws to not snag on anything and look cleaner. Like this photo:
yeah, i'll try and countersink the bottom ones a bit, top ones are ok.
This test piece didn't come out as well as the other two i've done so far, cleaning the attachment wire each time before plating I have started to do and its much improved.
Will post more photos later, trying to crack through them all and running out of time!!!!
It's preferred for solder joints to have a mechanical connection in addition to the solder. If you insert the isolation pin backwards, you can create "j hooks" to wrap the pin and have a more reliable connection.
I've got one of these assembled and it wasn't working. . I went through and took measurements to compare to Muffy1975's post back on page12 or 13, and Was getting pretty much exactly the same voltages as he was (his didn't work either). I realized that I had a short at pad AA to the screw that I tried to mount to the railing. I pulled that screw and bracket and after measuring for polarization, I’m getting 15.65v at AA, and the output is really quiet. Both of my 10M resistors still measure as good. I’ll try to go through and measure all of the transistors again, but not sure where else to look for the low polarization voltage. I'm using an eab Telefunken 10:1 transformer, and have the higher resistance leads measured going to pad 1 and 2, and the lower resistance measured leads to the xlr pads 3.4. Here are the voltage measurements that Muffy1975 posted a while back:
on the 2n3819 T1 i have
source = 23.6v
on T2 i have
C = 0.592
on T3 i have
T4 i have
T5 i have
on T6 i have
T7 i have
and 15.4v from the 10m resistor to the junction with the 1g resistor.