New G1176 design ?

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yes Gustav, and they are fine PCB's you are producing.

I don't have the software to edit the gerber files.I have only heard
the results of the two changes I did(cuts in the grnd trace in two spots).
I am satisfied with the results.

I guess the question is ....Which cut choice gives the quietest results?

Hopefully it will be decided soon.

cheers,
Lance
 
that's perfection Jakob,

I did forget to mention the change for the output transistors BD139/140 etc.

I think most people are using these pin out types.

I wouldn't be surprised if both trace cut themes are getting the same results, so why not try some boards with the idea you like best.

cheers,
Lance
 
For what it's worth...

I've finished the refinements to my layout and I'll send it out for some quotes this week. But I was wondering if I make boards that can handle interlocked pushbutton switches that they sell at RS would there be any interest?

Just to recap my current layout:
Lundahl or OEP transformer on input OR output
Lundahl output transformer wired 1:2 for increased gain equivalent to the original - OEP also wired 1:2
Output transistor pads for BD135/136 or 139/140 pinouts
Three types of trim pots can be fitted in any position
Additional pad for stereo interconnect
More room for power supply capacitors
Star ground scheme for no hum
Additional pad for shielded cable ground to attack pot and G.R. disable switch
 
> I guess the question is ....Which cut choice gives the quietest results?

Hopefully it will be decided soon.



yours does...

check the other thread

christian
 
Here's Christian's PCB edit suggestion:

1176_ground_edit_idea.gif


Please let me know if this working for you also..!

Jakob E.
 
Hi folks,
currently i am building a stereo version of the g1176 and without the transformators on the pcb measuring one channel there were actually no problems.
We did some modifications reguarding the transistors due to delivery problems as well (i'll post those later).
i'll check out the suggestion and if there are any improvements, i'll let you know.
maybe someone can give me an advice to the problem i posted reguarding the barrier freqeuency of the Lundahl 1540.

first impressions of the work:

http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_0001.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_0004.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_0009.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_00010.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_00112.jpg
!!!now updated!!
hope it works

Greetings

J. Lohmann
 
Now we have an interesting question / idea for the signal line amp in the g1176.

we had some serious problems measuring frequencies above 40k with the original setup.
what we did is take out transistor Q6 and bridge base q6 to bas q7.
in the complementary amp we changed q8 to bc337 and q9 to bc327.
r40 and r41 are now 10Ohm and the result is a 150k barrier frequency.
what do you guys think about leaving out the transistor?
any suggestions (Jakob?)

links to the transistors:
http://www-eu2.semiconductors.com/acrobat/datasheets/BC337_3.pdf
http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/acrobat/datasheets/BC327_3.pdf

The Link for the updated schamatic part:
http://djwig3.tripod.com/upload/kickout_transistor_komplett.JPG
(don't forget the copy paste of the adress into a new browser window)

greetings J. Lohmann

remark:
sorry, the provider kicked me out. got to get the images up again tonight.
till then....
 
The original 1176LN/revF that I used as reference comes very close to the sound of the DIY-version.

And the goal of this DIY-project was approaching the original as much as possible with easily available parts.

You could do any alteration you may like, but don't expect the unit to sound the same then. You may like it better if it sounds different, but then there are lots of different things that could be changed in there to optimize measured technical specs.

I don't think blindly going for 150KHz cutoff frequency will do you any good - in any kind of audio circuits. Use your ears in stead.

Jakob E.
 
[quote author="mnats"]

I've finished the refinements to my layout and I'll send it out for some quotes this week. But I was wondering if I make boards that can handle interlocked pushbutton switches that they sell at RS would there be any interest?
[/quote]

Even if I have two 1176 boards that I haven't stuffed yet I would buy this new design. The option of different transformers plus no worries about hum makes it very interesting to me that is not that experienced´with diy.

And yes, I would like to get the pushbutton switches in there as well if possible, but it is not necessary.
 
[quote author="kubi"]Mako, I'm glad you got all the improvements and fixes for shortcomings and problems the original design had. Many of the improvements adress directly problems that unexperienced newbies had.
Would be great if we could sort it out soon and make this project yet another bit easier for beginners.

Thanks for everybody's efforts.

kubi[/quote]


I second that,thanks to everybody.I keep reading and asking questions and eventually with your help I will have a couple of these toys!!!.
Aharon
 
[quote author="mnats"]For what it's worth...
But I was wondering if I make boards that can handle interlocked pushbutton switches that they sell at RS would there be any interest?
[/quote]

Do you have any part# for this switches?
 
I prefer to wire up a rotary rather than the interlocking switches only because its much easier to drill a hole and it is to hollow out the channel needed to mount the switch and still have it look neat. I wish I had access to a metal shop, but alas, its just me and a drill press....

dave
 
The part numbers are back at the large and growing "All Things G1176.." post but I'll paste them here:

Sold in multiples of 10
stock no. price each
PCB mounting type 10-240 250-990
single 344-647 AUS$ 0.92 AUS$ 0.85
(April 2004 Catalogue page 1032)
Sold in multiples of 5
stock no. price each
5-70 75-245
Latching bar 333-625 AUS$ 6.22 AUS$ 5.79
(April 2004 Catalogue page 1032)

These are from the Australian RS site. The prices in the UK are much less...

Problem is the buttons that fit are hard to come by. I used non-interlocking switches for my clone and buttons for those are easily available (in black, grey or red too).

The metal work is also a problem. You need to cut out a slot to fit four buttons. I used a cheap angle grinder to rough out the hole and finished it with a file. It's far easier to drill a hole for a rotary.

I got some feedback from one manufacturer on the layout itself that I thought was pretty funny:
Grid = 25thou, excellent
45¤ degree chamfers off your main trunks to final tracks, excellent
general track widths , excellent

R55 and RV with double centre pin/pads, bloody excellent pre-planning

over at 5850, 1575 you have 2 outlines for a couple of transformers etc
and in your brilliance, they arer different sized outlines, cute

There were also some suggestions of things that can be improved so I'll do some further refinements before sending it off for manufacture. So far it looks as though I'll be able to offer this for the standard going price...

I've got a job now so don't worry, I'm not going to try making a living out of selling boards :wink:
 
now my posts are updated.
don't forget the copy paste of the url into a new windows.

greetings.

http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_0001.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_0004.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_0009.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_00010.jpg
http://djwig4.tripod.com/upload/IMG_00112.jpg
!!!now updated!!
hope it works
 
I don't know what i did wrong.
i tried tripod 2 times now and just uploaded 2 pdfs and 7 photos that is in total under 5mb.
within 2 hours the whole account got deleted.
holy ish!
before i post another thread here in the forum i check another provider and wait a little.
hopefully it will not get deleted again.


reguards

J. Lohmann
 
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