Kev
Well-known member
What is your current solution to the four bank interlocked push switch ?
New G1176 design ?
- Thread starter Gustav
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Flippant answer: Jakob's rotary switch idea.
More serious answer: I would like to try those switches from RS but can't bring myself to pay the price they ask for them right now...
If I can sell a few boards to get back some of the money I put up to make them I'll grit my teeth and order some switches, then post a pcb layout.
mnats
I`m looking at your wiring page, the part where you connect your electrical ground to the chassis.
Where do you connect the mains earth? I always connect it to the same place that you have connected your signal ground i.e star earth.
Its just that you say this is the only place you connect the earth to the chassis & I can only see the connection from the circuit board, so I`m wondering where the mains one is.
I`m looking at your wiring page, the part where you connect your electrical ground to the chassis.
Where do you connect the mains earth? I always connect it to the same place that you have connected your signal ground i.e star earth.
Its just that you say this is the only place you connect the earth to the chassis & I can only see the connection from the circuit board, so I`m wondering where the mains one is.
I don't plan to add any mains wiring instructions to my wiring page. Guess I've become paranoid living in a place where you aren't supposed to even replace a light switch unless you're a licensed electrician!
If you do a search I'm sure you'll find some good advice on where to wire the mains earth :wink:
If you do a search I'm sure you'll find some good advice on where to wire the mains earth :wink:
guitarmaker
Well-known member
Thought this would be a good time to chime in here. I just finished my 1176 clone using the OEP in/out trannys and mnat's board.
http://www.pacinfo.com/~sholst/1176.gif
It works. It actually works really, really well. Best of all, it's quiet. If I have the in and out turned up all the way and if I have my headphone amp up all the way I can hear some faint hum but that's it. At normal use levels it's dead quiet. No heavy buss bar added, just the basic board. Lots of gain with this setup as well. I couldn't be happier.
I found, like others, that it's important to have the center tap from the power supply go to the board and not directly to the XLR ground point. The torroid placement is pretty important with this too.
I also used the non-interlocking pushbutton switches and like the way they look. Yeah, it'd be neat if they were interlocking but this is okay with me.
A huge hero type thanks to Gyraf and mnat as well as everyone that posted tips and helpful advice for this project and kept it organized. You guys are the best and deserve much more thanks than just I can dole out.
Steve
http://www.pacinfo.com/~sholst/1176.gif
It works. It actually works really, really well. Best of all, it's quiet. If I have the in and out turned up all the way and if I have my headphone amp up all the way I can hear some faint hum but that's it. At normal use levels it's dead quiet. No heavy buss bar added, just the basic board. Lots of gain with this setup as well. I couldn't be happier.
I found, like others, that it's important to have the center tap from the power supply go to the board and not directly to the XLR ground point. The torroid placement is pretty important with this too.
I also used the non-interlocking pushbutton switches and like the way they look. Yeah, it'd be neat if they were interlocking but this is okay with me.
A huge hero type thanks to Gyraf and mnat as well as everyone that posted tips and helpful advice for this project and kept it organized. You guys are the best and deserve much more thanks than just I can dole out.
Steve
![Soldering Iron Kit, 120W LED Digital Advanced Solder Iron Soldering Gun kit, 110V Welding Tools, Smart Temperature Control [356℉-932℉], Extra 5pcs Tips, Auto Sleep, Temp Calibration, Orange](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51sFKu9SdeL._SL500_.jpg)
bradzatitagain
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2004
- Messages
- 295
Hey Steve, that's a damned handsome compressor, no suprise from the maker of a damned handsome semihollowbody gee-tar. Did you make the numbered dials with rub on letters or purchase them?
Brad
Brad
guitarmaker
Well-known member
Thanks! :grin:
The dial plates are actually salvaged off who knows what from my dad. He was an electronics teacher back when you could learn that in high school. He's saved a lot of stuff from that era (60's) and from the military. They would sell off old test equipment for $0.25/lb. I still use a lot of that today. I think that even at that price the Tek scope he picked up cost about a million $$. Heavy beast.
Steve
The dial plates are actually salvaged off who knows what from my dad. He was an electronics teacher back when you could learn that in high school. He's saved a lot of stuff from that era (60's) and from the military. They would sell off old test equipment for $0.25/lb. I still use a lot of that today. I think that even at that price the Tek scope he picked up cost about a million $$. Heavy beast.
Steve
bradzatitagain
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2004
- Messages
- 295
Wow, so you've got a big juicy pile of spares to pick through. I'm getting woozy just thinking about all the jewel lights...
matthias
Well-known member
@ guitarmaker: very nice !! did you cut the ground plane on the board to minimize hum??
G
Guest
Guest
guitarmaker very very nice
how did you paint it? what colour?
Sort of puts that little black and white box underneath it to shame (as it should)
how did you paint it? what colour?
Sort of puts that little black and white box underneath it to shame (as it should)
guitarmaker
Well-known member
Thanks for the compliments :grin:
I didn't modify mnat's board at all. No cuts or added buss bar. Works great as is. Highly recommended.
Yes, it's great to have an electronics pack rat for a dad. I still don't know half of what he's collected over the years. I'm pretty green with electronics so it's exciting for me dig into the stuff.
The paint is a rattle can of engine enamel called "universal grey". Seems like the engine enamels dry faster and harder than regular rattle can paint. Probably ought to use a spray gun and real car paint but I get waaay to excited to see if it works.
Steve
I didn't modify mnat's board at all. No cuts or added buss bar. Works great as is. Highly recommended.
Yes, it's great to have an electronics pack rat for a dad. I still don't know half of what he's collected over the years. I'm pretty green with electronics so it's exciting for me dig into the stuff.
The paint is a rattle can of engine enamel called "universal grey". Seems like the engine enamels dry faster and harder than regular rattle can paint. Probably ought to use a spray gun and real car paint but I get waaay to excited to see if it works.
Steve
