New u87 Body

[Khron]

Different cap values, different resistors value... What am I missing ? Is the ORS87 based on the U87i ?

And just how much difference (and in what direction) would you imagine the alternate values make?

While the idea is indeed based on the original U87 circuit, at least my version has a more... dare i call it, "sane" BOM (bill-of-materials). No point in needing 10-15 different component values, when five will do just as well (if not better).

 

[thomasdf]

Ok, thanks for clearing it up. I am not saying one is better than the other. But I would like to get closer to the original design here... and I already have almost all the parts, vintage NOS capacitors to play with, etc.

I am no microphone wizard like you and some guys around here, but I know what I like in the OG, and would like to give it a shot

 

[AndyM]

Agggghhh! I feel like we’re so close to really accurate bodies, I wish these had working switches.

Maybe I’ll have to be the one to figure this out. I wonder if something could be 3d printed and use magnets to activate a reed switch…

Was wondering if you have figured out a way in the meantime?

 

[OneRoomStudio]

Well, there is this U87 body kit now. I asked the seller if it includes switches, but I haven't heard back. It would be great if this was a viable option!
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807592342089.html

 

[RuudNL]

It looks like you have to add the magnets and the reed contacts yourself. Only the mechanical parts.

 

[OneRoomStudio]

It looks like you have to add the magnets and the reed contacts yourself. Only the mechanical parts.

I think you’re right. I’m mostly interested to see if the switch actuators are included.

 

[thomasdf]

At some point a random guy offered this kit for around 300usd on the forum, and the post got deleted.
I think 211 usd is still a bit on the expensive side, and from what I see the PCB mounting is aimed at the AI version ?

Anyways, I have been working on a U87i PCB to fit the body discussed in the thread here, with the idea to make the gerbers available here for free, for the community and non profit use.

Stay tuned

 

[kingkorg]

IMHO the best part about that body is that one could interchange circuits and capsules.

 

[Dylan W]

One detail that might be worth verifying is to make sure the plastic circle (that holds the interconnect pins for the removable head) is made of a material with similar electrical properties as the original.

I recall Oliver Archut writing that, in the Lucas mics, there were issues with acrylic boards being laser cut vs water cut and that affecting the resistance/isolation. Just a thought, since it's an extremely high-impedance node.

 

[soliloqueen]

This is not the same body as the fake u87. It's a similar body with the same plastic parts. Can't verify that the performance is as good

 

[thomasdf]

Hi all

So I started with schematics down here, to kicad, to this gerber
Untested yet but the boards turned out great from JLCPCB
Only mistake is the mounting holes are approx 1mm too close to each other, so I have to very lightly bend the mounting rails for the holes to line up. The body can still be assembled without problem.

I offer no guarantee, no help with the build etc. It is pretty much 1:1 the orig schematic and there are plenty of info around.

In case you don't want to use them L1 and L2 must be replaced by a straight wire, and C21 and C22 omitted.

Rename the TXT to ZIP to get the gerber

High Z teflon pins are meant to be Mouser no 534-11218
There are different options for C7, orig is tant but some like to mount bigger caps.

I am slowly starting to build a cardiod only pair of these, I'll report back... If someone else goes first, let me/us know I'll use a pair of UTM transformers and I'd like to use a pair of Arienne's cardiod K87 capsules when available

Cheers

 

[AndyM]

HL-95 Body just arrived. Here it is next to a TLM-67
The HL-95 so far does not exhibit the same resonant ringing sound that the HL-77 has. The body shell is fairly heavy brass, so it has some heft. The black "rings" around the bottom cap and at the faux switch level are just thin plain black tape that has been applied a bit sloppily.
And as seen in the previously posted internal photos, the rails are a bit closer together than the HL-77 so dropping in a PCB like the Fuchs or the Bouchard 87 will require some finessing, so while I think it's a pretty cool body for $60 delivered from Aliexpress, it's not a "plug and play" type of solution like other bodies.

What is the width of the 3 openings/windows for the switches?

 

[AndyM]

Hi everyone,
my HL-95 has finally arrived. Since you couldn't order from Germany I had it shipped to Colisexpat in Spain and forward it to me. This actually worked pretty well.
As mentioned before, the black tape is applied rather sloppily.

Luckily it seems forgiving and will stick again when applied more carefully.

The sticker for the faux LC and pad switches are kind of funny.



The tab for the pattern switch seemed a bit bent. So I tried to bend it back. Bad idea - crack!

Besides that it seems to be a well made body.

 

[joulupukki]

I received mine last week too. The black sticker stripes are bound to fall off and the cardioid sticker is crooked just like what you're showing here. If anyone ever designs a PCB for some actual switches that'd work in this body, I'd be interested. I built the Fuchs U87A circuit in this mic and it's sounding great, but it'd be nice to have the switches accessible instead of needing to open it up and use jumpers.

 

[Khron]

If anyone ever designs a PCB for some actual switches that'd work in this body, I'd be interested.

Send me a body and I'll see what i can do

 

[OneRoomStudio]

The black sticker stripes are bound to fall off

Agreed. I pulled mine off and used some enamel paint/nail polish to paint those areas black.

 

[AndyM]

Hmm, interesting. Will keep an eye on mine.

 

[Rob Flinn]

Send me a body and I'll see what i can do

I used some epoxy glue to stick some sub miniature pcb mount switches to the underside of the capsule mounting plate for the filter & pad. I used a small bit of perforated pcb to bolt the pattern switch to the other side of the plate, I couldn't glue it because I think there was a screw that I needed to get to in the way. However if there was a pcb available for this task I would probably buy one.