Walnut shells for aluminum.You need pretty good protective gear for using these - we used an industrial sandblaster where I used to work in the auto shop, there were special steel mesh gloves and these were mounted into the lock-down top visor hood of the machine. These things will take you down to the bone and the flying blast particles go everywhere including your eyes. They go through a ferocious amount of blast grit - our machine had a recovery hopper at the base which then fed the grit back into the system. Aluminium will disappear at an alarming rate.
The data sheets for any paint are the best guide. The VHT paints seem to be fairly good.I guess not. It just says metal. The etching primers they have say they are for aluminum. Not VOC though.
I've seen small table top sand blast cabinets. I figured I'd start with something like baking soda in a mostly sealed plastic bin.
I thought it might look cool to ding it up kind of like hand hammered. Then clear coat it then mark it with a stencil (vinyl cutters are cheap and I don't need tiny fonts or closely packed lettering). Then clear coat the top. I was thinking it might look kind of 3D. Just thinking out loud.Walnut shells for aluminum.
You can buy grits for all sorts of applications. Back in the ‘90s I did part time work for a company salvaging tree trunks from swamps and rivers to make exotic furniture with natural timber edges and I used to sandblast the bark off the logs with a portable machine - I had to wear full protective suit and helmet - you could strip an entire tree trunk in less than 5min - this machine used silicon carbide grit that was a thick sharp ended flake. Nasty hot work out in 40degC summer days. There was a finishing grit that gave a nice smooth finish to the exposed timber and I’m pretty sure this was crushed walnut shellWalnut shells for aluminum.
Bead blasting gives that sort of finishI thought it might look cool to ding it up kind of like hand hammered. Then clear coat it then mark it with a stencil (vinyl cutters are cheap and I don't need tiny fonts or closely packed lettering). Then clear coat the top. I was thinking it might look kind of 3D. Just thinking out loud.
Like this one - the holes at the front lead into the gloves:
Yeah I would have used cardboard for my spray box if I didn’t have a few 6 foot sheets of Corflute and rolls of duct tape lying around - I had to make it breakdownable (I know, it’s not a real word but I like it) as I don’t have anywhere to store it made up as mine is a bit larger than the hobby ones on eBay. It works really well as I used a high CFM fan to suck the air past the job and kill overspray, an air duct filter plate from the local hardware and a pile of Dacron in the fan box for additional filtering. For larger spray jobs I have used plastic dropsheets outdoors stretched between spike poles hammered into the ground - bit of gaffer and instant spray backdrop.
There are paints designed for use in harsh environments, specifically aimed at aluminium railings
Finally got a chance this weekend to look at those inserts.....there are 3or 4...Clean the cured primer surface before applying topcoats. Better still unbolt the railing and paint it out of the wind and salt.
Look for stripping compound that is ok with aluminium. Best best is the brush on gel stripper - you leave it on until the paint bubbles away and then if the bond is loosened enough the paint will hose of - better if you have a pressure washer - you can use this (but ONLY after hosing off to neutralise the stripper or you’ll get caustic stuff flying everywhere - even the non caustic can’t be good for your eyes!). You need a good area to work with paint stripper removal to dispose of the stripped paint and excess stripper. You could try a heat gun and see if this will work before going down the stripping path.Finally got a chance this weekend to look at those inserts.....there are 3or 4...
Sweet they can easily be removed.... Don't really want to strip every single inch...but maybe a soak in some citrus gel stripper in a tub?...... Can I just scrape, sand and wire wheel off as far as needed then prime? Same primer ok for coating that stays? I'm not looking for a nice finish so not going to obsess where feather may look bad.... but will still try my best...can't imagine the remaining good coat is worth leaving though....
Need to start stressing about color matching soon
The respirator is for both particulates and vapor. It uses 3M 6200 and 7502 filters. I also bought goggles that seal around the edges just in case the paint is an eye irritant.Just make sure the respirator is not just particulate matter filtering - if it’s a proper spray mask all good.