PASSIVE RELAY-BASED CONTROLL ROOM KITS BUILD/SUPPORT TREAD

[rob_gould]

Great news to hear it's solved!

And very reassuring to know that the code works too...

 

[Janzoulou]

I posted this already in The TB-combiner - Thread. But maybe here are more watching...?

Hey there, if by any chance, someone can help:

I need to connect two extra TB-mics for 2 recording rooms... (ADR session with Cutter in the recording room)

So I got an http://www.apart-audio.com/Category/Details5?cat2=APART&cat3=40.MICROPHONES&cat4=3010_ALL_CALL&cat5=3010_ALL_CALL&productcode=MICPAT-D  "Apart MICPAT -D "which has a parallel switch to send a DC (eg 5v).

Actually I only need the information where to apply 5V or 12V to toggle DIM

Cheers to you all! Fredi

 

[Janzoulou]

Ok.. I´ll try it again..

Does anybody know if there is a way to engage DIM on the CRM from external? I am reading the schematics and can't find a solution... please.  :'(

 

[moamps]

I am reading the schematics and can't find a solution...

Could you post the schematic here? Or link to it.

 

[Janzoulou]

I am reading the schematics and can't find a solution...

Could you post the schematic here? Or link to it.

Hi Moamps! Thanks for your answer!! The links are in the beginning of the thread. But I already came to a different solution.

for everybody interested, I decided to use a HWBP pcb from Volker to get an external DIM - control for the Main Output on my CRM. And there comes up another solution: CUT.  Often asked for and I think this is the best way, doing it. Therefore I am glad about the decision putting the audio - & control - pcb into the same housing. Adding 4 HWBP and a switch for CUT into the front panel - done! Cheers, Fredi

 

[solderboy]

Owns someone still the schematics?

Thank you!

 

[100WChris]

Owns someone still the schematics?

Schems are in the first post…

 

[skidmorebay]

Since I know Igor isn't listening, can anyone tell me -

I want to hook up a subwoofer. I'm going to use the mono LFE channel on the sub, since the sub's left and right inputs are already being used by the Monitor 1 pair of speakers, and I want to be able switch the sub in and out when using my NS10's which are hooked up to Monitor 2.
SO, can I just combine the SUB L and SUB R outputs on one connector, or do I need do do something to get the combined level of the two sub outputs down by 3db to suit the pan law, etc?
thanks.

 

[100WChris]

Hi skidmorebay,
im not sure if i understand your problem, but you can trim every in- and output of your CRM 
Igor explained this in Reply 208 on page 11 of this thread.
Chris

 

[Gilbert]

Finished building a kit that was partially stuffed by another member.  I'm getting a bad ground hum on my left side only. Tried removing the VGA pin 4 connection described earlier in the thread figuring it would help, but no such luck.  For whatever reason in the 0 and -32 db attenuation position there is no hum.  Sounds great in those two positions, such a tease! thanks for any help on the issue.

 

[skidmorebay]

I would probably check all of the external cabling and connectors first. Then check that the signal is being attenuated correctly even when the hum is present (which would mean the relays are functioning correctly and the resistors are properly in-circuit). Something like a solder bridge on the db25 pins on the pcb could be an issue. 
Good luck. Mine has been (knock on wood) reliable for several years.

 

[Gilbert]

Thanks for the quick reply! Surely  something simple.. usually is aghh
I checked the external connections on the dsub cables and made sure of no soldier bridges anywhere on the pcb dsub in/out

It's attenuating the signal, and as the signal goes down the hum stays the same.  This is the case no matter what input or output I'm on and always just the left.

 

[skidmorebay]

Another thing would be to swap the left and right inputs at your interface and see if the hum stays in the left channel. If the hum moves to the other speaker, then it's coming from "upstream" of the CRM.
Then  swap the outputs at the monitors. If the hum doesn't move then it is downstream of the CRM.

Also, you can try plugging your interface into different inputs on the CRM. If the noise exists on Input 1 but not Input 2 that would at least isolate it to the connector. Ditto for the outputs.

I've had some luck with other processors from taking a jumper to chassis ground and touching it to various grounds on the pcb until something diminishes the noise.

 

[boji]

Hello All!

Does anyone have copies to the Bom and build photos / links that Igor once posted concerning this relay driven attenuator build?  Most of the links are broken since it's such an old project.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have most of the parts but no build reference!

By the way, if someone can send me what he initially posted,  I'll reup them to my imgur account and try to get the main links fixed.

Thank you in advance!    ;D
-Boji

 

[skidmorebay]

Here's a copy of Igor's build folder:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lrmwwwnopnd4y9p/AABq-rTnpe1I2P2V0-fz3pGra?dl=0

It would be best to move it to a safer location. No guarantee my Dropbox will be the same a year from now.

FYI, my CRM has been going strong since 2012. I recently bought a bunch of JLM Audio's "Regurgitators" to provide buffers for the input and output:
https://www.jlmaudio.com/shop/regurgitator-pcb-8pak.html
But, I probably won't get around to using them, since I recently got a Crookwood monitor controller as part of one of their consoles. I wanted to be sure that what I was hearing wouldn't be modified by the loading of my DA converter and speaker amp. The JLM circuit is supposed to offer really low distortion specs at unity gain.

 

[niconeemis]

Hello guys ! i'm selling my igor passive monitoring controller. full working order. 400€. PM me if interested.

 

[rvlt]

Hello,

does anyone still have that HEX file for the project? I built a CRM but the remote control is basically doing nothing, just all LEDs are on when powering up. I checked the supply voltages and the usual suspects (VGA cable ..), but I'm pretty sure the PIC is not working.

I got a new 18F4620 today and have a burner, so that file would help a lot.

Thanks!
Lars

 

[rvlt]

Thanks to a kind member I got the Hex file, put it on the new PIC and it's working now

One question: did anybody do the "Sub to Speaker 3" modification? Igor explained it in post #361, but unfortunately the first picture is missing, so I have no idea which traces to cut/jumper..

Changing the SUB to Speaker 3 (i.e. instead of having spk1 or spk 2 and sub over it, one of 3 speakers: spk1/spk2/spk3)


http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg291/diy33609/CRM/CRM sub to spk 3 mod/

cut = magenta
connect = white


Please ignore wrongly cutted and connected back trace here:


http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg291/diy33609/CRM/CRM sub to spk 3 mod/P1060837.jpg

All tested and rechecked twice.

 

[Audioman]

Hi guys,
I need to create a second vga connector on the front of the unit,
I wanted to know if any of you have ever made this modification.
I found these boards on aliexpress that could do the job.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005...t_main.11.7a103696PqIZ7p&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

 

[Whoops]

Hi mates,
I need a monitor controller and would love to do this project.

So I'm looking to Buy a Kit, or an already assembled unit.

Does anyone have a spare/unused Kit to sell or an already built unit?

Thanks