b3groover
Well-known member
Thanks, Joe! This is exciting!!! ![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Toroids are not usually as quiet hum inducing wise as copper strapped EI or encased EI. They are definitely quieter than non strapped or non shielded EI. But it always get down to don't bolt up a transformer until you have the pre going so you can turn it and see where the hum is at a minimum. Also the biggest leakage from a toroid is where the mains wires leave the toroid ring. So usually keep these closest to the edge of the case.I do want to keep the PSU inside the rack if possible. Should I worry about noise with that non-toroidial transformer you recommend?
Wall warts have a temp or current fuse usually built into the transformer. So if you overload it it will stop and never go again. So a fuse after it is a good idea as fuses are cheaper than wall warts. When using a wall wart with the JLM power supplies wire one of the AC wires to 0v and the other to only one of the AC ins and leave the other unused. If your wall wart has a ground wire as well just wire that to the metal pre amp case.when using those wall wart power transformers, does that illimate the need for a fuse on the circuit? Whats the proper way to wire those, just run the AC to the power supply and thats it?
A trick if you have a power switch on the front panel near some low level audio signal and using a wall wart is to switch the wire that goes to the 0v on the JLM power supply instead of the other wire going to the AC in because that way when the switch is on the wire going to and from the power switch is just at 0v with no large AC noise on itAlso the wire with the AC on it can go straight to the AC in on the JLM PCB (or with a fuse in line) which with the right layout will be a very short path.