Forcemusicgroup
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2019
- Messages
- 94
Anyone care to post some sound samples.
Reddish 500 EQ
- Thread starter JMan
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
My prototype is on loan to studio here in Chicago, so I can't do sound samples currently. If you would be willing to create some when your unit is finished, it would be a welcome contribution!
Last edited:
slipperyflax
Well-known member
While waiting for the UTM order I couldn't help myself.. So I testfitted the PCB on the metalwork from Kevin (just soldered one pin on components that could effect alignment on the front panel) and now I wonder if anyone else noticed that this step is impossible:
When I'm placing the toothed washers between the switches and the L-bracket I can't fit the PCB on the mounting screws. It's just too tight. When removing the washers I do have a good fit. Since the step in the build guide says it's non-optional I thought I'd throw the question out there..
When I'm placing the toothed washers between the switches and the L-bracket I can't fit the PCB on the mounting screws. It's just too tight. When removing the washers I do have a good fit. Since the step in the build guide says it's non-optional I thought I'd throw the question out there..
I am not sure why that would be, but go ahead and try it without the washers. Bear in mind that I designed everything here with the metalwork from Frank, and although Kevin got the same files from me, he did make some small tweaks. His version ended up coming with a powder coat finish, right? Maybe that is what is affecting that spacing.
Regardless, try it without the washers, but pay very close attention when you tighten the nuts on the switches when mounting the front panel. If there is any gap between the switch body and the L bracket, you will want to add something (maybe a flat washer) so that you aren't cranking on the Grayhills and stressing their pins. But if it's a perfect fit, hey, that's even better! Please report back.
Regardless, try it without the washers, but pay very close attention when you tighten the nuts on the switches when mounting the front panel. If there is any gap between the switch body and the L bracket, you will want to add something (maybe a flat washer) so that you aren't cranking on the Grayhills and stressing their pins. But if it's a perfect fit, hey, that's even better! Please report back.
slipperyflax
Well-known member
I was thinking maybe the powder coat was the difference to but I feel it shouldn't add as much thickness as the spacer would but.. Thank you for the pointers!
Unless they really caked it on, the powder coat only adds about .25mm maximum total (total = front and back), but usually is closer to only .10-.15mm, based on what I’ve measured out of curiosity that I’ve gotten from Frank, SendCutSend, and Front Panel Express. If it’s close you could maybe use a small round file to elongate the PCB hole a little bit. I have a set of small hobby files that I keep in my kit for any fudging I may need to do.
I agree that the powder coat shouldn't add much, but the only other thing I can think of is that perhaps the bend on the L bracket is a little tighter on Kevin's metalwork (not a bad thing at all).
My thought is that if it fits snugly without the toothed washer, it's as simple as leaving out the toothed washer. There wouldn't be any problem with that. I had things laid out so that the washer was working as a spacer, which was needed when using the metalwork that I had Frank fabricate, but if it's not needed on Kevin's bracket, it can just be left out. If, on the other hand, a small spacer is required (more than nothing, less than the toothed washer), a simple flat washer or two of appropriate thickness would be my choice. Again, the only goal here is to make sure everything is snug and that there is no additional stress being applied to the solder joints on the switches when fastening the front panel.
My thought is that if it fits snugly without the toothed washer, it's as simple as leaving out the toothed washer. There wouldn't be any problem with that. I had things laid out so that the washer was working as a spacer, which was needed when using the metalwork that I had Frank fabricate, but if it's not needed on Kevin's bracket, it can just be left out. If, on the other hand, a small spacer is required (more than nothing, less than the toothed washer), a simple flat washer or two of appropriate thickness would be my choice. Again, the only goal here is to make sure everything is snug and that there is no additional stress being applied to the solder joints on the switches when fastening the front panel.
Wow! I know you wound your own inductors. Did you also wind the input and output transformers yourself? 
slipperyflax
Well-known member
Well, I soldered switches and everything tonight and tried the fit of it all and in my case it fits like a gloves without the toothed washer. Sorry for bad quality pics but I cheaped out when buying my latest phone
(I have not forgotten about R0, promise!)
Nice! Looks great!Well, I soldered switches and everything tonight and tried the fit of it all and in my case it fits like a gloves without the toothed washer. Sorry for bad quality pics but I cheaped out when buying my latest phone
View attachment 135512View attachment 135513View attachment 135514
(I have not forgotten about R0, promise!)
Outstanding!
I've uploaded V1.1 of the build guide to the first post. It includes a brief note reflecting @slipperyflax 's finding and the inclusion (or not) of these washers as well as an addendum to help match leads when using either of the UTM output transformers.
I've uploaded V1.1 of the build guide to the first post. It includes a brief note reflecting @slipperyflax 's finding and the inclusion (or not) of these washers as well as an addendum to help match leads when using either of the UTM output transformers.
Volume11
Well-known member
I received UTM3523LP transformers from the group buy. I'm checking the docs, and its not helping me much. Do I need to tie a couple of these leads together? The Grayhill mod worked great, and was very easy, thanks for the heads up on that.
@Volume11 The version of the build guide that is currently attached to the first post includes an addendum all the way at the end with a table for how to match the UTM lead colors. It should be pretty straightforward once you're looking at that. For the 3523LP, you do need to tie two of the leads together - from memory, I want to say it was black and blue, but definitely refer to that table I mentioned to confirm.
Volume11
Well-known member
I see it now, thank you!
Volume11
Well-known member
Do you just snip off the middle lead for this?
No, I bend Pin 2 (center pin) over to Pin 3, flat to the bottom of the trimmer, bend 1 and 3 to fit the resistor footprint, tack 2 to 3 with a little solder, pre-trim it to the value of the resistor it’s replacing, then insert it and solder it to the PCB, same as you do for the resistors.
Last edited:
Volume11
Well-known member
Awesome, I added one to my order to try it out. Thank you
