Redox G36

[hfasher]

Hello, I’m new to analogue gear but learning all the time.
I just bought (hasn’t arrived yet) a Revox G36 mk I. I want to send and record audio onto tape via my RME UFX interface. Mostly for Drums. Do I need some sort of audio transformer for the IO’s on the G36? I hear impedance is the issue here. Is there some sort of transformer I can use outside of the machine?
Appreciate your help.
Hugh

 

[rock soderstrom]

Hi Hugh, the name of the company is REVOX.

Cheers

 

[hfasher]

Hi Hugh, the name of the company is REVOX.

Cheers

Rectified. Cheers

 

[gyraf]

..anything RME will run just fine with the G36..

Impedance mismatch is waaaay down on the list of important problems

..let us know how it goes..!

/Jakob E.

 

[hfasher]

Ok Cool. Thanks Jakob. Will do.

Hugh

 

[hfasher]

A real beauty. Just in case this post is read I can report that it works perfectly with the RME interface though I have the line input setting on low gain on the RME and I also don’t feed the g36 much level before I get distortion.

 

[PermO]

On the input side you'll be fine.

In my experience, running the cathode follower outputs directly into a 20K line input of my mixer made it sound rather dark.
Using a couple of high Z inputs on a pre amp fixed that.

I made a single tube impedance buffer, now I can hook the outputs up to anything.

It's looking really good !.. you got a nice one, congratulations !

 

[Bo Deadly]

That does look like a nice one. That might be the same tech as Studer J series use by the Beatles. Remove the head cover, put it in bright sunlight, clean the lens of your phone with an alcohol wipe and take a good close up picture of the heads but at an angle such that you can see the flattened part of the heads. Then post that here. If the heads are in good shape, and it's possible looking at the rest of the machine, you should get some fresh lubricated tape. Might need to adjust the bias for perfection though. Would also make a good tape echo.

 

[hfasher]

On the input side you'll be fine.

In my experience, running the cathode follower outputs directly into a 20K line input of my mixer made it sound rather dark.
Using a couple of high Z inputs on a pre amp fixed that.

I made a single tube impedance buffer, now I can hook the outputs up to anything.

It's looking really good !.. you got a nice one, congratulations !

That’s pretty cool. It’s sounds ok to me straight into the sound card but I’ll keep a lookout for a pre with high z

 

[hfasher]

That does look like a nice one. That might be the same tech as Studer J series use by the Beatles. Remove the head cover, put it in bright sunlight, clean the lens of your phone with an alcohol wipe and take a good close up picture of the heads but at an angle such that you can see the flattened part of the heads. Then post that here. If the heads are in good shape, and it's possible looking at the rest of the machine, you should get some fresh lubricated tape. Might need to adjust the bias for perfection though. Would also make a good tape echo.

 

[hfasher]

I can’t work out how to get that angle. These were the best I could do. The seller seems to have done a wonderful job with maintenance. Here’s the list of things he did.

-The machine was started up gently by the control transformer.
-The anti-interference foil electrolytic capacitors have been replaced.
-In the case of the tube sockets, the axial electrolytic capacitors were counteracted
new exchanged further in the drive control.
-The capstan motor was removed and re-lubricated
heavi DTE.
-Klapping potis were disassembled and cleaned! no
spray.
-The right winding disc was replaced with a new one..
(NOS parts)
-The pinch roller has also been replaced with a (NOS) roller.
-The machine has been thoroughly cleaned.
-The heads are in very good condition and have been
demagnetized.

 

[Bo Deadly]

I can’t work out how to get that angle.

Actually the first pic shows the wear pattern preatty well. There is some significant wear but there's life left in those heads.

Here’s the list of things he did.

It always worries me when the owner says they worked on a machine. Everyone thinks they're a tape tech from watching a few videos on YT. But hopefully whatever they did was done correctly.

 

[hfasher]

Actually the first pic shows the wear pattern preatty well. There is some significant wear but there's life left in those heads.


It always worries me when the owner says they worked on a machine. Everyone thinks they're a tape tech from watching a few videos on YT. But hopefully whatever they did was done correctly.

I know what you mean but this guy was the real deal. I could tell by his workshop. I have never seen a room full of such beautiful machines. I was salavating. Plus the machine he sold me sounds amazing. What do you look for to identify ware on the heads?

 

[Bo Deadly]

What do you look for to identify ware on the heads?

In the first pic you can see the reflection in the face of the head changes in the center. In this case it's noticeably darker. That's the flatted warn part of the heads. You can see it in both the record and playback head. You can also see the guide post has a little wear. Fresh heads will have a very narrow or no flatted region. In this case it's probably 3x as much as "fresh" but it's not horrible for a machine of that vintage. You can also see the lines are nice and parallel which means the alignment is good. If the seller is as you say and provided tape, it's probably right for the machine. If you use it sparingly, don't take it out and move it around a lot and keep it and the tape in a cool and dry environment, it should last long enough to get your money's worth out of it.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

A real beauty. Just in case this post is read I can report that it works perfectly with the RME interface though I have the line input setting on low gain on the RME and I also don’t feed the g36 much level before I get distortion.

That's the most common issue when interfacing a consumer tape recorder with pro equipment. The line inputs have a quite low sensitivity and generally tend to distort when fed a typical +4dBu signal.
The usual fix is a voltage divider at the input.

 

[Whoops]

Rectified. Cheers

Not in the thread title though,
it's still "Redox"