SB4000 Support Thread

[Harpo]

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=40971.msg536508;topicseen#msg536508 ?

 

[sr1200]

Yeah, if its completely out of phase then its probably what Harpo posted, one of my units i didnt do the phase issue fix with the resistors. So I reversed the phase on the output XLR's since I dont ever plan to have that unit in the chain without being engaged.

 

[jandoste]

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=40971.msg536508;topicseen#msg536508 ?

Thanks Harpo for the link...
I have already soldered two resistor like that

So I reversed the phase on the output XLR's since I dont ever plan to have that unit in the chain without being engaged.

Hey sr1200,
What was your solution?
Thanks

 

[sr1200]

ONe of the boxes i did the "fix" by crossing the resistors on board.  The other box (where i didnt read that post first while building it) i just swapped the +/- on the pins on the XLR out.

 

[wave]

Does anyone have the Quad VCA BOM?
The download link doesn't work for me.

 

[bieckmusic]

Hello everyone-

I've trying to trouble shoot my sb4000 and am stuck with why the compressor is reacting so harshly to transients.  I've been re-soldering and checking continuity and can't find anything.  I described the problem on page 36 of this thread.  Any thoughts would be appreciated mucho!!!


Thanks!
Greg

 

[ruckus328]

Bieck-

Check for backwards diodes around the TL072 & on control board.  Check tantalum caps are correct orientation on control board.  Check TL072 orientation.  If you send a mono signal to the right channel, and then left channel, and get the same issue as you described, the problem lies somewhere after the sidechaining summing point (which starts at the input to the attack timing resistors).  Somewhere from that point on is where your problem lies, on schematic look at bottom center and bottom right side for circuitry involved.

Wave - will reuplaod shortly, don't know why it's not working

 

[wave]

ONe of the boxes i did the "fix" by crossing the resistors on board.  The other box (where i didnt read that post first while building it) i just swapped the +/- on the pins on the XLR out.

Fellow SB4000 builders,
Happy New Year everyone!

I spent 12 hours soldering resistors today. While it was awesome, I got into such a groove that I completely forgot to crosswire the 22k resistors (R24&R28 – R32&R36) on my REV.4 board.
What is the best way to approach the fix?
1. Should I do as the manual says and use buss wire jumps?
2. Should I go with sr1200's fix that I quoted above?
3. Should I remove and replace them (keeping in mind that my replacements would probably be 5% tolerance carbons instead
    of the metal films currently in there – but it really depends on what I can find locally)?

EDIT: I found some 22k 1/2 watt resistors in my stash here. Is there any reason I can't use them in place of the 1/4 watt(s)?

EDIT #2: I took out the 1/4 watts and re-oriented them. Checked with my meter and everything seems ok.

 

[sr1200]

Just a note, the fix i posted isnt really a fix for anyone in the future... all it does is put the unit back in phase when it ISNT bypassed, when you bypass it will be out of phase again, (theres a little trick to use the ext side chain w. nothing plugged in to bypass instead of the big red buttons)  just wanted to throw that out there.  I never have the unit in the chain when im not using it anyway so for me its not a biggie, i just un-patch the beast.

 

[jandoste]

Just a note, the fix i posted isnt really a fix for anyone in the future... all it does is put the unit back in phase when it ISNT bypassed, when you bypass it will be out of phase again, (theres a little trick to use the ext side chain w. nothing plugged in to bypass instead of the big red buttons)  just wanted to throw that out there.  I never have the unit in the chain when im not using it anyway so for me its not a biggie, i just un-patch the beast.

Hey Guys,
I'm only one that I got this phase?
I still have the phase problem! I have checked everything but got it 
Thanks for any advice...

 

[wave]

Just a note, the fix i posted isnt really a fix for anyone in the future... all it does is put the unit back in phase when it ISNT bypassed, when you bypass it will be out of phase again, (theres a little trick to use the ext side chain w. nothing plugged in to bypass instead of the big red buttons)  just wanted to throw that out there.  I never have the unit in the chain when im not using it anyway so for me its not a biggie, i just un-patch the beast.

sr1200,
Thanks for clarifying

 

[drjoe]

Another transformer wiring question!

I'm wiring for 115VAC with a fused IEC. I'm a little confused about the wiring.

This is the most straight forward explanation I found in the topic:

Blue and purple are together

Gray and brown are together

L hits the common tab on the switch

Other pin on the switch go's to the fuse

other side of the fuse connects to blue and purple

Brown and gray go to N on the IEC

ground.. ground. 

But since my IEC is fused, I'm not sure which side of the fuse to connect the blue / purple.

Can someone verify that my diagram is correct so far and help me determine the other two connections?

 

[sr1200]

yeah youre 99% there.  Tie off the blue and purp and connect a thick wire to those to run to the other side of the front panel switch. (make sure to shrink tube insulate it)  so you  got a lead going from L (which is the bottom pin on your pic) going to the center of the FP switch, Brown and grey are together going to N, ground goes to your chassis ground.

 

[wave]

The BOM from page 1 lists 2 16 pin DIP sockets for SK17, SK18.
I'm not finding a location for these on any of the boards.

Am I supposed to chop them in half and get 4 - 8 pin SIP sockets?
(It seems like chopped , they could populate the sockets for my THAT VCAs)

Thanks

 

[drjoe]

The BOM from page 1 lists 2 16 pin DIP sockets for SK17, SK18.
I'm not finding a location for these on any of the boards.

Am I supposed to chop them in half and get 4 - 8 pin SIP sockets?
(It seems like chopped , they could populate the sockets for my THAT VCAs)

Thanks

I just had this exact problem, and indeed, I chopped them in half (nice and clean) and mounted my VCAs on them.

Couldn't figure what else they were for and I was missing the sockets for the VCAs so it made sense.

EDIT: Note: I haven't yet powered up my unit so my advice should be taken with a grain of salt.

 

[buildafriend]

rivets to hold in your IEC? bold move..

 

[buildafriend]

You should just use my PSU wiring that is gone over earlier in this thread.

 

[wave]

drjoe,
Thanks for the input. I chopped mine.
It seems like you and I sourced the parts ourselves. I was wondering, did you get STMicro regulators (mouser # 511-L7912ACV)?
I did and then I read this support thread. Seems people were having problems with the 7912 VOLTAGE REGULATOR made by STMicro.

 

[Harpo]

Another transformer wiring question!

I'm wiring for 115VAC with a fused IEC. I'm a little confused about the wiring.

This is the most straight forward explanation I found in the topic:

Blue and purple are together

Gray and brown are together

L hits the common tab on the switch

Other pin on the switch go's to the fuse

other side of the fuse connects to blue and purple

Brown and gray go to N on the IEC

ground.. ground. 

But since my IEC is fused, I'm not sure which side of the fuse to connect the blue / purple.

Can someone verify that my diagram is correct so far and help me determine the other two connections?

The 'L' lug is the terminal below the 'N' lug from your fused IEC inlet.
Nothing wrong with using rivets to fix your IEC inlet, as long as you make sure the nail end doesn't rattle lose and drops out of the rivets hole into your case and -from murphy's law- lands on a spot where it causes the greatest harm. (Same chances are for nuts getting lose from a bolt, so a drop of paint should help to avoid this.)
The quoted colour coding from buildafriend are for his transformer. As these codings are not standarized, yours may be different, so look at the label printed on your transformer or look at the datasheet of your transformer to be sure. For 115VAC mains you connect your transformers dual primary windings in parallel by joining both in-phase winding ends (most often indicated by a dot) and both out-of-phase winding ends. Your fused IEC 'L' lug goes to the switch, other pole of your switch connects to one end (order doesn't matter) of your paralleled transformers primary windings, transformers other primary winding end connects to 'N' of your IEC inlet. IEC safety ground connects to your case ground by a solid connection. Scrap off the case painting in this spot to ensure conduction.
In buildafriends description from pg.34 of this thread he also mixed up the order of fuse and switch, but with your fused IEC inlet this will be irrelevant for you.

 

[drjoe]

drjoe,
Thanks for the input. I chopped mine.
It seems like you and I sourced the parts ourselves. I was wondering, did you get STMicro regulators (mouser # 511-L7912ACV)?
I did and then I read this support thread. Seems people were having problems with the 7912 VOLTAGE REGULATOR made by STMicro.

Yeah, I sourced myself. I just barely missed out on the kits and hadn't heard about the upcoming kit until after my purchase. I'm happy I went through the trouble though since I learned a lot in the process. Looks like I did end up with the problematic STMicro regulators. I remember reading that part of the thread many times and still missed it on the BOM. I was able to find equivalents for almost every part, but I did end up going with THAT2180C instead of THAT2181C VCA.

Have you tested your unit yet? Are you ordering replacements? I think Ruckus straight up said to replace them even if they work because eventually they will fail.

You should just use my PSU wiring that is gone over earlier in this thread.

Your posts were very helpful, but my fused IEC is different from yours and it had me conFUSED.

The 'L' lug is the terminal below the 'N' lug from your fused IEC inlet.
Nothing wrong with using rivets to fix your IEC inlet, as long as you make sure the nail end doesn't rattle lose and drops out of the rivets hole into your case and -from murphy's law- lands on a spot where it causes the greatest harm. (Same chances are for nuts getting lose from a bolt, so a drop of paint should help to avoid this.)
The quoted colour coding from buildafriend are for his transformer. As these codings are not standarized, yours may be different, so look at the label printed on your transformer or look at the datasheet of your transformer to be sure. For 115VAC mains you connect your transformers dual primary windings in parallel by joining both in-phase winding ends (most often indicated by a dot) and both out-of-phase winding ends. Your fused IEC 'L' lug goes to the switch, other pole of your switch connects to one end (order doesn't matter) of your paralleled transformers primary windings, transformers other primary winding end connects to 'N' of your IEC inlet. IEC safety ground connects to your case ground by a solid connection. Scrap off the case painting in this spot to ensure conduction.
In buildafriends description from pg.34 of this thread he also mixed up the order of fuse and switch, but with your fused IEC inlet this will be irrelevant for you.

Thanks for the tip about the rivets. I've verified the coding on my transformer spec sheet and my color coding is correct. I've adjusted the diagram to include the transformer and the switch. Does it look right now? I still have a feeling it's not correct yet so if you're face-palming while reading this please chime in.

Thanks for all the help. This forum is like an encyclopedia.

EDIT: Diagram removed, re-drawn on next page