sheadstedford
Well-known member
Hahhaa ok and your a legend for that (pcb markings) now to find an etching place in the UK.
SB4000 Support Thread
- Thread starter ruckus328
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Ruckus, is this the schemo you are talking about? http://www.livingnote.com/prodigybilder/intcrush/IntCrushSchem2.jpgruckus328 said:
ruckus328
Well-known member
No, that's the schematic for the CnB board itself. What I was talking about was livingnote's instructions on how it gets wired to the gssl board.
Picture located on this page:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=8360.140
Picture located on this page:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=8360.140
Thanks, everything clear. That's the right schemo and your link points to the wiring ;D
Hi Guys,
Just a quick one to make sure I have this right in my head. I'm using the Avel Lindberg transformer as pictured and want 240V. To achieve this I connect the blue and brown leads correct? Do I just cut the grey and violet leads away? (I take it the opposite would apply for the 110-120v guys yeah?)
Seems right to me but just want to be certain.
Just a quick one to make sure I have this right in my head. I'm using the Avel Lindberg transformer as pictured and want 240V. To achieve this I connect the blue and brown leads correct? Do I just cut the grey and violet leads away? (I take it the opposite would apply for the 110-120v guys yeah?)
Seems right to me but just want to be certain.
kepeb
Well-known member
you need to have the two primary windings in series to get 240v
probably best to tie the two centre colours together.
probably best to tie the two centre colours together.
Stagefright13
Well-known member
Tie grey and violet together! Blue and brown to wall socket.
For 110 you tie blu/vio together grey/brn together then to wall socket
John
For 110 you tie blu/vio together grey/brn together then to wall socket
John
kepeb
Well-known member
its obviously more important to wire the 110v winds in parallel with the indicated taps together (dotted in your picture)
because of phase difference but you are using European 220-240v
in this config you could also tie blue to brown and use grey/violet as the mains inputs but i prefer the other way as i said before.
also from what i understand it's good practise to follow the same phase structure throughout any build, with multiple taps on secondary etc. for instance, even if they are rectified.
whats a good/cheap source for these little tx' to the UK? should be getting my board soon ;D
because of phase difference but you are using European 220-240v
in this config you could also tie blue to brown and use grey/violet as the mains inputs but i prefer the other way as i said before.
also from what i understand it's good practise to follow the same phase structure throughout any build, with multiple taps on secondary etc. for instance, even if they are rectified.
whats a good/cheap source for these little tx' to the UK? should be getting my board soon ;D
I got these (2) from Hairball, but they came with the meters which I absorbed the freight for each piece as being worthwhile. But I'm in Oz.
Freight is a killer on the DIY I've done but I just don't think the local stores have decent components. I bought the switches from Mouser and they are so much better/ sturdier product than the cheap Chinese ones at the shop up the road.
Freight is a killer on the DIY I've done but I just don't think the local stores have decent components. I bought the switches from Mouser and they are so much better/ sturdier product than the cheap Chinese ones at the shop up the road.
kepeb
Well-known member
you have 'shops' up the road??
its like bloody Royston Vasey here
Tandy (radioshack?) closed about 12 years ago nearest is maplin 25 miles away but they mostly stock cheap plastic bubble machines, overpriced LED torches and consumer DVD players
its all gone to $H!t I tell thee!
also, just missed out in the blackmarket but found beh meters here
http://pms-electronics.com/shop1/oxid.php/sid/4ee1229c2b671514792b46dc6020c0fa/cl/details/anid/4407691d60fee8.89605405/tpl/-/lang/1/listtype/list
probably not the greatest, but good for 1u and would be fine for stereo bus GR i rekon.
what are people using???
its like bloody Royston Vasey here
Tandy (radioshack?) closed about 12 years ago nearest is maplin 25 miles away but they mostly stock cheap plastic bubble machines, overpriced LED torches and consumer DVD players
its all gone to $H!t I tell thee!
also, just missed out in the blackmarket but found beh meters here
http://pms-electronics.com/shop1/oxid.php/sid/4ee1229c2b671514792b46dc6020c0fa/cl/details/anid/4407691d60fee8.89605405/tpl/-/lang/1/listtype/list
probably not the greatest, but good for 1u and would be fine for stereo bus GR i rekon.
what are people using???
snipsnip
Well-known member
snipsnip said:
hey man - can you please confirm the max torroid height for the parmetal chassis?
ruckus328
Well-known member
Well, parmetal chassis is 1.42" high. I can't say exactly how tall a transformer you can use as the mounting hardware for them will add some height, and every one's different, so go with something that gives you some wiggle room. The ones I'm using are 32mm tall and with the mounting hardware they just fit.
sheadstedford
Well-known member
That is real nice man! Feeling the colour scheme!!!!
jandoste
Well-known member
skot_e said:"Special Delivery"
Time for a mock up:
Pics dont include the LED power light or the bar graph but you get the idea. I'm pretty happy with how it looks. ;D
Congrats ! Nice build !
Cheers,
sheadstedford
Well-known member
Just got my srpp booster--------------she gonna go in somehow
Hi All,
In response to TZman sending me a PM, I figured I would make available to the wider group the front panel for FPE (have returned to generic SB4000 labeling).
I used the original file provided by Mike and then added the text. The dimension for this file are to fit collective cases provide by Dan. With some adjustment to the mounting holes you can use this template to fit the other manufactures.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/za8c62am31mza51/sb4000%20collective%20cases%20upload.fpd
In response to TZman sending me a PM, I figured I would make available to the wider group the front panel for FPE (have returned to generic SB4000 labeling).
I used the original file provided by Mike and then added the text. The dimension for this file are to fit collective cases provide by Dan. With some adjustment to the mounting holes you can use this template to fit the other manufactures.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/za8c62am31mza51/sb4000%20collective%20cases%20upload.fpd
Cant wait for these to be back in stock...
:'(
:'(
ruckus328
Well-known member
Guys, I have to make this super quick. Wife's water just broke and she's at the hospital, I just ran home to grab a few things for her. I will probably be at the hospital until Saturday-ish, so communication will be limited between now and then.
I think everyone who had questions has been answered, there's a few people who's emails I still haven't gotten back to, I will try to answer via blackberry if I can, if not I will get back to you this weekend.
IMPORTANT, PLEASE READ:
I have just uploaded a revised Assembly Document (Rev 2 Doc). Everyone please download it. I'm hate to have to say it, but unfortunately a small issue with the Rev 4 boards was just discovered (big thanks to Harpo for noticing it), luckily it's a very simple fix and only takes a couple minutes. There's an error on the original GSSL schematic that I didn't catch, in turn the error made it's way onto the SB4000. It's my fault for not catching it though. In short - the unit is reversing phase when the compressor is engaged. Since this is for the most part a transparent issue, it never came up during prototyping. It can be fixed by just swapping the ends of 2 pairs of resistors. A more in-depth explanation and a hi res photo are in the build doc.
Calibration instructions have also been added at the end of the Assembly Doc. I did a quick double check and everything looked right, but if anyone notices anything strange please let me know (again, in a hurry).
I think everyone who had questions has been answered, there's a few people who's emails I still haven't gotten back to, I will try to answer via blackberry if I can, if not I will get back to you this weekend.
IMPORTANT, PLEASE READ:
I have just uploaded a revised Assembly Document (Rev 2 Doc). Everyone please download it. I'm hate to have to say it, but unfortunately a small issue with the Rev 4 boards was just discovered (big thanks to Harpo for noticing it), luckily it's a very simple fix and only takes a couple minutes. There's an error on the original GSSL schematic that I didn't catch, in turn the error made it's way onto the SB4000. It's my fault for not catching it though. In short - the unit is reversing phase when the compressor is engaged. Since this is for the most part a transparent issue, it never came up during prototyping. It can be fixed by just swapping the ends of 2 pairs of resistors. A more in-depth explanation and a hi res photo are in the build doc.
Calibration instructions have also been added at the end of the Assembly Doc. I did a quick double check and everything looked right, but if anyone notices anything strange please let me know (again, in a hurry).
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